Several moths back, when replacing outer seals, I noticed the terrible condition of the drums. Couple of deep dents that looked like they were hammered out to work by prev. restorer. Interesting note, the studs have a little tack weld to keep the studs from turning inside the drums.
So, I'm going to have to have the studs pressed out to remove old drums.
Can modern studs be used to reassemble hub/drum ?
Or would orig style studs be better with swedging ?
if they are swedged, do not press them out untill you cut the shoulder that was swedged. if they tack welded them, they may not have done the swedging, look to see if the thread side has a countersunk hole still showing around the stud. just buy the rite studs, and the tool from model a vendors, its cheep and easy. but, do not try to press them out if swedged without drilling off the swedge or you will warp the hub. dont ask how i know this...
Thanks Clay, I was thinking the weld meant non swedged also. Funny thing is, the swedge cutter costs more then all the studs. Guess I'll call a T guy and see if he has the cutter and stuff.
Geo. n L.A.
George, is there room to use a Dremel tool or something similar to cut the welds loose? I bought a swedging tool to use with a press to replace the front hub studs on mine. If I can find it, and you need to borrow, let me know. Everyone makes a "typo" mistake and I'm no exception, but I'm curious, how many "moths" ago did you do the rear seals?
Thanks T. One of the welds came loose and the stud won't tighten, so I'm going to redo all ten on the back. Then I'll do the fronts. I just don't have access to a 40ton press. I'll be checking resources tomorrow. Thanks again buddy. Geo.
Time for a stupid question,what is swedging?Are Model T hubs all swedged?
Swedging is deforming the the metal around the the lug bolt hole so that the it clamps the bolt in place.
Here is a swedging tool from:
I believe only wire wheel hubs use swedging to hold the lug bolts in place.
Thanks Jim,when I removed my lug bolts they were just tack welded to the drums. I carefully pressed them off.
George, you should be able to find someone with a press in LA (every machine shop has one). If not, I acquired a press this year from the estate of a local mechanic. Send me your hubs and I'll do 'em for you. It would be cheaper than me sending the press to you. Jez, I can barely lift the press with a HD furniture dollie.
I purchased one of the above swedging tools. It was too small and would have destroyed the threads on the studs. I do not know who designed it, but it is certainly the wrong size.
I have the same tool from Snyder's, Dave and recently replaced all 10 studs in a set of front wire hubs - worked O.K.
Geo.Harrison must of had the same thing as me. I'm wondering, Mine must have been swedged a little bit. I would think that the weld kept them from rotating, If the where spotwelded, I would have thought that the hub would just slip of the studs and drum.
I may have this wrong, having limited experience with Ford wire wheels, but there is a tab pressed into the drum to engage with a flat on the head of the stud to stop it turning, right? This serves the same purpose as the fine splines on modern studs.
Then the plain shank on the stud is swaged to stop the stud falling back through the drum. It would be better if the swaging made the stud tight but as long as the stud stayed in place, would not that do?
Hope you can help.
Allan from down under.
Yes, you're right, Allan. The swaging doesn't need to be strong enough to keep the stud from turning, just to keep it from falling out when the nut (and wheel) is off. I used a little tack weld on each, since I haven't got a strong enough press.
Roger saw that space od the front hubs, but not on the rear. I've got new parts and drums ordered yesterday and will start procedure when they arrive, I'll keep posted.
Thanks Terry,Jim, Allen, Steve T., Dave, George H., Jim, Clay.
George n L.A.