I have been given my Grandfathers 1923 Coupe and looking forward to getting it on the road again. I have been able to remove the threaded "hub cap", cotter pin and castle nut to expose this. I have the axle jacked up, but I am not able to remove the wheel. I do not want to be too forceful without asking for guidance. How do I remove the wheel/tire?
It's a bit pricey, but buy one of these: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/365
I guarantee it'll get that wheel right off, and it will be a snap!
I haven't tried this, but I've read about it enough times to think there's something to it. You put the nut back on, but leave it a little loose, put the cotter pin back in, and drive around awhile. The wheel will loosen up and you can pull it off by hand. Of course, this only applies if the car runs. If not, you need the puller.
By the way, Scott, I see this is your first post. Here are a couple of links for all new T folks.
Even if the car runs, just go ahead and bite the bullet and buy the puller. I really didn't want to but I've used it 900 times since I got it. It's worth the money.
Along with the foregoing, consider looking at::
and finding a chapter near you.
In the days and weeks ahead, your questions may very well be numerous...only way better than asking on this Forum is to connect with a knowledgeable mentor near you who can help you learn the "quirks" of your family's auto.....and the club you connect with may very well have a hub puller that you can borrow - along with a Library of "How-to" books, CDs and other videos that can be loaned out.
You have already got some good advice here. For most anything that comes up on other issues you will find that someone has had the exact same question in the past and it has been answered on this forum. If you do a Google search of the forum you will most always find an answer to your questions.
For example if you did a Google search for:
pulling rear wheel site:http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/
you would find a few past threads with the same issue. Like this thread:
From June 29, 2009
from one Ohioan to another..."Welcome to the club"!
As you are a bit south of Dayton, that almost makes us neighbors! I'm near Monroeville. Anyway, here's a valuable contact person if you haven't already heard of them... Stutzman Wheel Shop in Baltic Ohio Ph. 330-897-1391. He seldom answers, but always returns your call usually the same day. Can't remember his fist name, so I just call him "Mr. Stutzman"! Great folks, excellent work. If you ever need spoke work on your car, he's the man.
Like the other guys say, just buy the hub puller. You'll be pulling those wheels annually for checkups anyway, so it'll be worth it. I even bought the big one for my TT...and they're a lot more money than the regular one. No regrets.
Scott, the wheel puller is the best and easiest way to go. Just be sure you have it threaded fully onto your hub cap threads and clamped down tight. Once you have it installed, you will be surprised how hard you have to hit the bolt on the end to shake the wheel loose. That tapered axle end in the tapered socket in the hub really gets a good hold over the years! I wound up using a 12 pound hammer and a really hard whack. Light taps were ignored by the axle.
Getting to know our local T folks will make a lot of these tasks easier and a lot more fun.
I agree with all the above, except loosening the nut and driving around a while.
The puller is one tool you will need more than once if you plan to keep the T. I don't recommend hammering too much. If it doesn't come off with with one or two hard blows, put the nut back on and then the puller again and tighten it as much as you can and drive it. Usually about a block will do the job, so stay close to home.
WOW! Thank you to everyone for your feedback. I did not expect to get a response so quickly. I thought it might take a week, but only 15 minutes. That is great. The puller is on order. Next step once wheel is off, replace tire, inspect brakes and ask lots of questions.
Some people like to replace the tires with the wheel still on the car. That way, you don't have to support the wheel yourself. Others prefer to do it off the car.
Scott, get it in your mind to do a rear end tear down before you drive this car much. I find that a lot of folks new to T's over look this critical step. Unless you know the cars history, this can be a catastrophe waiting to happen. I know it sounds like I'm tryin to scare you, and I am. MHO, KB
If you are not familiar with T's, you may be surprised to find out, the brakes inside the rear brake drum are only the parking brake. If original, they are cast iron. No lining. Just didn't want you to panic when you got inside. Your service brake is in the transmission.
I think Keith is suggesting you open up your rear axle and determine if you have the original babbit thrust bearings on either side holding the axles at the correct distance or if they were replaced by bronze thrust bearings.
The problem is - as you can find by searching the Forum - that the babbit often after 80 plus years and that can cause your axles to shift and disengage from the drive line. That is a catastrophic failure because when that happens you no longer have your service brake on the transmission connected to your wheels.
That leaves only your parking brake to stop you. As Hal says they aren't really meant to stop you when rolling just meant to hold the car while you start it.
You'll have to get that wheel off before you split the pumpkin and check for babbit washers inside. The above suggestions regarding loosening the nut and driving it, if it runs, is helpful. Maybe even towing it a few blocks like that would help. Otherwise, get the puller.
the knock off type pullers are cheep and work well. you jack up the opposite side wheel, then whack the one you want off. knock off thing is about 5 bucks from all the vendors, or a buck at any swap meet
After reading this thread and others, I decided to check the rear axle nut torque on both sides of my 1923 touring/pickup today (I just started driving it after getting my MO historic license plates). The breakaway torque on the passenger side nut was around 100 ft-lbs, but the driver's side was only 40-50 ft-lbs. On both sides, I added a washer under the nut and retorqued the nuts to 120 ft-lbs plus whatever it took to get the next castellation to line up with the hole in the axle shaft. Now the cotter pins fit snugly, well down in the slots of the nuts. Since I needed to add washers under the nuts, I decided to check the position of my brake drums relative to the backing plates, they look OK.
Thanks all for reminding us newbies to make these important checks!
Thank you all for the pointers and advice. Hub puller arrived today and like magic, rear wheel driver's side is off.
Hal Davis, thank you for the forewarning about only being a parking brake exposed behind the hub.
Next step, get some blocks to jack up the other side and take the passenger rear wheel off. Then I will take Keith and Thomas up on their suggestion by inspecting the axle. LOTS of questions to follow.