Installing your T engine

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Installing your T engine
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 07:53 am:

After replacing all the screws on my magneto and reassembling the engine it goes back in the car.

The drive shaft is supported up a few inches to make it very easy to see and manipulate the U joint. Once the U joint slips into the transmission output shaft the 2X4 is removed and the engine dropped into place. If you watch early assembly line video you can see Ford line workers doing it this way.










Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 07:59 am:

After the exhaust nut is tight you can install the firewall, firewall brackets, coil box, speedometer, wiring harness, timer and steering gear as a unit just as Ford did at the factory.


The exhaust nut is retightened after the engine has been warmed up. After that it will not come loose until you remove it for the next service.

The spark lever is drilled #35 AWG and tapped for #6-32 screw. The screw is installed with thread locker.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dave Hjortnaes, Men Falls, WI on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 08:35 am:

OMG Is that a phillips head screw I see being installed by Royce?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Richard Eagle Ida Fls on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 09:46 am:

That is so much easier than on a car with a cowl. Your making the '15 and later guys so envious.
Great photos and fun to see detail we don't usually get to see.
Rich


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Smith on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 10:01 am:

I will try the 2X4 method you mentioned. I've never liked lining up U joints. I have an engine to install next week, so your timing on this post was perfect. Thanks.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 12:18 pm:

LOL Dave!!!!!!!!

Yeah, I have a '14 but it's a speedster with a cowl. I thought the same thing - that is SO much ridiculously easier when you can just pop the whole firewall and steering column out of there. It's not even fair really.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Larry Bohlen, Severn MD on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 12:28 pm:

Seth/Dave,

Let's talk about the improved cars......

Some things got more cumbersome as time went by and design changed....
:-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robert Scott Owens on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 12:28 pm:

Does the method change with a water pump? I put my alternator on while its still on an engine stand. I also found that with the TH400 clutch the motor turns over easier for lining up the drive shaft. Thanks for the post, Scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rob from Nova Scotia on Friday, September 13, 2013 - 12:46 pm:

Mr Owens either you are pulling Royce s leg or trying to give him a stroke.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary Hagen on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 07:47 pm:

Thanks for the great tips Royce. I have to do this next year. What was the issue with the engine?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 07:56 pm:

Loose screws on the magnets. Not sure what caused it but it pays to park the car and check mysterious noises!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dick Fischer on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 08:18 pm:

What's the deal with drilling and tapping the spark lever ? Guess that one went right over my head.

Thanks,

Dick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 08:34 pm:

More convenient than installing a rivet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ricks - Surf City on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 08:37 pm:

It's even easier when you have a modren ('37-48 Ford) steering gear with a ujoint midway up the steering shaft.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Noel D. Chicoine, MD, Pierre, SD on Saturday, September 14, 2013 - 08:42 pm:

I like the screw in the spark lever!!I drilled mine out due to wear in the rod and put in an oversize cotter pin and it is still sloppy. I'm going to try to tap it and put in a set screw.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Joseph Geisler on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 12:18 am:

Great photos and instructions Royce!
Went into my official notebook file.
Is this car a 10 or 11?
The color??? I'm sure everybody else knows the story but I do not. Still a really beautiful Ford guy!
Joe in Mo.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 10:21 am:

Joe,

It is S/N 93622. Casting date on the head and block are mid - November 1911. The car is an early 1912 model. Cars in this serial number range began exiting the Highland Park plant about the first week of December, 1911 according to records found in the Accounts Receivables ledgers at the Benson ford archive.

No idea what the color is, or why the previous owner painted it that way. Sort of a pink / orange, I call it Porange. It's a good 20 - footer, so I can't justify repainting it right now. Some day if I get to retire, and can afford to, I would like to restore this one.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Greg sarky K on Sunday, September 15, 2013 - 11:26 am:

Thanks for posting this Royce..


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