sorry if the other happens to come through. This is my third attempt to post this question. I don't see them showing up on the forum. so...once again...
I'd like to change the oil in my differential housing.
The drain plug (arrow A) seems to be too high to allow all the old oil to drain???
I assume I am to add the new (600 W) oil through the top plug - (arrow B)?
Also, how much oil do I add?
You have to use a suction gun to remove the old lubricant. "A" is the fill plug and the proper level should be near an inch below the hole for that particular year of housing. "B" is the inner roller bearing sleeve retainer bolt.
If the car isn't driveable, you may have a problem getting the thick 600w warm enough to be able to suck it out with a suction gun, something like this:
Here's a discussion on another forum about sucking heavy oil from transmissions: http://forums.aaca.org/f120/what-do-you-use-pump-gear-264583.html
Maybe Ford didn't put a drain plug on the rear diff since it used to leak so much anyway without the neoprene seals we have nowadays - adding oil was more needed?
By the time the diff oil was used up, it was likely time for an overhaul of the axle anyway. Do you know the shape of the innards in yours? If there's a remote chance you still have babbitt thrust washers inside, it's time to split the pumpkin and replace them with bronze.
And by the way, the screw on the pinion bearing housing isn't for adding oil - it locates and holds the outer pinion bearing sleeve on T's with a closed spool (up until 1920)
From the Ford manual: "The housing should not be more than one-third full."
When the filler plug was moved down to the 1/3 fill position it could also be called a level indicator.
wow! a suction gun....
Thanks for the info!
A few hints:
1. NEVER jack a model T from the center!
2. Loosen the joint bolts a turn each, place a pan underneath, THEN jack up each side next to the brake drums and go to lunch. That will split the seam a bit for drainage. A heat lamp or heat gun blowing on the housing may speed up the drain process.
3. Drill and tap a 1/8 npt plug at the bottom and use an allen wrench type plug so the judges wont see it. ws
I have been known to drill and tap for 1/8 NPT plug while the rear end is installed. Any bits from drilling should get trapped in the oil and come out when it starts draining. But to be sure I would add a magnetic filler plug.
Thanks guys...why never jack a model t from the center??
Jacking from the center is a good way to break the housing.
If you use a full size floor Jack and leave room to place a jack stand between it and the wheel, you have to place the Jack closer to the differential than some care for.
Has it actually ever happened to anyone?
I can see if you dropped a jack quickly on an early cast iron clam shell maybe, but I can't see the T spring having enough force to break anything by jacking in the centre.
I jack mine under the center all the time but, I'm very worried about it now. As others have mentioned, has it actually happened?
I think there's a difference between a heavy hack with a fragile pre 15 rear axle under it or a lighter touring or runabout with a sturdier 15-27 rear axle. I would be very careful with jack placement when jacking any car with an early rear axle.
i jack em up with a floor jack in the center all the time. open cars only weigh about 1100 lbs, now jacking up the back your going to get far less than half of that, so about the same as a heavy man standing on the center... you think it would break it?