Hello Folks - I've just exhumed the remains of a Model T from the proverbial barn. It doesn't look too bad actually, rubber perished everywhere, but no tin-worm. Just house-cleaning and lubricating to start with. The ignition key is in the barrel and it is seized in the mag position. Do you think WD40 squirted liberally is a good idea?
The fan-belt is missing too - often there is a more modern replacement for that sort of thing, so any advice?
I'll come back to you all when I try to get her started and fail!
You don't give any details about the car. Model T's are not all the same. Here there are a couple of Model T belts available at the local auto parts store, but I don't know about Hampshire. The one for my 1915 was a Gates 811. You want to put a string around the pulleys and lay it out flat and measure it to get the right length belt.
I wouldn't put anything petroleum based into a lock, including WD-40. You can get a lubricant specifically for locks and not gum up the works.
Here are extensive instructions on awakening an enchanted T from its slumber: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/8538.html.
I am not a big fan of WD40. It is a good "water dis-placer" and "grime cleaner". However, it is a lousy lubricant. It and other commercially sold "penetrating oils" have some history of penetrating into some things so well it causes them to swell up and seize totally. A mix of acetone, old style brake fluid, and automatic transmission fluid makes a better oil to loosen things with. I don't really recommend it for locks however. Here, Napa Auto stores sell a product in a spray can for locks (Anti-Seize? Lock Ease?) that seems to be pretty good.
Welcome to the affliction! Yes, how about more information about your car? History? Photos?
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Congratulations on your barn find - it means one more T will be preserved! Please post pictures and above all the year of your T.
No harm whatsoever in squirting WD40 in the ignition switch to free it up. It may not be the best lubricant in the world but it works its way around and will not interfere with the electrical properties of the switch. At some point you will have to disassemble the switch and clean well and probably replace the wood in the coil box.
My T was a barn find 2 years ago and you will be surprised at what you will have to replace to get it running well. Take it slow - half the fun is learning and bringing her back to life with you own hands!
The ignition lock cylinder is pot metal, not as bad as some 1920's period parts made out of that kind of material, but still some of them swells and cracks so bad they have to be literally chiseled out and replaced.
Replacement cylinders are often badly made - you may have to file quite a lot to make them work smoothly, but it ain't really hard to repair the innards and make it work - it just takes some time and patience. There are also many old ignition switches to find that can be made useable, you may have to get a few to find all the same type of parts though, since Ford bought parts from several suppliers.