16 touring ground up restoration.
I went to put on my new brass radiator today and it's not lining up. Also, shouldn't there be more space between the couplings for the rubber hose?
With the old frame, there was a broken front cross memeber that I replaced.
I bet Steve Jelf wishes his lined up that good.
It looks like the frame is sagging on the right rear. If that point is raised, it will slightly raise the front of the block and move to the left. When you get ready to install the hose, take off the fitting from the front of the head and put the hose on without clamps, then bolt the fitting and gasket to the head. Lastly clamp the hoses. You might also shim up the left front of the radiator. Are you going to put a body and hood on this car? You need to fit the hood to the radiator and body, to get the final adjustment. If the hood also misfits, you will know that the frame is crooked or that the radiator itself is crooked.
That's not enough misalignment to worry about. Hook up the hose to the radiator snout and the unbolted water outlet on the heads. Then bolt it up. The flex of the hose will accommodate the minor misalignment. When the hose is in place you won't notice the misalignment as much. I have had worse and simply did what I suggest with no problems.
Forgot to add. Use plenty of sealant.
It might be a good time to replace the outlet? Bud.
Looks good to me. Put it together and forget about as R. Gould says.
Ford would not have worried about it on the assembly line.
I was talking about the outlet on the head and i doubt if Ford would have used rusted out junk?
Seems to be the norm with re-pops anyway. Got one on my '12 that I transferred over from my '15 and was just like that. Same thing with my new rad for my '30 Model A. Not any worse than yours, ya just deal with it. Have a new Brassworks for the '15 but I'm waiting for an engine rebuild, and I'll put money on having the exact same issue as I've had before and you're having with this one too.
What type of sealant, and where???
Hal read my mind. I wish mine was this close.
When you assembled things after replacing the front cross member, you probably got the clip about 1/8" off to the right. If you loosen the nuts and move it left to line up the front of the engine with the radiator, I think you'll be OK.
Thanks Steve...I was thinking that.
What sort of sealer do I need to use? And, where?
I had quite a bit of trouble sealing my old radiator fitting to the radiator hose. What I finally wound up doing was cutting a one inch piece of bicycle inner tube and stretching one around the radiator neck and one around the head outlet, This works beautifully as the bicycle inner tube acts like the soft gasket. A little vaseline lets the radiator hose slip over the new gaskets easily. No sealants necessary.
This was not my idea I saw it posted on the forum I just don't remember who to give the credit to.
I had a new snout soldered onto mine by a rad shop. It was misaligned just like the one Richard posted pictures of and the pipe was a bit too big as well. It all worked out fine. Those red rad hoses are very forgiving.
I use RTV gasket sealer/maker on the hose fittings that are pitted. Seals the hose mounting surfaces good, but it's still easy to remove the hoses. Works great for me. Dave
For sealant, I use Permatex number 2. I always use Permatex number two. I use it for gaskets, I use it for fuel lines, I use it for radiator hoses. I have used it for fifty years and like how it works, so see no reason to change.
Just thought I would answer as the question was re-asked.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2