How can a leak be repaired on a differential without removing the rear-end assembly from the car and rebuilding it?
Exactly where is the leak?
Can you supply a photo?
Are the housing and pinion bolts tight ?
Ron's PM :
"Thanks Bob for returning my message.
The leak is coming directly from the bottom of the Differential on my 1914 Roadster. I'm looking for an easy fix to stop the 600w oil from leaking. It's not overfilled and all the bolts are tight. Years ago I cured my 1912 of the problem by loosening the differential bolts and letting all the oil drain out without removing the assembly Then I slightly jacked up an axle enough where an approx. I/8th" separation occurred. I then cut some thin seal material, covered it with a sealer , slipped it in and tightened up the bolts. The next day after the sealer hardened, I installed oil. This seemed to have worked but I feel there must be a better way....Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Do you know if the differential had been rebuilt anytime in the recent past ?
I would remove and completely disassemble, check everything.
Well I have the same issue to deal with on my '12 roadster pickup. And since I don't know the previous maintenance history on it, am also wondering if maybe this axle though, does have the bronze thrust washers. I've read where supposedly the early 12's did have them, then about half way through the model year Ford switched to the babbit washers. I really don't feel like pulling this thing to check, but it does have the leak, and curiosity of course has the better of me. There is virtually no play on the axles when you yank on the wheels though, so that seems to be good. The eng. number is 90,+++ which supposedly makes it around Dec. 1911 build, body tag number is only a few past the engine number.
Anyone want to weigh in on their thoughts/knowledge of the washers being bronze for that build number?
The washers would not make it leak, but they can fail quickly and unexpectedly. When they fail you could lose your brakes or ability to go forward or backward with the engine. If you have never had it apart, it would be a very good idea to at least pull it apart and check the washers and replace if needed. While it's apart follow the instructions in the book Rear Axle. Check all parts and clearances and replace or adjust everything according to spec. When you re-assemble use gasket sealer on mating surfaces whether or not you use a gasket. Fill to proper level. While it's apart, replace axle seals too.
Most axles which drip will drip from the center back because that is the lowest part. You need to trace the source, because it could be comming from around the rivits, or from the driveshaft spool and still drip right in the center. Another place where leaks occur is at the ends of the axles, but in that case the grease will be on the wheels.