16 touring. Ground up restoration.
I'm trying to re-connect the front radius rod to he crankcase (Figure 84 in the service manual).
When I lift up the radius rod, it is not centered under the crankcase, so I can't connect it. Do I just man handle this with a something like a crow bar? I had the front axle on a jack as I was trying to do this.
It has to go in there,so put it in.
Michael you have a common problem with an easy solution. Loosen the U bolts that hold the front spring to the frame front cross member. You will be able to move the front axle to where the ball of the wishbone will center under the pan socket. Retighten the U bolts and you should be good to go.
Yes, pretty much just man handle it. Make sure that the spring is setting in the frame correctly and the spring perches are correct. After you get it attached and the car is setting on the front axle you can check the caster.
Michael: If the wishbone is the "over the axle" style (which is what 16 had) be sure you do not have it upside down. It can go that way and completely throw off the front end "geometry." I'd rule that out before I did anything else. Good luck.
oK..I'm a little confused (that is nothing new).
Please see the attached photos. I should loosen the u-bolts as indicated by the arrows and shift the entire engine? Do I need to lift the engine a bit as I do this?
I have also attached a photo so you can see how far out it is. This was taken from direct center backwards.
Regarding Joe's post: "If the wishbone is the "over the axle" style (which is what 16 had) be sure you do not have it upside down."
There should not be and originally was no "upside down" to the early wishbones, it should be symmetrical, and if not it is bent, most likely at the prongs that go into the perches. Some were probably bent by accident and some on purpose to correct caster. There are other problems if the early wishbone needs to be bent to correct caster.
No, I would not shift the engine over but it may help to loosen the u-bolds just a little to allow the spring to rotate a little is there is any play in the fit.
As a general rule when assembling anything it is normally best to get all bolts and fasteners started before tightening anything and that may apply to this case.
You can use a jack under the wishbone to set it in place, can see you have 2 wishbones, as the car has accessory one under the original above the axle Ford wishbone. That can complicate your maneuvers to get the thing in place.
Also, you have the front wheels off the garage floor, that is the front is suspended so the weight of the front of the car isn't on the spring and axle now. When you remove the jacks, things should align more easy, unless the accessory wishbone is mounted to the original at an obtuse angle, and has the angle messed up. Keep tinkering, you will get it, esp. if you let the car set down on the ground first.
Sooo....loosen the u bolts, and do not have the front wheels on the garage floor? I'll give it a try.
That did it...it just popped right into place when I jacked up the wishbone. no need to loosen anything!!
Thanks! you guys are amazing!
You can see how it's coming along on the attached shot..
...and drill a hole in your radiator for the choke.
The wheels can be on your garage floor.
wow...no way. Drill a hole in that beautiful radiator???!!!!
I was surprised to read the choke rod was never brass. My brass one sure looks pretty to me :-)
you should hear it purrr. Dan Hatch rebuilt it and put in a skat crank. Pretty cool.
just bought a new Brassworks radiator and had to drill a hole for the choke pull.
Gotta do it ... car won't start cold without the choke!
Hi Bub....There is a choke. Can you see the little wire threaded between the fins?
But, do I see a starter on a '16?? ;)
looks like a super nice resto.
Very nice looking chassis. Appears that you have a '26-'27 front axle that droops down in the center.
The front axle does look like it is bowed down quite a bit. Maybe just the photo but a 26/27 axle is nearly straight on the bottom side. Maybe it would be good to check the camber and straighten the axle if needed.
Yes, the axle is bowed down. Laying a ruler across the screen confirms it.
Like many Model T's, this one has a mixture of parts. The frame and clip are correct for 1916, as is the tapered spring. The perches and under-axle wishbone are 1919 and later. Looks like it's going to be a pretty car.
Why aren't radiators drilled (or punched) for the choke rod?