I noticed on another thread where it was obvious the inside of the pan was painted (a nice shiny black!!).
I have built many engines over the years (T and others) and have never painted the inside.
My concern has always been that the paint may start to peal and compromise the oiling system.
I have heard of people promoting the idea that it seals away any sand etc from the casting/cleaning. Also the idea that it helped the oil to drain back better
Well regular paint may be a issue,but the Glyptol "spelling" that I read about here on the forum a few years ago is supposed to be resistant to all the problems in that application.
Les,
I am of the opinion there's no benefit to painting an area that will be filled with oil. However the folks who did a few engine blocks for me at Ron's Machine shop several years ago did paint the inside of my blocks with Glyptal. It seems to hold up well.
It is designed for use inside machinery gear cases - where there is always both some heat and some lube
Great for insides of machine tools
I have used glyptal before. Although it is not necessary, it does provide a corrosion protection that isn't there without it. It also seal the pores which is important especially if the block was sand blasted. Lots of your high end machine tools have the innards of their gear boxes done for likely the same reason.
I have often wondered if the pans (crankcases) were dipped at the factory as many other parts were. If they were then paint must not have been a problem.
Les, I have seen racing engine blocks painted inside with red glyp for the reasons you've stated above, and I know that GM used to paint the inside of all hydromatic transmission cases sold to Rolls Royce in the '60s and '70s, but was told that was to seal any porosity that might lead to weeping or leakage.
It is done, so I guess the only issues would be the material used and the prep of the parts to be painted.
As to the benefits beyond the aesthetics... My little dog has a coat for the winter and she doesn't seem to mind wearing it.
Forgot to mention you can buy electrical motor varnish (which is what glyptal is) in various colors including black. Graingers sells it.
I would think there is enough to do to maintain a T without doing something that you don't need to do! I know I already don't have enough time to get everything done and I certainly don't need to add to the list unnecessarily.
Here are (2) 2010 threads documenting the coating and subsequent curing by heat of my block and pan with Glyptal. best thing I ever did. Jim Patrick
www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/151534.html
www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/152476.html
PS. Even though Glyptal is available in several colors, including clear, I like the traditional red Glyptal because it is very reflective and allows one a better, brighter view of the interior of the engine when working on it. Jim Patrick
$50 for a gallon of glyptal, then use the cheapest oil available----both to protect the inside of the engine,-----is there a contradiction here?
Royce - It's about as useful as Marvel Mystery Oil but people sware by it none the less.
Ops, that's "swear" not sware. Dang spell checker.
In my career I was involved with lots of oilfield equipment manufacturing. We took the fresh clean castings directly from the foundry and painted them all over with a 2 part product somewhat similar to "glyptal". This was the very first step before they were exposed to ANY oil etc. Then they were machined and assembled and equipment that was being installed outside would get painted again. If it was going inside it got no more paint from us. So I am quite familiar with the concept
I try to avoid sandblasting engine blocks (sometimes you can't). In the past I have always had all engines hot tanked and them further washed in a "transmission type" washer just prior to assembly.
I can see where the "glyptal" type thing is probably OK. I don't think I will start using any ordinary paint inside stuff.
How about rear axles and torque tubes?
It has to be applied correctly and baked on. If not, you risk it flaking off and causing problems later. Also, the block has to be spotless to begin with. The net is full of first hand horror stories about the stuff being applied incorrectly.
I was under the impression it would allow oil to get back to the bottom of the pan faster as well.I do know that all the old Wisconsin small engines I have ever took apart have a red coating inside the block.The 1936 Briggs engine I had apart last year has it as well.
I used the spray can of red glyptal and it has worked great. No flaking off and I would definitely use it again. Sure makes it easier to see everything and also allows the oil to flow.
Gyptol red has been on my '27 engine innards, the crankcase, lower cover, and hogshead for over 10 years. No issues.
Coating the block insides may be more work, haven't done that yet. But coating the crankcase and hogshead, where the oil collects and is throw about makes clean sense to me.
The oil drains out fast, and the red enamel painted surface won't retain a thing. No flaking.
Painted on with brush, air dried. Metal was cleaned totally with lacquer thinner, no baking at any temp needed. IMO, Gyptol does what it claims are.
2003
2013 change of wood bands to Kevlar
3 dip pan coated this year for the next project in the wings.
I still question the use of Gyptol paint in a T block, it is designed to insulate and with stand temps of 135c, that sort of insulating can't be doing your oil temp any good if that paint is eliminating heat transfer to the metals that keep the motor cooler.
The main insulating property of Glyptal is in being a non-conductor of electricity, that is why it is used in electric motors.
Aside from impressing the next guy that re-builds the motor (hopefully) 30 years from now there's actually no reason for it but don't let that stop you.
All paints have thermal insulating properties. Some more than others. That's why radiator paint has a low solid and high solvent formula. It's only used for coloring but an unpainted radiator cools better. It's also why they use ceramic paints/coatings on headers--To keep the heat inside.
Ford used a low-solids wash on the engines. Perhaps he knew something about thermal properties. Like maybe thermal siphon?
Who says oil returns faster if painted with Glyptol? Do we really need it to return faster?
The oil that sticks to the unpainted walls isn't good enough for the rest of the oil to flow down fast enough?
I am not against the stuff, I just don't think it helps anything other than seal the pores. And make it look good.
$50 a gallon and then use cheap oil you say?
Can you get glyptol for less?
Is expensive oil any better than cheap oil?
I would question why anyone would use glyptal and the put any expensive 20-50 in the T engine, or non-detergent oil.
Who says oil returns faster if painted with Glyptol? Do we really need it to return faster?
The oil that sticks to the unpainted walls isn't good enough for the rest of the oil to flow down fast enough?
I am not against the stuff, I just don't think it helps anything other than seal the pores. And make it look good.
$50 a gallon and then use cheap oil you say?
Can you get glyptol for less?
Is expensive oil any better than cheap oil?
I would question why anyone would use glyptal and the put any expensive 20-50 in the T engine, or non-detergent oil.
I powdercoated my 15's crankcase over a year ago--no noticeable problems yet. Is my T going to commit suicide or something? I hope my oil don't get over 400 degrees and cause the powdercoating to come loose inside my engine. It sure looks good from the outside! Anyone else out there with powdercoated crankcases?
I powder coated the inside of my oil pan on the 09