It is fun to learn what people are doing to their T's but the thread usually gets so long it is hard to read unless I'm on my big computer.
I ordered 4 new tires and tubes from Lang's.
The current tires on my T are the same one's that were on it in 1964 when it was placed in storage and they have significant age cracks.
This will remove an excuse for not going on trips over 10-15 miles from home.
Watch out world!!
I'll be coming at 25 mph soon!
If I can find money for gas!
Last saturday I took my Speedster to Road America and ran the old race track in a reenactment. The man behind me in a Ferrari Testarosa said he had a hard time keeping up with me. I was only going about 50-55 down a country road with some 10 year old I found at the track as my passenger. I know he enjoyed himself.
Wonder if he will be there next year?
Officially this work was done last weekend but close enough for me.
I pulled the differential from the frame on my 16 and disassembled for a rebuild. Wasn't too difficult but that 600w oil was not fun, what a mess. Damage was as expected, I need new axles, two new bearings, axles sleeves, ring & pinion, some brake hardware.
All parts are on order so let the fun begin.
Not what I did to it, but what I did with it. This morning I loaded up the ol' TT with some old furniture and some bags of old clothing, cranked it up, and headed off to the nearby Hope Chest. The guy wanted to know if I was donating the truck too, smart a**.
Got a sweet shake-down of my speedster in its latest configuration at the North Carolina HCCA Fall Tour in Washington, NC.
I knew that the aluminum Warford would run well and that the Zenith carb was the business, but I didn't get a chance to test my new Bosch DU-4 magneto with it's triple gear drive very much before just running the 45 miles up the road to Washington! We drove well over 100 miles on Friday and even further on Saturday.
The engine didn't give me any trouble but I've got some tweaking to do on my new AC brakes. They didn't work as well as I had hoped - I think the main problem is almost half of the band isn't on the drums on the top, it's pulling in towards the middle. Today I'm going to make a little bracket that will keep it squarely on top of the drum and I should get much better contact and braking.
Also today: ordered a 3 inch dropped axle from Nostalgia Sids (www.droppedaxles.com), I'm really excited about it - he stretches the ends after the drop so that you maintain the correct 52" between kingpins. I'll post pics when I get it on the car. It'll really help my stance - right now I'm about 1 full inch higher in the front than the rear. Not sure why but that's where she ended up after going to the reverse-eye main leaf springs in the front and the back. 2 inches of rake should give me just enough to be noticeable but not overwhelming.
Patched the coupe fenders and wrote silly things on the Forum.
Put new screen in sediment bowl and a drain petcock on the '12 and polished brass on it and the TT firetruck. Would include a pic of the TT but file too big-again- so here's the '12
I had the day off but it rained all day long in Denver. I had to settle for just polishing the brass on the 14. It looks good!
I drilled holes for hub bolts and sanded a fender where the paint was damaged by a brake fluid soaked rag that was laying on it. I posted a picture of my new drill press as this thread was being typed. I ordered correct front hub bolts from Snyders.
I re-aligned the front cross member, ala Anthonie Boer, to put on a replacement radiator.
Thanks for the picture, Toon!
My frame was about 23-3/8" and is now 23" !!
: ^ )
Today was one that would have been best off watching old movies…oh wait…nah…typical day working on a T you have never had opened up before.
Starter car…one day just didn’t…no grunt, no nothing. Lizard on battery showed green…volt meter showed 4V at starter itself. So I said ‘hah…just so happen to have rebuilt a switch the other week’. Changed switch and the old one came out easy. Polish all connections, use contact cleaner and then contact sealer when bolted up. Press starter switch…still nothing, not even a grunt!
Hook up the meter to the battery direct, press switch, the high 6V goes to 4 V. Ahh, shelf battery from two seasons ago, go get another one as batteries especially Group 1 do not last anymore.
Only one Group 1 within 15 miles…fortunately the made date was fresh within 2 months. Came home, swapped out the battery, nothing, nada, not even a grunt. Put meter on, still dropped from 6V to 4V. Right cables, all clean contacts, starter must have an internal short.
Open up dust cover to look, still looks good, but the armature tho’ does move fore and aft a good quarter inch.
No problem, have a fresh rebuilt starter in a box. Open up the Bendix cover, spring looks like a pretzel but that’s not my electrical problem. Bendix itself looks real good but I suspect it has been replaced with a repro.
