Ok,I have finally gotten over my stomach bug that has kept me bed ridden part of the time for the past 2.5 weeks.
I have read on here of course but aint said much.
Trying to catch up on fire wood cutting and get my dads truck fixed.
But in the mean time it dawned on me while under my dads truck pulling the fuel tank,"why is it that T owners accross the world put on multivalve heads,different carbs and ignition systems and so on,but still sand blast the top end of their engines because they aint running a air filter??
As some old fellow used to ask on tv,"why is that"?
An air filter is not correct.
I have always used air filters.
I love the foam one I got from Lang's. Sure, it didn't come from the factory that way, but it makes me feel much better to use it.
If an air filter is not correct, neither is modern oil, and by no means, the show quality finish one sees on many restored cars. The only major flaw in the T design is the lack of air filter, running one with out is foolish unless you want extra maintenance cost.
If you drive on modern paved roads there is likely little benefit to using an air filter. If you drive on dusty roads an air filter may be a benefit but it will also interfere with the use of a hot air pipe that some find useful in some conditions.
I've thought about air cleaners for my T's for a while.
If I were to add them I'd adapt one of these as used on Model A's.
I got one like this with the metal filter for my '29 A.
Anyone know of a suitable one that will work with a Holley vaporizer. I've seen a picture of one, but don't know what they used.
That was the basis for mine, Craig, except instead of the maze, I bought a K&N.
I don't know the first car to use an air filter, but I think it was late in the T era. Dunno why they didn't think to use them.
Most of my driving is on pavement, but it takes only one gravel road with microscopic pulverized rocks to eat at the rings.
And I would like to find a paper air filter that would fit on my Kingston L2. Any suggestions?
Go to Daves Discount Motore, look at GoPed filters..
Can't find an edit button
Posting here is like speaking, Ralph. You can't retract any words.
Good deal Ricks.......
The trouble with the paper filters some use is sooner or later (I ALWAYS bet on sooner) you can't get replacement filters.......can't happen with metal.
I use this version of filter sold by some of the T parts vendors. It is spring loaded and fits between the carburetor and hogshead, can be removed and installed in seconds. I spent too much time and money rebuilding my current Model T and a air filter is a "must" for me.
PS- Last time I checked the replacement paper filter for the unit pictured above can be bought locally from your auto parts store as ”Mr. Gasket” # 1489A
A friend using a Holley NH carb only got 5 miles out of town before his engine iced up and quit, on a recent Tennessee tour.
A guy name George, from Florida, had a 1914 on the same tour, with no air cleaner or hot air pipe installed and loaned my friend the hot air pipe that had always been stashed under his seat.
George said he never needed that hot air pipe and he had never installed it, as his T always ran great. Royce also said the hot air pipe was not required and his T runs great without one.
I'm still trying to determine what carb George is using, as evidently some carbs need that hot air pipe a lot more than others and more than they need an air filter.
My friend put a hot air pipe on when he got home and found his T ran great again and climbed hills in high, even some that he used to have trouble getting to the top in low.
We had a lady driving a nice tudor on the Texas T party tour last year that kept having the car quit in the most inopportune times, like right in the middle of a six lane divided parkway with a 45 MPH speed limit. Her car had a K&N filter sock designed for a motorcycle. There was a lot of troubleshooting including her borrowing an NH from me for the final three days of the tour, which worked fine without a hot air pipe or a filter sock.
Air Filter = choke. Use the carb stove. paul
That aluminum tube between my aircleaner and carb bowl is to equalize any pressure difference caused by possible air cleaner restriction. A good air cleaner is not restrictive enough to notice.
Any reason you couldn't pack the hot air pipe loosely with fiberglass?
Vince,you brought up a similar idea to what I had.
I was thinking of useing some material from a small engine filter cut to fit in the round tube of the hot air pipe.Clean often.
I just feel like a filter of some type would be better than spending 1000's on a engine job only to wear it out in short order with dirty air.
I drive my more modern stuff on paved roads but the air filters do get clogged with something.That same something is getting sucked right into the poor little T's engine.
Here's a Cyclonic air cleaner with a spinning vain I run on our 15 Roadster pickup and It works just fine.
Jay, you're in good company. The Boeing 767 and newer use the same principle for filtering cooling air going to the big $$$$ avionics.
there are some regions where an air filter is not as important as it is in Idaho. When Mt St. Helens blew in 80, there were reports on the telly about how many car engines were ruined by the abrasive ash. I could not understand how that could be if the people properly maintained their air filters. The soil in southern Idaho is volcanic silica and very abrasive, most of my driving is on dirt or gravel roads, with out an air filter, I would expect to be able to drive 10 or 20 miles before the power loss from engine wear far exceeded power loss from air flow restriction.
