is there anyway to retrieve band nut with out removing hogshead
Usually, not always. Draining the oil will move the nut close enough to the drain hole to fish for it and hook it with a wire. No, it will not come on out the bottom. However, usually, the nut can be threaded with a string or wire which can then usually be fished or fed up to the top to pull it out.
Welcome to the world of model Ts!
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
I have a magnet on 24 inch bendable aluminum wire that worked for me. I'll send it if you want too give it a try.
Rigid makes a camera. If used to be called a SEE SNAKE. I used mine to retrieve a nut out of my transmission. It comes with a magnet that attaches to the camera end. You just drain the oil, slide the camera in with the magnet attachment on it, and get that little guy out....
Is it in the sump, or wedged up at the flywheel? Not joking, on the flywheel ones, a 10 year old with skinny arms and 10 bucks gets you the nut back
thanks for all the suggestions. no luck yet. how about the starter or bendix holes?
We have had good luck fishing with a piece of refrigerator door magnet. It is flexible but will hold it's shape enough to push around the pan.
Next time tie a 2 foot piece of dental floss through the nut. Tie the other end off to the magneto post.
If you're using a telescoping magnet put a piece of plastic tubing around the magnet so that the sides of the magnet don't hang up on the pan. It makes the magnet much more maneuverable. Good Luck! John
Larry, i asked the same question ten years ago some wise (ass) person told me to just turn it upside down and shake it.
I refrained from adding that remedy earlier as I'm sure most, if not all of us here has dropped one "Into the Abyss" ! I was told once to get 6 of my closest pals along with a case of cold ones and do just that !
Use a rag under the magnets and crank the engine by hand. Flywheel pulls the rag around and the fates may seem fit to bring the nut up. This worked for me.
Next time stuff some rags on both sides of the hogs head; just don't forget to take all of them back out. I did once and came up with some cotton jelly
Larry, how did it go, did you get the nut out of the transmission?
no luck as of now. might have to remove the hogshead. i am afraid of messing up 4th main alignment.
Well, Larry, if you do, don't feel badly. You'll have lotsa company.
I may have been that "wise-ass". I had a dear friend (who passed away about 8 years ago) who swore that when he was in high school (before 12/7/41) that he and some friends teamed up to buy a T. When one of them dropped the key into the transmission he claimed that the four of them turned the car over and got the key back (probably a bit of other junk, oil, fuel and water also).
I never thought to ask what the body style was, it may have been a bug or speedster.
The flex magnet with rubber coated sides worked for me. I heard a click on my first trip down and came up with the nut. Elation may fall short in describing my feeling at that point. By the way, I had tied the nut with floss but apparently trying to start the nut had cut the floss.
I have done the rags stuffed and still had a nut find the one place I missed! Glad to hear you got it out.
Wayne has the best solution. I was able to retrieve a lost cotter pin from the bottom of my transmission using a variation of this method. I first drained the oil out, which turned out to be too thick to allow the cotter pin to flow toward the hole as I had hoped. After being unable to find the cotter key through the bottom with a wire, I went to the hardware store and bought a gallon of mineral spirits and poured it into a bucket. After placing a container under the drain, I poured the mineral spirits into the transmission access opening as fast as I could in order for the thin, fast flowing mineral spirits to create enough pressure and agitation to move the cotter pin. Re-using the mineral spirits I captured in the bucket under the drain, I did this three times, each time dumping the bucket in a different place to the side of the bands toward the wall of the hogshead and, on the third try, was able to find the cotter pin, using a flexible wire with a hook bent on the end. I found it in front of the drain, where it wound up flowing. You will not be able to get the nut through the drain hole but if you can center the hole of the nut over the drain, you can thread a flexible wire with a washer on the end of it, through the nut hole and up through the transmission access opening where you can grab it and pull it out. Jim Patrick
Note: The movement of the object is only accomplished during the initial pouring (dumping) in of the mineral spirits and the agitation and pressure caused by this. Once the liquid has been poured in, no more movement will occur as the flowing of the mineral spirits out through the drain does not create enough current to cause the object to move. That is why it is important to dump the mineral spirits in as fast as possible with a bucket, to create this initial influx of rapidly moving liquid to cause the object to dislodge and flow with the liquid, hopefully toward the drain where you can retrieve it. Good luck.
That's a must have for every Model T owner.
Because if you haven't dropped a _______ (fill in the blank) in the transmission you will one day.
This 24" flex shaft magnet, which should be long enough to get to the bottom of the pan through the transmission access opening, is on ebay now for a buy it now price of $2.99.
Why not use Kerosene?
In the olden days some people used it to help flush out the old oil from the motor and it is cheap (like me)
When your done you can use it in the side lights!
Kerosene would work. Any thin, *mild solvent that has the consistency of water that will agitate the object and move it toward the very bottom of the pan as close to the drain as possible, would work, however, I doubt if you would want to reuse the kerosene as it is sure to pick up oil residue from the pan that might make it smoke in your lamps.
*DO NOT, however, use lacquer thinner, MEK, Xylene or other very hot solvent, as such solvents can destroy the insulation covering your Magneto windings. Use Mineral Spirits, Kerosene, Turpentine, Naptha or other thin mild solvent. Jim Patrick
If its stuck to a magnet, you might be able to retrieve it by removing the starter and rotating the crank until it appears. If its not stuck to a magnet,drain the oil and tap the crankcase until its at the bottom, then with a piece of wire or perhaps a long needle nose plier push it up against a magnet.
thanks to wayne,hal,michael,george,r.s.,royce,john b.j,rick,steve,joseph,r.v.,john m,terry,mark,jim,larry,fred&ted i successfully retrieved the nut 15 minutes after the ups trk delivered a TITAN 11163 24" Flexible Magnetic Pickup Tool. thank you very much guys for the help,support&wise suggestions,larry
Glad you got it out, hope the rest of the work goes smoothly.
Throw another one in there and see how long it takes to get this one out...!!! Just curious!~
Michael Grady You are mean!
Good going Larry. I think a 24" flex shaft magnet should be an essential tool for the T owner. Just be careful not to drop anything non ferrous in there such as a brass key. Jim Patrick
I know, but you gotta laugh sometimes at the mess we get ourselves into. I have often found myself uttering "Seriously Michael?". Like a couple weeks ago when I put the inner oil seals on the rear axles in backwards.
With me, it is always "Sheldon, you idiot!" Can I say that on this site?
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Oi Vay! Uff Da!