Time passes to fast. In 2005 I had the Mother in Law T at the Texas T Party, but it ran terrible and it was determined that the compression was terrible.
New valves were installed and it seemed to run great in our garage.
My sons and myself decided to take it and the 1925 roadster to one of those church picnic about 20 miles away.
It ran great all the way to the picnic and than would not start when we tried to go home.
After closed examination, we could see that some valves were not closing (open valve engine so you can see them).
After applying some WD40 and some degreaser in the engine (plugs removed)and to the stems and tapping them down many times, we finally got them free and were able to drive that 20 miles home.
I will post a photo or two of the car and picnic.
Nice! Sticky valves can drive you crazy if there is a cover so that you cannot see them.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Fantastic car Willie!
I have a question, is this a lack of lubricant in the fuel. I have been hearing about the need to add some extra lubricant to the fuel. Any suggestion on this??
I don't know if that's your cause or not Willie but adding some Marvel Mystery Oil to your gas can't hurt, especially in an open-valve car.
I have been wandering about that myself. I am adding seals on the tappet guides on my 09 engine so there won't be oil leaks but in the process I will be cutting off the oil supply to the valve guides. I have been trying to figure out what to do because the valve stems will be sliding up and down in a dry guides.
Thought about tying some felt around the valve stems and applying oil to it so it might seep up into the valve guides? Or drilling a hole in the valve guide, insert felt into the hole to apply oil?
Anybody got any ideas?
It may have a lot to do with rust or crud forming on the valve stems as the car sits a long spell. Not much work to remove the head, take out each valve and clean up the stems, etc. check the seats, whatever it needs.
Old gas will cause valves to gum up and stick. Was new fresh gas used?
I should add that even residue in the gas tank from old and evaporated gas will cause valves to stick. If there is anything in the tank, it can be cleaned with acetone.
I think adding mmo will only make the car smoke and stink! When we stoped for ice cream a young couple showed interst so we explaned the 99 year old car. The young woman turned up her nose at the few drops of oil Lizzie put down but her shack rabbit thought the car was cool!Bud.
Fuel does not need a lubricant. Even if there was oil in the fuel, it would only cause plugs to foul easier. In any case bad gas will cause valves to stick, and oil in the bad gas won't fix that.
Erich,As I said earlier, new valves were installed with a loose fit on the stems in the block. This was done a week before this test run.
All the old gas was drained and fresh gas was put in the tank. The tank was not flushed out and there was probably a little residue in the bottom.
I do not think there is enough oil coming from the lifter area to lubricate the valve stems. It does make a mess on the side of the engine block and pan.
A friend of mine placed some seals at the top of the lifters and it did stop most of the oil from coming out around the lifters. As far as I know, it did not cause any other problems.
The seals were done to his 09, not my 10.
Maybe try oiling the valve stems?
Wilie, I see now I misread your post thinking there was a long sitting spell after the valve work. Now it is more puzzling, but something must be gumming up the valves. Any chance there was some shavings left in the guides after the reaming?
OOOpps, I meant Willie. must be something gumming up my fingers as well......
Were these stainless valves or regular?
I use Belray 2 cycle oil in my gas on nearly every gas powered engine on the farm, It keeps the gas from going bad for as long as 4 years, and provides top end lubrication, in spite of the claims that you do not need lubricant in gas,30 years ago, lead was added as a top end lub, it is not there now, and some engines do run better if the valves get some lub. I have over 2000 miles on my T running from 50 to 1 to 1000 to 1 oil mix. Other 2 cycle oils do not give as good results for me. I have not had any problems except for the time I poured 6 oz of oil directly into the tand, it did not mix well and most of it ended up in the settling bulb and carb, but a quick drain of both and I was going again. There has been no fouling of the plugs, but then I have only driven it a few thousand miles, maybe they will foul in the next thousand
Thanks to all for your comments. I think the next step is to give the fuel tank a good cleaning and see if the problem goes away.
I think my sons have a national tour planned for the T so it better be done before that tour.
Erich, the valves were the stainless steel type.