FINALLY, my second T is home. There are many brass parts that need polishing can anyone recommend a good brass polish and where to buy it, thanks!
I usually use a combo of "Brasso" polish with a few dots of "Simichrome" polish and a stiff toothbrush and it will make anything shine like new!
you can buy the brasso at any store and the simichrome can be had at either Langs or Synders and most antique malls.
I really like Blue Magic - works really quickly and isn't rough on the brass like Brasso. It also leaves behind a clear film that helps keep the brass from tarnashing as fast. I've tried 3 or 4 different kinds of stuff and this gives me the best shine every time.
Also, pro tip - once I've polished everything I like to go back over all of it with a clean micro fiber cloth. It gets any last vestiges of polishing compound and also really makes the brass pop.
Here is another picture of my new Express T. The coolest part is both of my T's came from the same collection and they have been parked in the same garage together since 1972!
Looks like a fun, practical ride! Could you show us details of the toolbox?
Nowell, are you polishing brass on the car you showed in the photos???????
Brasso is a good polish but as quick as you are finished polishing, the brass starts to tarnish as there is no clear film coating left on the brass by the polish.
I have not tried to mix brasso with some other polish???
It happens that one of my chores yesterday was polishing this radiator. I used Brasso first. I suspect the current formula may be different from what we used when I was in the army almost fifty years ago. Today's Brasso is pretty quick at removing tarnish, but as Wilie says, it leaves no protective coating and tarnishes pretty quickly. After the Brasso I used Cape Cod. It's not as quick to remove tarnish, but does seem to preserve the shine for a long time.
I do notice tiny scratches after using Brasso, so I intend to try Blue Magic, which several people have recommended, and maybe some of the others too.
I use FLITZ polish, available at Ace Hardware. Easy to use, has no ammonia and leaves a protective coating to prevent tarnish for about 90 days.
wenol works for me.
google & buy
Hey Nowell, just curious, but looking at the picture of your new T has me wondering where exactly is all this brass that you need to polish?
Hub caps? Maybe the steering wheel nut?
I just tried Meguiar's Hot Rim Metal Polish (bought at Auto Zone), and it shines well and does not seem to tarnish quickly.
I used the micro-fiber pads and a micro-fiber towel for polishing. Takes some rubbing, but does the job well.
Seth, if he thinks that car in the photo has many parts that need polishing, he needs to polish a 1912 or earlier T.
That can be almost a day long job.
Steering Wheel Spokes
(4) Hub Caps
(2) Ford Emblems
(2) Step Plates
(2) Sill Plates
(3) Grab Rails
And a couple of other small pieces
Here's my recommendations after having a '12 for over 40 years now.
Brasso used to be good back when I was in the Navy. They have changed it now at least here in Calfunny. It's no good.
I like to use Brite Boy for the very dark pieces that haven't been touched in years. It's quick and easy but doesn't give a really nice shine.
I found out that Brassworks uses Blue Magic a cream that leaves a film after a deep shine. After winning some Mothers at a car show and I found out the Mothers BILLET metal polish is much better. It also leaves a film that protects the surface for tarnish for a long time. During the Kanab tour we sat in a rainy downpour for at least an hour and had rain every day. My brass is still looking really nice and I'm really impressed.
There's tons of polishes on the market sort of like oil but at least the polish is easy to try and see for yourself. I've got a whole cabinet of half used bottles and tubes.
Like Willie says you haven't seen nothing till you work on an early brass car.
Lol yeah Nowell, you have a painted radiator shell and no brass in a LOT of places that the earlier cars are covered up in it.
I have a '14 that has 'some' brass, with the radiator, head lamps, step plates, windshield frame, hub caps, step plates, plus I have a trim piece around the body/firewall joint and a big trim piece that wraps around the whole car. If it isn't too bad and I don't have any really tough spots, I can do the whole thing front to back in 3 or 4 hours. I usually end up with my hands tired so I try to start a few days before whatever event and do a piece or two every day - radiator one day, head lamps and firewall trim the next, windshield frame the next, hub caps and wrap around trim after that, etc.
But even mine doesn't compare to an '11 or '12 - I have a later 26-27 steering column, my steering wheel spider is painted, windshield frame is tiny, no horn, no carbide generator, all kinds of stuff. I can't imagine how long it would take to do a car like that.
I used Flitz paste and Flitz tarnish to remove 7 years of tarnish on my over brassed 1910 roadster. Works best for me. I also live in Texas and humidity is a problem.