I just put Rocky Mountain brakes on my T. I just realized this issue. When I set the hand/parking brake it pushes the pedal down to engage the brakes, which in turn, activates the brake light.
I'm at a loss on how to deal with this. We're going on a tour this week and I don't want to forget about it and kill my battery at a stop or overnight.
Steve - I had the same problem once. You can do one of two things. Either wire the brake light through the ignition switch so it only comes on when the switch is on, or get what's known as a "slider" that allows your foot brake lever to be off when the hand brake is on. The vendors carry the "slider".
Is there a way to feed the "hot" side of the switch through the ignition so it just shuts off when I turn the car off? What wire should i slice into if this would work?
oops Didn't see your post when I asked. Where did you splice into it? I've never gotten into the wiring so I don't know what's what's.
Wiring off the ignition switch may not work as you wish. The only switched side of the ignition can be off, on BAT or on MAG. The bulb will blow the first time you hit the brake if running on MAG. The only alternative would be the tail light circuit. This would mean the brake light would work only when the lights are on.
my car won't run on mag-only at this time. That being said....what can I safely splice into (assuming I fuse it)?
You can use the center post off the ignition switch or the feed post on the coil box. The post on the coil box would be more accessible. It could also be a reminder to remove it if/when your mag is working.
I know this is a crude solution but I had the same problem which I solved it with wheel chocks. I just don't use the emergency brake for parking. I didn't really trust it anyhow, so it was no big deal for me.
Steve -- This part will fix your problem:
Here are the reasons why I respectfully disagree with Mr. Regan's position against battery-disconnect switches:
Aside from the fire-safety issue (about which he's probably right, because he's the engineer and I'm not), my battery-disconnect switch allows me to park my Rocky Mountain Brake-equipped car without running down the battery.
Then, the hidden switch is a theft-deterrent, which I'll admit isn't really necessary because 99.9% of car thieves don't know how to start and drive a Model T Fordóbut the theft-deterrent credit I get from my insurance company is real and, though not large, did pay for the switch. Does circular logic count?
And this one is important: When I'm at a show and families are posing for photos in my car, I sure as heck don't want it to frighten some little shaver who accidentally steps on the starter button.
For the Kanab tour I rigged up tail, stop, directional lights to a small "switch box" that resides on my front seat. (26 touring) All wiring, including the brake lights, enter through a 20 A fuse then thru a master on/off switch. When the ride is over, off goes the master switch and everything is doused. It cost me about $70 including the lights. For the break switch I used a universal motorcycle NO pull switch. Works great.
You might not have time to get it before the tour, but the Fun Projects brake light switch works great with the Rockys.
Thanks for all the input and suggestions. Considering I have no time to order parts or redo much... I'm going to just wire it into the ignition side or put a shut off switch on it. I'll probably get the slide or a different switch at a later date.
Just don't forget to turn the switch on when driving if you use a switch.
If a disconnect switch is only used in the "open" position then I agree it has all the advantages you state for that one position since they are all pretty reliable when used only in that position.
About three years ago I rigged a stoplight switch on a 12 touring with Rockies.
I added a stoplight switch to the handbrake which disconnects power to the pedal switch when the handbrake is pulled.
It worked fine but I can not post a picture because it was the car that was hit by a semi on 101 just south of Salinas That we talked about here and pictures were posted.
Aaron, what was that guy doing on the 101 ???
I would think that he would take a route with less heavy, high speed traffic.
I'm afraid you're correct as usual. Sooner or later, my battery-disconnect switch will start to wear out and then I'll have to replace it.
But there's another switch on the car that I don't expect to ever require replacementóa Fun Projects brake-light switch. That little sweetheart is so well made, it'll outlive the Golden Gate Bridge. Now, if only somebody would manufacture an equally high-quality, key-locking, steel, running-board toolbox replica (hint-hint).
Thanks for the kind words. If it helps, pushbutton switches are commonly sold in both functional types namely NC(normally closed) and NO(normally open). If one hooked up a NC pushbutton in series with the power to a stoplight and then arranged a bracket that would hit the handbrake lever you could indeed then have the power removed when the handbrake was pulled. The handbrake linkage being hooked to the frame would make the arrangement of a bracket and pushbutton mount to then be something that would work with good reliability if properly mounted. Search the internet for electronic surplus houses since pushbuttons of every shape and size are available but do check the format to make sure the action is NC.
The problem with disconnect switches is not when they are new for the most part. It is when they have weakened a bit and no longer make solid contact easily. Then you hit a bump and the thing opens up for a few milliseconds which can generate a huge spike out of your generator or alternator and bingo you have a shorted diode in your alternator or a blown cutout or VR on your generator. Been there many times. The high voltage you see when your coils have their points open up is exactly the same physics that causes a large spike of current/voltage from any inductive device connected to power through your disconnect switch. A lot of problems happen in a few milliseconds. If disconnect switches were made with precious metal (gold) on the contacts then they would not corrode and might repeatedly handle high currents but nobody could afford to buy one so clearly they are not made that way and some of them are horrendously bad and never make good contact even for awhile. I think you guys know that there is no other good reason that I would possibly be against such a device except that it causes problems and not just a nuisance problem but one that will cost you real $$$$. Ultimately it is each car owners decision. I will present my case and you can decide but if you check ALL of my cars you won't find one on any of them and my background is electrical so why don't I use them??
George, when you go from Salinas to Greenfield you have no choice, besides, it is not freeway in that section. he was doing 42 MPH when the semi slammed into them.
If you had real Rocky Mountain Brakes, which are cable operated, you wouldn't have that problem!
If he had real Rocky Mountain Brakes, they would work in reverse too!
I wish someone would make decent guts for the original style repro switches, or better yet, the maker of that switch might try doing a better job!
I have an original Ford switch on my car, and it works perfectly.