Does the outboard bolt with a raised ‘2’ on the head mean anything to anybody? Like...repop?
Fortunately whoever did it last never bent the tabs on the washers. Get the bolt out easy, with my fingers….grrrr…then the danged end ring won’t come off, has a burr somewhere. Where’s that small puller? Gave up looking after a while and went to the auto store and found something I wasn't too keen on but that would work. Counter guy said, I wouldn't try to pull anything really stuck with that one! I smiled, said it was something simple on a Model T. He grinned ear to ear and said 'COOL!'
Had to modify it at the grinder as everything is in the way but that worked sweet and it popped right off.
The head sleeve for the Bendix had a full crack in it. I have spares but wondered what would have caused a crack? Still wonder if this is a repop. Heck, wasn’t a crack, it was a full split long-ways and wide open.
Getting the starter out itself was actually uneventful
So…with the heat index now up over 100 and drenched to the bone…called it a day on that.
Let’s see…an expected 1 hour job on a T…4 hours later, only ½ done…trip to the store involved…actually two trips...playing with the grinder…yup…about par for the course after all.
Putting it all back together tho' should be a breeze....but then again.....stay tuned....
I was able to get the narrowed front axle on the car, only need to put nuts on tie rod after adjusting toe in. then coffee and a break to feed my friends.
Man that squirrel is PLUMP!! You need to give him a break from getting fed so much. LOL
Part.duex on the starter.
Uneventful...other than getting the bendix cover on. . And figuring out how to hold the starter in until I could get two bolts in.
First time I ever did it with a body on! Hack at that! What a contortion to get that done.
Took it out, really wanted to test out the new Bergs radiator. 100 degree heat index again....ran here hard....no gurgle and motometer doesn't come up past half.
I had to smile at the new starter tho'. First time any T of mine has sounded like the sound bites on you tube!
After realigning the frame so the replacement radiator would fit, I worked over a re-production water outlet so it would fit.
Why I had to, I don't understand...
I made a brake light switch bracket and installed it in my 26 Roadster.
Very nice work Pat. I like the design.
Made new spools to mount the Radiator.
I know you can buy them for $1.75 each but I wanted to mount the radiator today and forgot to order them last time.
I also know that a lot of the members like to make things and I thought I would show how easy these were to make.
Just some 22 gauge steel, a piece of 3/4 shaft and a hose clamp.
I "prepped" 2 T's for a run tomorrow.
I just "prepped" one John. I'm guessing the two T's you speak of would be a "his" and a "hers", huh?
I dug out my first T chassis that has been restored for probably almost 10 years now. The engine was done at CT Antique Engine Resto. When I bought it from Model T Haven, it had a late '23 touring body on it but needed everything. My dad and I had started to build a replica Mifflinburg truck body on it because I wanted a wood bodied truck before finishing the touring.
All of a sudden I found myself the proud owner of a brass car, so I enjoyed it for several years until I had to sell it. In the mean time I had found an original Mifflinburg truck and this chassis had gone unused.
Last year I decided to put the roadster body panels I had to use so I had a wood skeleton built by a forum member. This week I decided it was time to do something with the restored chassis, fresh engine, and great roadster body. I'm going to split my time between the tudor and this project.
Tonight I dug out the chassis at mom and dad's (where dad and I restored it and then it was buried under newer projects) and moved it to the garage across the street from me. My wife helped me move 2 '64 Fairlanes and then we set the roadster body on the frame. It looks great and I can't wait to start fitting the panels.
Tomorrow I hope to get at least one of the two patches done on the tudor. The weather is supposed to be great. I hope to share an update on the tudor soon with LOTS of progress!
Forgot the pic...
I finally started working on repairing my valve seats. I had been putting it off - intimidated, did not want to screw up my engine. So today I got at it, read and reread the directions, got the tools and cutters and machine out. Put it all in place tightend everything good, doubled checked things and started cutting. I am a total novice and no machinist but I was very pleased. to my untrained eye, it looks darn good. Three more to go :-)
Tom, Looks like you will have to bring your valve seating tool to the T garage. I'm sure there are more T,s that need new valve seats.
See you there Harold!
I took my new 1923 touring/pickup for its first real drive (7 miles) and changed the oil. Before starting it up, I slowly pushed it out of the garage with the top up, turns out I have at least 2 inches of clearance, so no worries about crunching the top while driving into the garage.
