Hi; Just bought me a model T. Ive had Ts for years but strayed away to other things for a few years. Been missing the model Ts. I had several future projects so decided to sell them and get a good car to build a driver with instead of the rough project cars. Sold the projects and then started looking. I found this one on e-bay fairly close to home. After the auction ended with no bids I contacted the seller and went there to look at it. I will not buy anything with out a look in person. Needless to say it did not even come close to matching the e-bay listing. If I had bought it in the auction I would have been mad as %#@& when I saw it. After some dealing and trading I ended up with a real solid 1927 Sport touring with 12 year old gas in it. I bought it knowing the paint is bad, the gas tank is hopeless,the vin# was wrong on title, and more than likley has not ran in 12 years. But I love her. The title was in his name but with a wrong motor # for the title. Thank goodness Ark is a bill of sale only state for antique tags. The motor # matches the car very well. It is a later 1927 and all the body features match the motor# date. I believe the car is a older restoration of a very nice original car. The car has no rust at all except for a very small area about the size of a quarter, where the rear kick panel meets the door opening/floorboard area on the driver side. The fenders are almost perfect. It has new (12 yr old) top, side curtains, top boot seat covers, door/kick panels, new tires, safety glass, ect. and the chrome is very good. My first step was to clean out the tank of 12 years of black tar like goo. Did 2 cans of Crystal Draino, then a complete POR gas tank liner clean and line kit. Rebuilt the sediment valve, rebuilt a 1926 style NH and put the correct Vaporizer in a box for storage. I hate Vaporizers, Cleaned the timer and checked the coils. When it was time to start her I could not get her to start. I had my wife pull me and finally got her running, 1 trip around the field, was running very bad and the exhaust turned glowing red hot. I found out from fellow Model T owners on this forum, that I had timed the new day timer with the Ford gauge at 2-1/2 inches which will not work on new days. I Re-set the timing and it ran OK. After some adjustments I could hand crank on mag and even started on compression a few times. But it still has no power and will overheat when taken on a little longer tryout trip. I have had many Ts so I do not have any problems with driving techneque, but I can not get any power or stop the overheating. I did a compression test and it was #1 32psi, #2 39psi, #3 34psi, and #4 39psi. I did the test with the hand crank with the throttle wide open and pulled thru compression 3 times cold. I also did a static timing of the timer with piston travel thru #1 spark plug hole and it is OK now. I decided to remove the head and check out what I have. After removing the head I have aluminumn pistons .030 over, The valves are tight in there guides with little to no wear. I do not have hard valve seats or adjustable lifters, and the valve gap is aprox .010 to .012 on the few valves I checked. Will do a good test on gap tomorrow. The lifters are original lifters and are smooth on the end. It looks like they may have been recessed at some time and have been dressed down to a smooth end by the previous owner/mechanic. I have not checked springs yet. I will buy new ones anyway. The valves were a little rusty with some carbon but not too bad. They had a full seat around the valve face. The head gasket was sealed very well and no sign of leakage. It appears to have been pumping a little oil but I checked the oil and it was 1 quart overfull. That may be the oil pumping problem as the pistons and cylinder walls look very good. The radiator and water jackets had quite a bit of grease in them from the water pump. Im removing the pump as I do not like them. They are just a big grease slinging mess maker anyway. I boiled the radiator out today with another can of Draino. I will probably be in Jail soon as I think that is what they use to make Meth. with. I have de-greased the outside of the radiator to remove all the waterpump grease (even the horn was full of grease) and then used some C.L.R. to nutralize the draino and remove the rust and green corrosion that was starting. I think the radiator is going to be a good one. Basically that is where Im at right now. Will order parts tomorrow. Im going to try and post some pics tonight of the car as it was in the E-Bay auction. Im new to the forum so it may take awhile to figure it out. After I get the pics of as-bought posted Ill start adding a few as I go. If anyone has any pics of the 26-27 Sport Tourings or has any lititure about the differances of the Sport touring/roadster models I would appreciate it. I think I have everything needed to be a correct sport touring except the correct wind wing brackets. I have the part that clamps to the glass but not the part that attaches to the windshield stanchion. Any leads on a set would be greatly appreciated also. Thanks.... Donnie.....
I don't have any advice for you. Sounds like a nice car/engine. I hope you get all the bugs worked out.
For photos you can see my profile. but it is a 1926
You can even get a bill of sale for it, for your state:
Welcome to the forum
If you split up your text in several paragraphs it'll be much easier to read in the computer
Looks just like my older resto.
Welcome to the '26-'27 touring club!
Found this on eBay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Model-T-Ford-NOS-side-wind-wing-clamps-for-the-stanchion s-1926-1927-1928-1929-A-/251337129867?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&has h=item3a84dc3f8b&vxp=mtr
My daughter and son in- law are in Little Rock.
His family has deep roots in the state hailing from Augusta.
Good luck with the project looks like you are off to a good start.
Year before last at Petit Jean with my Hack, I changed the hoses and clamps the Fri before the show. Forgot to put water back in it and drove from the campground to the Winrock restaurant before I realized it. After letting it cool and putting water in it, it hardly had enough power to get back to the campground. After getting home, everything checked out fine. It started and ran fine in the shop with fire to all the plugs, but, out on the road it wouldn't climb a hill in high. After a new Anderson timer, a valve job and even a new set of rings it was the same. I took all the coils out of my TT and put them in my Hack and the problem was solved. All of the coils in both vehicles had been previously rebuilt by Coilman, but, one of them was breaking down at highway speed. Put a set of "known and working" good ones in and try it before you start with the big stuff.
