I have purchased a reproduction bearing brass fan hub with steel blades, where these are to be attached with steel rivets. My concern is that the back bucking bar could mar the brass hub if not held perpendicular. I have the standard bucking bars to shape the rivets, however, the geometry of the hub makes it impossible to locate this straight bucking bar perpendicular to the back of the hub. Is there a dedicated tool required...how have others been able to support the rivets from this back side? Also curious whether these rivets are installed cold or heated at installation?
There is a tool available at farm stores used for setting rivets in sickle bar mowers or combines. It is basically a C clamp that has a bolt with a hollow ended end that will round the rivet over. There are several on ebay now.
Here is one:
Many thanks Herb.
I didn't know there was such a thing. We have discussed riveting on this forum several times but this tool has never been mentioned. How does it work? Does it tighten and round off the rivet just by turning the bolt head? Does one need to heat the rivet first? Is it for a specific size rivet?
I have several of these tools., and I have mentioned it in at least two riveting threads in the past.
The tool works in two ways. You first on some models that have two sides clamp the end with a hollow bolt and a hole in the foot of the clamp over the head of the existing rivet. Then you squeeze the hollow bolt down around the head of the rivet. The hollow bolt is threaded on the inside so that you are able to screw another pin down through the hollow bolt that drives out the old rivet. You need to be careful her because you can break the pin and will need to replace it. You could chisel off he old head to make it easier.
Now to use the tool to set a rivet you would turn it around to the other side which is also C clamp looking. This clamp has a shallow depression in the foot of the C clamp that is placed under the factory head of the rivet and the bolt has a depression that is turned down on the plain end of the rivet. The pressure from the bolt will create a perfect (With practice) looking head on the other side of the rivet and you are done! Well not really you still might have twenty feet of a combine sickle to replace sections in!
Today sickle sections are put on with self locking nuts on special bolts. These tools are still available at farm stores and at auctions.
I will see if I can find a photo of the two sided one that also takes out the rivets.
Here's a new one:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Sickle-Bar-Mower-Repair-Kit-for-John-Deere-5-8-9-38- 39-350-450-and-Ford-MF-/151089589714?pt=US_Heavy_Equipment_Attachments&hash=item 232da42dd2
There are used ones on ebay for around fifty dollars, but they did not have the instructions.
Send it to me and I will rivet it for you.
Scott, I just installed a new hub on the 09 with the original blades, the rivets that came out of the original fan were copper but I used the repo (steel) ones that I bought with the new hub. If I was to do it over I would have found new copper ones. I put the rivets in from the inside out and used a piece of steel 1/2"X1"X8" and laid it on my vice jaws which were opened about 5". I used a rivet gun with a a rivet set, I put in three small bolts and one rivet, bucked it then remover another bolt and installed another rivet and set it and so on and so forth. It took a while but when I was done it looked good however I still had about three places where I marked the new hub I should have put some layers of tape around the hub, hind sight is always 20-20. Good luck Steve
The correct tool for installing rivets is a rivet gun. Bucking bars can be clamped in a vice to make it a one man job. I also have some rivet sets that can be inserted into a bucking bar that are shaped like a rivet head. Using that system it is possible to "shoot the tail" and make both head and tail round if that is the desired result.