This was the first time I was able to use high gear, everything seems to work like it should. The oil that came out was 2 years old, pretty thin and looked almost new, the previous owner of the car hardly ever drove the car. I filled it with 4 quarts of Pennzoil 5W-30. I'm going to take it out again early tomorrow morning while the traffic is light to get more practice.
Would you mind doing a thread on the valve seats? You take good photos so I'd love to see and hear about it. I'd also like to know where you got the equipment (original, repro, etc?) and any other details you can share.
Having trouble with camera. But I got the ski-wheel assembly mounted today and checked the Head lights and Spot lights. All worked, All most ready for Snow. A long 12 years to get to this point.
Got the 1912 Touring down to bare bones today.A tedious,unnerving job. Those little nails and screws that wont turn or break off..a headache but got it done. Good thing because there was a lot of junk between some of the metal and wood, even some bugs..
Meanwhile I got its doors and panels back all blasted and primed..
Took my friend and his 10 yr old grandson for a drive
I just bought my 27 sport touring. Had been stored for aprox 12 years. Had to clean out 12 yrs of black tar like goo from the fuel tank and lines. Replaced the vaporizer with a new rebuilt 26 style NH that I rebuilt, and a excellent straight exhaust. Started her up and sounded like %$#@*& and had flames coming out exhaust and glowing red hot. After a re-time and questions answered on a separate post I got her to run OK and it will hand crank on mag now. Next step is to remove water pump and get her to start on compression. Just another T on the road again after years of storage. all of this done over last 3 days.
I added a dash clock I got from the local 'Restore' (donated recycle stuff for Habitat for Humanity) store. No, it's not appropriate, but it's better than the gaping hole some hack did with a hacksaw for the speedo head .. that doesn't work.
Well do Craig.
well do Craig.
sorry for the repeat.
Greg, I really enjoyed seeing the pictures of your '12 coming apart. The wood framing on the old bodies is something we don't get to see often and is really intriguing to me.
Not "what did I do ON my T, but what I have done With my T. I drove to the hospital to make "rounds" on my patient, then to Church. After Mass, to WalMart for dog food. Now, it's take the 2 golden retrievers for a walk with friends and, on the way back, pick up the edging debris from my daughter's house and drop it at the recycling center. All in the touring!
You pulled apart and sandblasted an partly assembled a body in one day? It would take me just to pull it apart.
I took my new 1923 touring/pickup for its second practice drive since finally getting my MO historic plates. I estimate I drove about 12 miles and got up to around 35 mph on one stretch. It didn't overheat, and I managed to bring it back home in one piece. Despite driving early Sunday morning, I did choose to pull over a couple of times to let faster traffic go by.
Thanks for kind words. Yes, the wood structure is very interesting. I must have taken out 50 pieces of wood from the body. Interesting how many pieces of wood and the way they were put together.
I am doing a simultaneous restoration of a 1912 Torpedo but my late dad had already stripped the car down to bare bones and restored everything. But he was a talented expert who had been doing this sort of thing for 70 of his 85 years.
I , on the other hand, had never done anything like this before, nor had I seen dad do it or ever had much interest in the restoration of Model T’s. But I started to get it prepared for sandblasting and prime paint.
Then something was telling me it just seemed too easy just to take off the doors and firewall and blast the car just the way it was and then prime paint it. Most importantly I had a nagging thought as to what was behind that metal and wood. So when I decided,with much apprehension, to remove one of the smaller panels in the rear, all this rust dust, debris and even bugs started falling out. So then I knew I had to strip all the metal off. In fact , about the only thing I recall of dad's last restoration project ,was seeing the “skeleton” of the torpedo in his shop. So he stripped off the metal.
Just hope I can put Humpty Dumpty back together again..
Kep, if you are referring to me. No, it took me 3 days to strip off all the metal and remove all the wood pieces. All of which I did personally. I did not blast and prime the doors,that was sent out. I just got them back the same day I completed stripping of the Touring metal…I have recorded everything done, by photos. Dad would no doubt have a heart attack knowing I actually stripped the metal and wood off his car since he rarely ever saw me with a tool in my hand…
Anyway,yesterday afternoon, I delivered the body and chassis parts to be primed and painted as well. All except the rear end, which will be disassembled and the housings checked for loose rivets which may have to be replaced and the rear end itself will have to be rebuilt.
