Now lets talk about rear axle bearings. I have three that I measured and the diameter of the rollers vary from .499 to .4978. Are these still good to use? The fourth measured .495, is this still good to use?
One of the three I can twist, can I peen the rod ends over to tighten or is it scrap?
Thanks in advance.
Those measure fine, esp. if you are going to use a new axle and new best sleeves, the fit will be rather good as new.
As for any wiggle in the cage ends, my preference is to not stake the rivets, and just replace. Have removed many Hyatt's that were in the past peened over, and became loose again.
IMO, better to spent time searching for solid tight Hyatt bearings then waste time peening over loose rivet bars in the cage ends, the metal is worn, the cage hole is oversize....never can be like it left the assembly line in the Hyatt factory.
Good Hyatts and one non-Hyatt reproduction bearing
Just remember if you use the new re-pop style without the grooves to keep 'em well greased.
Model A rear roller replacement bearings are non grooved, keep them greased if you use the modern replacements.
Just a mention about the modern (non grooved) roller bearings.
I installed a set from Lang's about 2 years ago and I am now tearing down the rear end for some differential work.
Although the bearings only have about 900 miles on them (measured - not guessed) I can find no signs of wear on either the bearings or the axle shafts.
The bearings were kept very well greased.
I was told by a Model T veteran whose opinion I respect that the new bearings aren't as bad as their reputation. OK, fine, I'll buy that. But I won't buy the bearings. Why not? Because even though the new ones are better than folks think, the originals are better. As long as good old ones are readily available at auctions a swap meets, I'll stick with those.
The bearings run in a "sleeve" that is formed out of sheet metal and is not necessarily as perfect as a modern machined bearing race. Because the rollers of the old original Hyatts are not solid but to a slight degree are actually a spring that will "flex" a very slight amount to better conform to the slightly imperfect "sleeve", while the new bearings with solid rollers will not flex at all!
Ten to fourteen years ago this site had a lot of talk about bad luck with the new solid bearings.
It seems the originals will work out much better if everything else I not perfect.
Probably because they can and do flex.
If anyone has any Hyatts that have good rollers but loose pins and are going to toss them, I'll take them off your hands.
Me too Hal!
Not surprisingly, there seems to be a high demand for those loosely goosey Hyatt bearings!
Can the pins be welded to keep tight the cage ??
Maybe, try some with your wire welder and see. They can usually be tightened with a hammer and a punch. I suppose they could be brazed also if one was careful not to cook the rollers.
Good news on the bearing front. Out of the four Hyatt bearings I deemed two were bad. So I got on the phone and called my in-house model t supply house (my mother) and had my step dad pull the bearings out of the differentials my grandpa had collected.
He said of the four he pulled two were in good shape so he mailed them off to me this week. If the rollers measure good I'll have a complete set of Hyatt bearings for my differential rebuild. I did buy aftermarket repro's just in case.
Phillip - "He said of the four he pulled two were in good shape"....
Do you happen to know if those two "in good shape" were the two inner bearings? Just curious, as that's usually the case, as the two outside bearings are usually more worn as they support the entire weight of the rear of the car, whereby the two inners never have any weight on them at all and are usually in much better shape. Again, just curious,....harold
I've mentioned this here before, but it bears repeating every now and then. If you're using new repro sleeves and axles, the original Hyatts in "good condition" (less than .005" wear) might not fit into the assembly. If you have to force the bearings in there, you should use ones with a little more wear so they don't bind up. I don't know whether it's the sleeves or the axles which are a bit thick, but I've had to use Hyatt bearings with at least .005 of wear to get them in place without binding.
He only removed the four outer bearings of two differentials he had in storage. My step dad has plenty to do besides take apart a couple of differentials for me.
If the two he sends are no good I still have the two repro's I bought and will use them for the inner bearings and the two good Hyatts from my differential for the outers.