Wiring question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Wiring question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 02:14 pm:

Hey guys...

Newbie doing a complete restore -16 touring with Starter.. Now re-wiringÖ

There is a wire that runs directly from the battery to the battery terminal on the coil box, correct? What gauge wire does this need to be?
Thanks so much!

Iíll send photos before cranking it up! Getting closer!

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 07:57 pm:

Correct!

16 guage is adequate for battery power to the coils.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 08:21 pm:


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 08:23 pm:

Michael:

At the factory Ford never put a wire there since he forbid anyone to mention a battery being used in a T until 1919. As Royce said, 16 gauge is what Ford used for just about everything including timer wires but if you are using a full size battery and intend to wire the headlights to that battery then I would use a heavier wire like a #14 or #12 since the headlight switch is right next to that battery terminal and you can then wire from that battery connection on the coil box to the light switch nearby. Technically 15/17 had magneto lights without a dimmer coil but if you have a full size car battery then you should consider using battery powered lights since they are brighter and more dependable and thus safer. Just my .02


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, August 09, 2013 - 09:46 pm:

My comment is strictly for wire to power the coils from battery. I assume the battery will only be used for starting, and that the coils would normally be powered by the magneto.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 06:26 am:

Thanks so much everyone. That all makes sense.

There is an extra black wire (along with the 4 regular wires)in the harness that goes from the coil box to the commutator.

Not sure what it is for, but it's a new harness I purchased from one of the vendors and it's included.

I was just going to use it from the headlight switch to the right headlight, and from there to the left headlight. Is that a good plan?

Also, would any of you have at hand a quick photo of the firewall 1916 ish, so i can see where to position the little mounting clips. I'd like to keep it neat and, of course, correct.

Also if you happen to have one that shows how the harness runs along and is fixed to the frame in the engine compartment, that would be a big help.

You guys are great! Thanks again.

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 08:29 am:

This shows original 1916 wiring except the timer / headlight loom is new. You can see placement of the original cushion loops used to secure the wiring. The headlight wire is disconnected from the switch but routed correctly.

The battery wire shown was added by someone other than Ford.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 08:49 am:

Thanks Royce.....So, that wire in the upper left of your photo that is not connected to anything is the headlight wire, correct?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 09:20 am:

There were 2 clips along the side of the engine compartment that were sandwiched between the wood hood clash strips and the frame. Oddly enough I make those to the factory drawings if they are gone or broken on your car.

Also you can see in the picture that there is a wire from the magneto to the light switch. That was for magneto lights. The "battery" wire was not factory and you can see it has a different staple (no insulation) and is heading to wherever the added battery is located. My suggestion was that if you drive at night - be safe and use battery powered lights which would be available from the other side of the coil box at the same connection as the extra "battery" wire. The additional wire in your timer loom was in fact for the headlights and it was wired exactly as you surmised namely the wire went from the headlight switch to the right front headlight and then crossed over via the radiator wire tube to the left side headlight and then to a ground on the radiator stiffening brace but I would choose a different ground spot since the radiator is not a good ground being mounted in leather and attached to the engine with rubber hose.

The wiring clips that I mentioned are part number 5033 and the brass era ones are straight which is what we make. They keep the wiring harness from hanging down and laying on top of the motor to frame side pans which often are not there. Click on my name to send me a PM if you need more info.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eyssen - Abilene TX on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 02:44 pm:

Love the spark plug "wires".-- "Whatever works!!!"


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Garnet on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 03:29 pm:

Tim, these are the proper spark plug wires for driving in rural areas!

Garnet


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Eyssen - Abilene TX on Saturday, August 10, 2013 - 10:55 pm:

Garnet: I have a parade "junk truck" that utilizes the same type wires sometimes. When I use them, I try to find several types for a little variety. (Grin)


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