So we get on with the restorations….
How I got pulled in to this hobby, I will never know but I’m in now and enjoying it…..
How true ...
"So we get on with the restorations….
How I got pulled in to this hobby, I will never know but I’m in now and enjoying it…..
Who is doing your rear end and engine work?
Will you replace any wood or just clean the pieces up?
Made a form to straighten hood from scrap lumber. I tried to straighten the hood mounted on the car and the radiator started seeping a little.
The form will make a nice end table for the garage when not being used to straighten hoods.
Rich that is really neat!
Craig, the hood looks like the one on your Express wagon. Love that vehicle.
Pat ... That looks like a very stout and professional fabrication there .. suitable for resale! ;-)
If any of the wood is not sound enough I will have exact copies made of those particular pieces. most of it looks good though.
J and M Machine will do the engine as they did the Torpedo engine and rear end rebuild. They are just the best.They do everything the correct and thorough way. And they have the machinery and mega tools to do it. They are a top tier machine shop and have also built complete early ford cars from the ground up so they are familiar with all things Ford.
I have had great luck with all that I have chosen to do the different elements of work on the restorations.
EXCEPT THE PAINTER. Don't even ask..
Have a new painter now, who is also a "T" guy so all is good.
After buying this
John, I hate to tell you this, but the TT takes a LOT less $$$ to keep than your new acquisition!
There are two great days in a boater's life:
1) The day he buys the boat
2) The day he sells the boat!
Although, I do admit now I do regret selling my steamboat 20 years ago.
Oh, I forgot, what I did on/for my T today.
Went to Auburn swap meet, picked up some original lined e-brake bands, a headlight with a good reflector and an interesting aftermarket lens. A few other small parts, and for the future speedster, a Stromberg OF that looks pretty nice, although one mounting bolt hole is stripped.
Oh, and I nickel plated my repro windshield retaining channel for the '25.
So, some progress! Now back to the other stuff (house, theatre organ, etc.).
Installed exhaust pipe, polished rims and installed headlights, put new bearings in RF wheel & put wheel on the car, mostly installed RF fender. Wire brushed and painted carriage bolts for fender, to install after they cook for a day or two.
i put in original bands because everyone says they are better. They chatter and slip. Might be past their best before date.
Got two new wheels ready to go. I made them and they are better that I thought they would be. Almost no wobble and they are round. Pictures tomorrow
Steve, what's the white on the LF?
I know you ask Steve what the white is on the LF but I'll guess it's a white towel for polishing brass or for wiping hands off.
I believe he's asking about the powdery stuff on the spokes.
I think Hal was asking about the wheel. That's dust from driving on dirt roads. It looks white in the picture, but it's gray.
John & David....well, I can relate to the "two happiest days" of a boaters life! After jumping into the antique car hobby with both feet, between being stretched for time and of course $$ with still owning the boat, not to mention room in the pole barn when the boat was out of the water (25' Lobster boat), something had to go. So at age 58, after being on the water and/or owning my own boat of various types since 4 years old, decided it was time for the boat to go. So far no real regrets.
Now, time to get back to work on the Firetruck.
Looking good. Be sure to fill all the upholstery nail holes with toothpicks and the other screw holes with small dowels so you don’t put nails and screw into holes. You will want to put them where the existing holes are! Also take pictures and measurement of location for things like door strap screws, etc. that you can’t determine after you put the upholstery on!
BTW, you know that the little square tab on the driver side panel hangs down below the panel and attaches the panel to the door sill, right? Two screw in the panel, two screws in the sill.
: ^ )
Wetting the wood and applying heat will close up nail holes and remove dents. So if you plug holes then wet the wood very well and then apply heat you will really get rid of the holes. If you have a dent in a table top such as dropping a heavy object on it and making a dent, you can wet the area of the dent very well over a few hours, then place a wet towel over the area and heat up the family flat iron used for clothing and apply it to the dent area. If it is a steam iron it will be even more effective. You will then most likely have to refinish the table top but you will not have to buy a new table.
Heated water repairs wood very well.
I've been ultra sonic cleaning my differential parts every day this week (I bring in a few parts at a time) here at work.
Today I'll deburr some of the parts after work then in ultra sonic clean.