Welcome to the incurable-illness Donnie. Did you happen to notice if the water jacket was full of crud while you had the head off? It should be cleaned out thoroughly using a long screwdriver or dental pick and a shopvac including the little steam holes. Your next step would be to clean out the radiator. I've never had to do that so someone can chime in on that. That little plastic fuel filter can be thrown in the garbage too as it will only restrict the flow of gas to the carb.
Hi: the water jacket was clean. The radiator had some grease in it, but not to bad. Ive boiled the radiator out. I use draino to boil them out. Take a can of crystal draino and put it in a bucket with about 3 gallon hot water. after it boils and mixes up just pour it in the radiator laying on its front side down. With the radiator cap on and the drain plug shut you can fill the whole radiator full and into the inlet outlet hose connections by leveling it with shims, wedges, ect till the water is equal in the hose connections. let it stand several hours (or overnight) The Draino ad used to say "will not hurt your pipes" Ive done several radiators thru the years and never hurt one yet. After the Draino is drained out you will have to boil the rust out as Draino will not remove rust if there is any. I use my wifes C.L.R. (calcium, lime, rust, remover) that you get at wal mart to remove the rust and "green corrosion" on the outside) Just pour it in the radiator at 1/2 strength and let sit while you use a small cleaning brush (toothbrush or ??) on the outside to keep it wet with CLR. In a 1/2 hour or so you will have a nice clean radiator to paint or if needs any work it is clean to solder or ?? if needed. Like I said , Ive never hurt one yet, unless it was just a very rotten piece of crap. To add another page to the ongoing saga of the overheating problem. I checked the valve clearances today. They vary from .014 to .018 with one intake being .029. I also did a quick check with the KR Wilson gauge for setting the valves by piston position. They were way off that way also. I have opened a can of worms when I removed the timing cover. The cam has extreme end play. aprox 5/16 inch or more. It also has at least .025 play in the front bearing. It is enough that you can see the big time gear "climb" up the small gear as you turn it. Also the time marks do not make any sence at all. I have a fiber large time gear. With the #1 piston on TDC on compression. The time mark on the big gear is about the generator gear position (aprox 10:00). The small 0 mark on the small gear tooth is not where it needs to be and my crank pin is in the verticle or 12:00 position. Remember this is all on a engine that I can hand crank on mag and will start on compression sometimes. My game plan at this time is to remove the bottom inspection cover. It may be a good idea to look at the rods anyway. Ill hold the lifters up with close pins and remove the cam and bearings. I have several sets of good used cam bearings so Im going to use them and replace the large gear with a good used gear and maybe replace the cam if its bad. I will buy a set of adjustable lifters, and put it back together. I used to rebuild T engines 10-15 years ago so I still have a large stash of good used parts. Since I believe this to be a "poor boy" overhaul from years ago Im cutting my losses and putting it back as a good-as-I-can engine. Then maybe it will run as it should for a year or so till I can rebuild another engine for it. I still have all my KR Wilson tooling and line bore equipment for the Ts. Its just getting time to do it properly. As to the fuel filter. I have already rebuilt the entire fuel system. It is all as should be in perfect condition. I have not changed the coils yet, but probley will, when I pet her together again. So I guess for now its time to order more parts and proceed on with the can of worms... Will try to post some more pics tomorrow. Donnie...
Thanks for the great information on radiator cleaning. I have used vinegar with success, but I also like your approach.
Now for the usual experts to climb on the fibre gear band wagon!!!
I can hardly wait!!!
All the best
Here you go, Les. I'm no expert, but this is my fiber timing gear.
I thought it was interesting that Donnie has provided a good explanation of some of the failures. I figure any gear that has survived at all the installation he has found is not too darn bad
What is (are) the difference (s) between a 1927 Touring and a 1927 Sport Touring?
The "Sport" has tonneau cover and a racoon tail on the antenna.
The "sport" had a plated rad shell, plated steering wheel spider and probably the half side curtains on the front doors (they have another name but it escapes me right now).
They were called Gypsy Curtains.
Earlier thread: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/80257/115627.html
also thought they had the canvas boot to match??
Yes that is the right term!!
In Canada they offered a tan top and boot and I believe "non black" seats as part of the package.
Just a guess on my part but maybe they were trying to sport old Lizzy up to look like a smaller version of her big sister Model L Lincoln Sport Touring??
Another day, another learning experience!
Hi: Im no expert on Sport Tourings but I think they have bumpers, nickel radiator shell, gypsy curtains and top boot. Im not sure if all the gypsy curtains and boots were tan canvas or if they could be black also. and they also had wire wheels. I believe they were trying to "doll" old lizzie up for the younger college age market. Period correct driving accessories would be a raccoon coat and a raccoon tail on the windshield post. This was the "Flapper Era" and your girl should be dressed as such. If you have all the above you have a sport touring. I did not do much today on the can of worms. I did drain the oil. So tomorrow Ill remove the lower inspection cover and see how many worms are in there. Thanks for the posts. Donnie...
Sounds like the cats meow to me.
Yep. the Sport touring was the cats meow!
And then there was the 'Sport' runabout, but it didn't have those lowly Gypsy curtains.....the runabout got the fancy glass wind-wings
Dan. Thanks for the pics. Would it be possible for you to send me a copy of the touring pic in full size (resolution) so I can print a good copy. or where was that pic oraginaly printed. Thanks... That touring pic is just like my car. A little more research makes me think that the vacumn wiper, dash light and stop/tail light were also part of the "sport touring" package. ??? any thoughts on that... Thanks again... Donnie....
The engine would have been painted moleskin green for 1927. Although three's still some debate on the tint. Some other "sparkle" details can be found here:
Looks great. I love my 1927. There is a picture in my profile of me driving it. currently saving up for a pair of gypsy curtains and a top boot.