Ben kicking but for the past few months to get the body painted before winter. last winter was the engine and chassis. maybe one more till completion ????? Ken
Hey, I see some shinny! Looks real good.
Here it is lightened a little.
nice photo fix Ken! now the problem with shiny paint is not bumping into it and not being able to use it as a temporary storage cube anymore. Ken
Looks really great. Henry would be proud.
You have a sharp eye and a steady hand.
Nice! Thank you for the update.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Nice! What paint did you use?
Very nice, is that base clear or single stage?
Hi all! I used Kirker ultra-glo acrylic urethane single stage #UA-70330. the cost factor is the main reason I tried Kirker . I normally use glasurit base coat clear coat. if your car will spend most of it's time outside in the direct sun you might consider a clear coat for a better uv protection. all urethane paints can be wet sanded with 1500-2000 grit paper and then buffed but the difference between the two are, if you sand and buff a single stage paint you will get into the color pigment somewhat that will let the uv rays work on the paint to a certain degree. I have been painting cars full time for over forty years using both types of paint with very good results. I always stress that the primer and sealer foundation under the new shiny paint is the main key to color hold out regardless of the type or brand name of the paint being used. the last thing you want is your new paint finish slowly sinking into a not so superior foundation. all that being said, Henry didn't use clear and I wanted to be somewhat correct in the paint process. back to the paint cost, glasurit base color, clear, hardener and reducer to paint my t would be aprox. $750.00 verses around $200.00 delivered to my door. didn't mean to chew your ear off on this topic. thanks, Ken
Thanks for the reply. I too will be painting some new fenders soon so I asked as that looks very nice and durable. Did you use a sealer as well under the topcoat? Also, can you recommend me a nice gun? Am looking at the Iwata supernova right now.
Thanks a lot!
"Henry didn't use clear and I wanted to be somewhat correct in the paint process."
Oh to the contrary, he did use clear. Up until the colors came out. The "clear" was a varnish. Note the dull finish of the base coat on the right rear quarter. Also note the "flood" method of applying the clear.
Hi Musegh! that iwata gun should do a good job for you, I use an old sata grz with a 1.3 fluid tip for base coat color and a 1.4 for clear. depending on the viscosity of the clear a 1.3 fluid tip might work. the answer to the sealer ? is yes, one coat of epoxy sealer with the maximum amount of flash time and your ready to apply the paint. ps. a 1.4 gun for primer and sealer. for color you can just turn back on the amount of fluid coming out of that 1.4 . if you haven't painted before, mix up a little paint and test paint on an old fender that you can pick up at most body shops for free. just remember to prep and paint the junk fender like it's a keeper and that will be a gauge on what your car will look like. good luck. Ken
Thanks for the reply! Yes, going to get the Iwata very soon. I have been painting as a hobby restoring cars and trucks for over 30 years and now am transitioning to base/clear, finally. Just hated to give up my MBC-510!
Would appreciate any more photos you have along the way!