I received most of my parts earlier this week so the rebuilding will begin this weekend.
Nobody commented on Bob's Snowmobile but that thing sure is cool!! I hope it snows like crazy up your way Bob and soon, you should do a thread with a lots of pics when it does.
Very interesting Frank, never heard that method before.
Here are the square tabs I think you are referring to Keith..upper and lower.
Thanks for the nice words. I guess I'm as deep into the Snow units (after 33 years +) as some are into Speedsters,
brass era, TT's and tractor conversions,Rob with the K and the others doing research on the those T's built in different parts of the world. It's fun finding information on there history going back as far as 1896, not all were auto related.
I've never ridden or driven a modern Snowmobile
(Motor Toboggan) as I call them.
I will take many pictures when I get into the snow this winter with both the Snowmobile and the Snow Bird. Its at least an hours drive to get to the snow from here (almost at sea level).
Made a tool to straighten headlight sockets and then got the lights working on the Rust-T-coupe.
I finally DROVE IT! Took a friend out for a tour in the '20 Runabout all over two counties who can't drive due to health issues, we had a blast. Went a good 50 miles on a beautiful fall afternoon. Then took the wife and dog out for a spin, fuel, and milk in the Model A after supper. A great day.
Finished construction of the speedster "body" platform. Working on fabrication of the cowl support next.
Test drove it with the cast iron pistons i installed. Runs nicely at low speed but anything over 25 is a bit harsh. Bit hot too.. is this because the water jacket needs cleaning?
finished 3 more generators...set for 6A, ready for dust shields and out the door - darn armatures are getting expensive
Kep I ran my '15 with an untouched engine during some very hot days and all it did was churn a little. Acted like a normal vehicle on regular days. I'd check your timing and fuel system adjustment rather than worry about what kind of pistons are installed.
Thursday we buried my T's even FARTHER back in the garage for our yearly winter preparation. Dad and I got an early start on it this year (not sure why but at least we won't have to do any of this in the rain or cold).
Hope to have a dedicated T shop in the back yard by next summer so I don't have to go through the 45 min ordeal when getting one out or putting it away.
Craig...wow, winter must come early where you live. And I thought it was bad here in Ohio! Still planning on several more trips in at least two of the cars, then roll out the Model A for a bit when it really gets "cool". Have a good winter if that's possible. I'll spend a lot of time dreaming of the season to come for sure.
I'm not far away from you, but we just have too much junk jammed into the garages at this point. I wanted to get an early start this year and may have jumped the gun, but I have another project going at the moment (camper build) that's taking up a garage space and I need to get it ready to be stored outdoors before December. So if I concentrate on that I can't be working on the other campers or trying to spend a whole weekend moving cars, trailers, and Model T's.
Usually right after Hershey is when we winterize the campers and put the toys away. I want to get to a point where I can use the stuff year round if I want. That's what the tudor is for, so it will definitely have a space where it's not buried.
This weekend I took a chance on a rusty looking Battery horn at a swap meet for my rusty T coupe. Hoping there was something usable inside I opened it up today and found it was like new inside. I'm not used to finding T parts in this good condition. The paint inside the cover was still glossy. There was a spot that had not gotten painted that had a little surface rust but was still shiny steel.
I hooked a wire to it and it honks fine.
One happy guy.
Craig...well the way this cooler than normal Sept. has been, you're probably right on target. I don't see too many more trips out in the open T, so will maybe get a few in the Model A Tudor. The dog loves to ride in it, the wife...well she says it "smells" too "antique" for her, but she reluctantly goes once in a while!
For now I'm pressing on doing resto work on the firetruck in this cool weather, if I keep the pole barn closed up, not too bad in there. So that's what I did on my T today.
Not today, but this last weekend I FINALLY got my new spoked wheels on my car. I had made the decision to switch to natural varnished wheels about 10 years ago. I had some rims and hubs fitted with new spokes and fellies and got them 9 years ago. Then I stalled. This spring though I discovered that the painted wheels I had on the car were starting to get loose, so finally HAD to finish the new ones I'd had made up. Had a set back with a bad tube, but Saturday finally got that last tire mounted and went for a spin to a farm heritage show nearby. It was a great day.
I received and installed a new Cartouche top boot that I ordered from Lang's.
I also installed a small campaign sticker in the corner of my windshield.