Wheel assembly

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Wheel assembly
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 04:43 pm:

Just putting together my front wheels with new bearings, races, etc.

I can't tell from the service bulletins if there is a felt between the inner dust cap and the inner wheel bearing?

Thanks,

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John Zibell on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 05:21 pm:

Just use these. http://www.modeltford.com/item/2841N.aspx No felt required.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 07:37 pm:

Thanks John...

Also, it looks like I may have to chase the threads on the spindle. I am having difficulty threading the outer bearing on.

I do understand there is a left and right had thread.

Are there thread chasers available for this?

Thanks again!

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 09:50 pm:

This is just a guess, but I expect if you do find a left hand thread chaser it will be pretty costly. Then you add the cost of a right hand chaser. A thread file would do both sides and would probably cost a lot less.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:01 pm:

Hmmmm. a thread file. Is that a hardware store item?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:07 pm:

Re: The left hand thread... it will be a lot cheaper to take the spindle off and have a COMPETENT machinist chase the threads on a lathe. Once set up its only a five minute job... ws


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:12 pm:

Since we cant edit with FORTRAN here, let me ad that a bevel ground onto the end will take care of the bad threads as well. A "mild" dressing of the threads with a hand file will more than likely get you past the bad spot too. ws


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Stephen D Heatherly on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:23 pm:

Michael, I searched several hardware stores for a thread file but, did not find anything. I bought mine off ebay for $12. I don't know how I got along without it.

Stephen


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:40 pm:

If you don't have a big tool store nearby, see if a local auto parts store can get a thread file for you without a shipping charge. If not, you'll have to get it online and pay shipping.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ray Syverson on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:43 pm:

I had bad threads on my spindle but they were the left hand type. Finally found a guy willing to sell me his left hand thread file. It was about twice the cost of a new right hand thread file but it worked great. If anyone can use it I'll be glad to let it go for what I paid.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bud Holzschuh - Panama City, FL on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 10:56 pm:

Do thread files come in right & left threads ? I didn't think so !

BTW that's the way to go. Got mine at my local NAPA store for about $15.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 11:54 pm:

You can make a die from a axle nut. Cut about 4 notches at 90 degrees with a hacksaw, then chamfer the lead-in threads on one side. You could harden it if you have some nitride and an acetylene torch.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ted Dumas on Monday, August 26, 2013 - 11:56 pm:

You could also split the nut, then start where the threads are good and back it off to true up the damaged area. use vice grips to hold the two halves together.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By A. J. "Art" Bell on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 12:59 am:

Thread files are ambidextrous <@^@>

Make sure the one you buy has the thread size that you need.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Stroud on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 04:38 am:

Ray, you surely didn't pay more for a left handed thread file did you? If you are talking about a die, that is different. If not, I have a left handed monkey wrench that I will sell CHEAP! Just kidding! Dave


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ray Syverson on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 07:01 am:

David, you know I wondered about that. Crap!- the guy sold me a left handed hammer and screw driver also, and I'm not even left handed. : )


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 07:24 am:

Glad I'm wearing my boots.:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 04:46 pm:

Ok...enough with the jokes! :-)

Seriously, I tried the thread file - no help. I really think I need to order a die for this spindle.

Can you guys tell me what size to order?

Thanks!

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 05:18 pm:

3/4"-16. Of course, these really do come in left and right versions.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By A. J. "Art" Bell on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 05:21 pm:

Here is a link to an earlier thread on hub threads . . .
http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/331880/348911.html


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 05:25 pm:

First off... where did the parts come from? MACS would probably send you two RIGHT HAND bearings. Even if not so, the chinaman mis-packaged the parts. Did you check that bearing on the other side? Did you try the old bearing back on the spindle?
Pull the spindle and box it up with the new bearing and Ill chase the threads on my lathe for free, all other costs are yours.
Without a good die handle and only a pipe wrench (!!) you stand a good chance of making a crummy situation worse. Kind of like an episiotomy gone bad LOL...
If you dropped the spindle on a concrete floor and knicked a thread, grind the one bad spot off. Theres plenty left to hold the bearing and nut. Speaking of which, did you try the nut on that side too? ws


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 07:38 pm:

Are you using the new 'cheap' bearings that use a standard tapered roller bearing with a threaded insert? My experience with those is that they fit TIGHT! I believe they thread them the proper size before pressing them in the bearing. When they are pressed in, the threaded bore is constricted.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By David Sosnoski on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 08:17 pm:

Be aware that in the past there have been Timken bearings with bad threads. These seem to pop up every so often. If the bearing threads on about half way then jams, but the nut will thread on all the way, then the threads in the bearing are bad. Chasing the threads on the spindle won't help.

Dave S.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By michael grady on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 08:38 pm:

Thanks everyone....

WS..thanks for the offer. Your episiotomy analogy was particularly funny to me given my profession - I'm a retired gyn surgeon. Honestly!

With the thread file and a bucket to sit on, and a lot of patience, I was able to install the bearings. I tightened everything until the wheel just bound, and then backed off about 1/2 turn.

I placed the washer(with the little nib on it) on the spindle. Now when I thread the nut on, there is not enough length on the spindle to thread the castle nut on far enough to allow the cotter pin hole to show. If I put the castle nut on with the castles pointing inward, I can tighten it all down and put a cotter pin in.

It works, but just doesn't look right. Am I missing something?

Thanks again guys!

Michael


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 09:19 pm:

I like a man that knows how to use his hands! My mom always wanted me to be a doctor, but mechanics makes more sense to me... A Virgo wouldnt ya know!
Sounds like the bearing races aren't seated deep enough. After market races a lot of times have an incorrect radius which seats (or doesn't seat) into the hub properly. ME? Id knock out the races and scrutinize the fit.
New dad to the doctor; "Can ya throw another stitch in there for me doc?" That's a private joke between us professionals; The un-knowing are looking it up as we speak.
Don't run that nut upside down! I had a stripped rear hub nut that failed and I had to turn the nut around to get home. Lost the LR wheel in a parking lot. Actually my helper finished the job and had the hub cap on when I came back to the shop. Minus the cotter pin of course, unbeknownst to me.
Now, back to Gray's Anatomy... (its right next to the shop manual BTW) Laughter is the best medicine! ws

[IMG]http://i40.tinypic.com/2s8037q.jpg[/IMG]

[IMG]http://i41.tinypic.com/w1y36e.jpg[/IMG]


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Tuesday, August 27, 2013 - 11:38 pm:

Michael,
If you converted your 16 from the early ball bearings to roller bearings, you need to use a thinner spindle washer. (Lang's has them}


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