Hello, all. I was wondering what people with accessory lower front radius rods are doing about not being able to key the perch nuts. Adding the thickness of the additional, lower wishbone between the axle and the nut moves the nut down beyond the cotter key hole. Are people running without keys (not locking the nuts), with lock washers (putting fewer nut threads on the perch), or using a thinner nut (again, with less nut engagement)? Right now, I have the first situation. I'm guessing the third option is the best, but I'd like to hear your thoughts before I dink with it. Thanks, Nik - '14 Speedster (but a little later front axle I think)
I would grind off part of the nut, you want the cotter keys,Bob
High strength thread locker. KB
Hopefully someone will give the right answer, but there's a thinner nut used elsewhere on the T that is supposed to work good for this.... I'm just not sure what nut it is.
The nut that hold the pinion to the drive shaft is just right!
If you have really early spring perches - say 1915 or earlier - you have thread engagement of about 5 threads without the accessory wishbone. Grinding down the nut to install a cotter key after installing the lower wishbone brace you end up with maybe two threads of engagement.
It's better to change out to 1917 or later perches if you want to use upper and lower wishbones. They have much longer threaded area, apparently in anticipation of coming changes.
Thanks to all. I'll check it out and get 'er fixed up.