Got the engine out of the T and started dismantling...Obvious why compression was low...time to clean, rings, etc...
Couple of questions....(new T owner but have done other cars)
1. Noticed ridges in drum (see pic). Need to replace or can I run it like this?
2. Noticed bands had brass showing, is that normal?
3. On my other cars, I've done all the work except rebuilding block...this one I want to do. How do I determine if I need new valve seats? None of them sink into the block but one is almost "flat/level" with block.
Adding another pic of the drums
Get rid of those two piece valves stat .
Rowland, the bands need to be relined. The grooves in the brake drum are caused by the exposed rivets. As long as the grooves are not sharp or too deep and the drum is not cracked it's fine. Also, as George said replace those valves. The heads like to pop off.
I would make sure they are two peice valves. scrape (aggressively) the carbon off the top of the valves. If these are still 2 piece then you will see a place where the stem passes through the cap of the valve and is bradded over. Just because it has two holes does not mean it is two piece. I had aftermarket one piece valves with two holes in my engine when i got it but had to replace them due to to much play. I would remove the pins, retainers and springs and pick them out of the block about an inch. If you have much clearance at all you need to ream out the guides and get oversize valves. I have no idea on the drum... but if your taking it apart anyway to check bushings and your clutch pack (i would suggest this) then you might want to go ahead and replace it. although it is true that trannys get louder when you start to mix and match parts from other trannys. for this reason you may want to keep it. Im not sure what more experienced voices will say on this. Im only passing along old wisdom. I have very little T wisdom of my own. Needless to say you are going to have a flood of questions and suggestions. Oh! also make sure your internal oil line is open!
Before you pull the pistons, try rocking them back and forth when at the top. If they rock quite a bit, it will need reboring with oversize pistons. Mark all the parts as you take it apart so that the pistons and rods go into the same location where they were removed. The rods are usually marked with a number either a number stamped or file marks. The marks should be on the side of the rod facing the camshaft. The cap and the rod numbers should be together so the caps are not backward. If there are any shims in the bearings put them in the same order as removed and put the cap back on. The main caps should be marked 1 & 2. I put the mark toward the front of the engine. But if there are already marks, remember which direction they were and place all shims in the same order when removing.
After you get everything apart, you can decide whether the crankshaft needs to be turned. Use the dimensions listed in the book for taper and out of round for cylinders and crankshaft. If it is within the tolerances for reuse, then it will only need cylinders honed and same pistons replaced in the same cylinder with new rings. Order rings std, or oversize depending on the size of the bore. If the babbitt looks good and the crankshaft is within tolerance, all you need to do is remove enough shims to get 1.5 thousandths clearance of the bearings. If the babbitt looks bad or if the crankshaft is too flat or tapered, turn the shaft and re-babbitt all the bearings. Check the endplay of the crankshaft. If it is too much the rear cap needs to be replaced or repaired. See posts on correcting crankshaft endplay. As you remove the pistons look at the wear pattern. It is normal to see some scuffing on the sides of the piston skirts perpendicular to the crankshaft, but if you see wear on one side below the wristpin and on the other side above the wristpin, it indicates the rod is bent and should be straightened before reusing. The wrist pins should not be loose enough to knock, but loose enough to move very easily back and forth. When removing or replacing the bolts at the wristpin end of the rod, put a large screwdriver through the wrist pin then use a socket wrench to remove or tighten the bolt. Do not clamp the rod in a vise to perform this job, or you will very likely twist the rod. The wrist pin bolts should be locked in place with a cotter pin. If you use wire be sure to use heavy enough wire that it won't break off and fall in the crankcase. I prefer the cotter pins. You can bend one leg of the cotter against the rod so the bolt won't turn. The wrist pin bolts should face the camshaft, and the slot in the piston away from the camshaft. New timing gears should be placed on both the crankshaft and camshaft, especially if a fiber gear was on the camshaft. I personally don't trust fiber gears. Aluminum or bronze are better. Steel is strong, but more likely to be noisy. When you place the rings on the pistons stagger the ends so they don't line up with each other or with the end of the wrist pin for better oil control and compression.