Model T engines suffer quite a bit from grit—much more so than would be the case with modern engines. In a practical sense, there's no way to add an oil filter (else they'd be in Lang's catalog), so we're pretty much stuck with oil that gets dirty quick.
But when it comes to ingesting airborne grit, we have a choice and the easiest solution is this cheapie foam filter:
This filter will fit where others won't. The only possible disadvantage I can think of would be that in the case of a leaky carburetor, the foam would absorb gasoline like a sponge and you'd have a fire hazard. Then again, a fuel leak is a fire hazard with or without a filter.
Foam filters are available here:
This is the type of filter I use, it is easy to service, and instal, if a person wants to display the car with out a filter, it is easy to remove. An air filter should not be a problem with a leaky carb, as the leaky carb is the problem not the filter, and as you stated, the leaky carb is a hazard filter or not.
As far as the filter not being correct and original, neither is modern anti-freeze, good quality gasoline ect.
@ Vince M......do you really want GLASS particles running through your engine?
No Craig. Of course I don't want glass particles running through my engine. Maybe you could have said it like this: "Hey vince - fiberglass packing may break loose and get into your engine and cause problems."
Just like I could say - "Hey Craig, I appreciate the feedback. Maybe steel wool would be a better choice"
Or....I could say - Hey craig you arrogant SOB, why don't you keep your stupid backhanded insults to yourself."
See! gets a totally different reaction.
Has anyone run one of Lang's foam filter with an L-4 carburetor?
Having just recently gotten the car running properly (with a lot of help from forum members), I'm a little skittish about no using the hot air pipe.
However, if anyone HAS used the Lang's foam filter with an L-4, let me know it's worked for you.
Vince........glass particles will loosen and get into your engine.......
Does anyone know of one that can be adapted easily to a vaporizer. I recently saw a picture of a T having one very recently on the Forum, but the discussion was about something else, not air filters.
While on this subject, everyone has his right to restore or modify his T as suits his wants and needs. Some people on the Forum need to "lighten up". If you have or want a restored show car that belongs in Greenfield Village; great. I like seeing authentic restored cars and in fact am in the process of doing the best authentic restoration on my grandfather's 27 coupe as possible; but I also have a 26 Fordor sedan that from the outside, looks completely authentic; but on tours will be safer and more powerful than most. To criticize someone for not "correctly" restoring their T isn't needed on the Forum. If you don't want to run an air filter, fine. My only wish, for those that believe a owner can't have fun with his T, is that you get caught in a blinding desert dust storm while driving and when you have to rebuild your engine, I'll be smiling.
Thanks Craig. Actually never knew that.
Terry, I built mine from a film can and aluminum tube. It's open on the bottom and I use foam mesh for a filter and spray with an oil mist if running on a dirt road for very long.
Certainly won't have any trouble finding the color I want !!
Have you tried these on your T? Sure would be a simple answer.
Best thing for a filter is steel wool. You can stuff our hot air pipe loosely with it and spray a little wd-40 or motor oil in it then periodically wash it out backwards with hot soapy water.
I have several engines I do this with and sure enough it works awesome!
I have an engine on a little tractor that I fixed a J shaped pipe on it. Drilled a hole on the inside of the J for an overflow hole and pour motor oil in til it runs out. The base of the J and 3" up the tall side is steel wool.
Ideally I think I'd want a cleaner mounted near the fan with some type of "funnel to take advantage of all the high velocity air. Kina like a cheap turbo charger......zoom zoom zoom.......
My vaporizer AC. I used Gary Whites design for the part that slips over the choke housing. My parts are a copper 1 1/2" to 11/4" reducing coupling, two copper 1 1/4" st el's , a bail that retains a gas sediment bowl, an o ring, and a paper pleated filter that is used on 20hp BS engines (John Deere also carries this filter). I cut off some of the coppers 1 1/2" length and notched the rest to fit up over the choke housing. I positioned the first st el inside that fitting leaving enough room for the O ring between the diameters. Soldered these 2 together then added 2nd st el. The air cleaner is a friction fit over the st el. It seems to stay in place without any retainer. The whole assembly is held up to the choke housing with the bail mentioned above with the thumb screw tightened on top of the choke housing body. I haven't found it necessary to make any operational mixture adjustments. Sorry, don't know how to move iPhone picture to here.
My car runs just fine with the hot air pipe It makes it easier to start because I have a strait through NH carb hooked up Its also on because my Grandpa told me to put one on. As long as it works its fine with me
Gary, where can someone find an old film can? They've got to be rarer than some Model T parts.
A friend who was a great collector of all things, mostly 30-40s auto parts, automobilia, and service station equipment, gave me about a dozen he had picked up at a yard sale or auction. Sadly he passed last year. His favorite saying was "I've got it someplace if I could only find it."