There are a number of grits available for ball hones. I plan to purchase 1 (or as necessary) for breaking the glaze on serviceable engines which are simply burning oil and require new rings.
Grits available are: 120, 180, 240, 320
advice on grit size or range would be appreciated. Thanks
Scott, where did you find them for sale? I need one too. Hope someone will chime in on the grit question. If not I plan on buying the 180.
and BTW, if there isn't advice forthcoming from someone with experience that I trust, I'm inclined to agree with you on grit...
I have USA made 240 stones on my glaze breaker and they're pretty darn aggressive on cast iron. The oil pads fill up with carbon pretty quick. If I were to use a ball hone, I'd use 320 with lots of WD-40 to keep them from loading up. Perhaps 600 grit if they're made in China.
Take it for what it's worth.
Thank you Scott and Ken.
Flex-Hone Made in good ole USA.
Thanks for the info Jimmy, I found a new one on eBay, Flex-Hone GB33424, 3 3/4" dia. 240 grit for a little over half the price quoted by the manufacturer. The eBay seller has a number of them for sale in case anyone is interested.
EBay no 221189689648
thank you for the hands-on experience and advice...just what I was looking for.
thank you for the research.
First of all, a word from the exsperts:
Lastly but not least, the correct lube will cool and keep the stones clean. Just look at the sharpening stone for your knives with that slick black shiny shiest that needs solvent and a wire brush to clean. Keep your balls; Ill keep my 3 blade spring loaded stone Sunnen unit. BTW... I can buy several grades of stones to fit the one unit for about $10 a set.
In case youre in a buying mood:
Hey Thanks EX, I recently honed and reringed my engine after it was blowing some smoke. Unfortunately after new rings it's still blowing blue smoke. Maybe it was a result of the honing and too much ring gap.
Very interesting reading. Makes sense to me.
But as far as useing them for honeing,apparently the dingleberry hone I used 1 time was awfull coarse grit because it left a little more marking than I would have wanted.And it didnt take much time either.
Gene,run the engine a while for break in before giveing up.
When I read ex trooper's words,There is so many things that come to mind due to experianceing a testicular torsion when I was younger :>0! OUCH! is 1 of them.
Geez Mack... Im glad some one here has a sense of humor.
If any one is gonna try for the recommended cross hatch, it involves ONE ROTATION per ONE CYLINDER LENGTH of travel. If you are doing it by hand drill, that's means really slow on the rpm, and fast on the up and down. When you think youre done, clean up the job for an inspection, and then one more pass with the stones dry. The biggest trick is to make the last UP pass, then stop, and withdraw the stones without letting the driver spin and make a ring pattern. Anyone ever consider cutting the ridge with a ridge reamer? ws
Gene.......if you try to break in the engine by just running it it'll take forever.
You need to alternately beat the snot out of it then take it easy at fairly short intervals.
If there are small, steeper, hills around it's the perfect way to break it in.
Give 'er on the way up and take it easy on the way down.
Turn around and repeat as necessary.......a half hour oughta do it.
A chrome top ring hastens the process too.
I would be curious as to those who have jumped on the idea of grit ball finishing and what they would report as actual experience.
I've used grit ball finishers on industrial machinery as a bit of a super finisher for high velocity oxy-fuel tungsten spray coated forming rollers and so far like what I see. Took a while to figure out proper speeds feeds for what I needed to do and can generally say that they do their thing quick. You dwell along and they not only clog...but so does your surface 'super finish'.
Also curious, for those that try and report back just what their grit balls are as to grit size AND material. I've found in my own experiments that the aluminum oxide and the tungsten of the same grit at the same speed give different results.
Asking for feedback is not just for me and my needs. Most know I've been a bit obsessive compulsive about finding a bullet-proof procedural way for an Average Joe to re-bush triple gears in a tranny so that it doesn't swallow itself in the first 100 miles even at 'normal' clearance. I'll share...I HAVE been thinking of a trial that would involve the last step of bush finish to be using a 68 Caliber grit ball 'paint ball' barrel finisher.
Just haven't gotten around to it as I have been waiting to hear about the timesaver run-in additional step someone was working on.