On the transmission, the heads of the rivits should be perpendicular to the band, as shown in the picture. They should be punched into the band. Start at both ends to place the band lining leaving a loop in the middle so that when you force it into place the material will be tight against the steel. The lining should not be started at one end and worked to the other or you will have lining away from the band between rivits. Check the top of the block and the bottom of the head with a straightedge to determing whether it is warped. If it is, mill off until smooth. When you place the head on the block, clean out the threads with a bottoming tap and blow out with air. Then try on without a gasket to see if all the bolts can be tightened all the way to the head. If any are too long, they should be ground off to shorten. Then put the gasket in and torque starting with the center and working outward from end to end and side to side. First torque about 20 ft lbs then go around again to 30 ft lbs then 40 and finally 50. Then warm up the engine and if you have an aluminum head let it cool completely and re-torque. If the head is steel, re-torque when hot. Let the car cool down. Then drive it a while and re torque again following the above proceedure. Do this several times after you drive the car. When it stays at 50 ft lbs, you don't need to torque again. Change the oil after about 100 miles. Don't let the car overheat right after the work has been done. They tend to run a bit hotter until things wear in. You will also need to adjust the bands a few times until they settle in. Don't over tighten the bands. The car should roll when the parking lever is in the neutral position the car should roll without turning the engine, and when you turn the crank when in the neutral position, the car should not roll.
There is probably much more to say, but I am tired of writing and someone else can think of other things to do.
Good luck with your work. I have one in the garage right now which I am doing the same to.
I am also working on a 24 motor, Rowland make sure your pan is strait if not it will leak REALLY bad .Post some more pictures so we can help you along the way as for the valve seats, you better put them in. Stainless valves slamming into a cast iron seat is not the best thing
I don't intend to be argumentative, but I wouldn't put in new valve seats unless some are cracked. I would replace the valves however, as everyone else suggests. I'd also suggest having the top of the block milled a few thou to insure that it's flat. That will have the effect of raising the valves a bit. Mill the head flat too, so you get a good seal on the head gasket.
If the valve head is level with the top of the block, you need to go to a valve with an oversized head or install valve seats. The Model T did not have valve seats originally, but many of us install them when rebuilding to extend the time between valve jobs. I personally prefer to use Chevy 350 exhaust valves which require the valve guides be reamed a little larger. They are often worn anyway, so not that much of an issue. If you want to stay Ford, I believe it is 351 valves that work.
Totally clean and magnaflux the block first to identify cracks that may need repair or might not be worth repairing.
As a know-nothing newbie, I wouldn't dream of overhauling an engine myself, but were I having it done, based on what I think I've learned from lurking around the forum for a few years:
Use aluminum pistons. According to brass car guru, Harold Sharon, that will take a lot of stress off the crankshaft, which is the engine's Achilles' Heel. If you don't already have lightweight connecting rods, you'll want to get a set.
A new crankshafts would be expensive, but because the original-type Model T crankshaft isn't beefy enough to begin with and is not counter-balanced, I'd be looking for any excuse to replace it with a new, counter-balanced Scat crankshaft. According to what I've read here on the forum, nobody has ever broken a Scat and that's extremely significant. If you don't have worry about your crankshaft breaking, you don't have to be timid about putting some power through it. Mine is an original Ford type and though I have a high-compression head and a few other performance parts, I'm very timid about opening the throttle or lugging the engine in high-gear, uphill. In our world of traffic-jamming with modern cars, you need every performance advantage you can get.
Depending on how much originality means to you and whether you trust your crankshaft, consider switching to a high-compression head and larger intake manifold (if you don't already have these items). Mike and magnaflux everything.
Pay attention to the area where the seal runs at the front of the engine. Along with all of the other considerations on a crankshaft, look for pitting in area of the seal. THEN, when you go back together, before you put the crank in the block, mount the crankshaft fan pulley. Check, in a lathe, to see if the pulley is running true. If not, you can trim it a little. It makes for a lot less problems if you do it up front as opposed to waiting after it is all together.
Rowland, I found an nos block for my T, I built the engine and since it was NOS I chose not to install hardened seat, since then I wish I had since the stainless valves are hard and they pound in to the soft T block, I run my car a lot so once a year I now have to set my valves. Wish I would of installed them now! Just my thoughts. Joe