I go tomorrow to pick up a 23 or 24 roadster I purchased from a local that is a 3 owner car and original as far as aesthetics. It has been restored mechanically and runs god. The owner is 85 and not mechanical so he decided to sell and I was the first he considered. I will take some pics when we go to pick it up and post them. This is a real barn find and as I am told, we have to move a vintage Corvette to get to the car. I gave more than I should have for the car but he has instructed me to remove all the parts in the loft that pertain to a Model T. From what I understand this is enough parts to build maybe 2 more cars. I cannot believe there is any bodies there but, I could be wrong. We'll see tomorrow.
Look carefully in the loft. Last time I was in FL, I went into my barn loft to get some fenders I remembered being there and found several things I'd forgot putting up there over the years--the metal panels and turtledeck for a high cowl roadster, a 15 touring body, a fiberglass roadster tub and turtledeck, and 3 sedan doors, & 2 brass radiators. You may get lucky! Check out the vette too.
Picked it up today. Found out the car is a 3 owner and has not been restored except to freshen the motor and install a new top. When I arrived, the car was in the yard and fired right up. The goodies in the barn were not great for most people but, for me, it was a gold mine. 2 motors, one 26-27 the other a 19 sedan motor. Both look to be original with cast iron pistons and no cracks. Both were complete from the hand crank to the fourth main. The 26-27 tranny looks really good. All in all, a good find for the money.
If you're satisfied, you did well! I think there are some T people around Ashville and probably a local club. If you find one, let me know where--I'm less than 100 miles from you, (I-85 at the NC/SC line.)
Congratulations! I like it when Ts find their way out of long storage!
I hope you have a lot of fun with it for many years to come.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Sounds like a great find.
Would you please take some photos of the unrestored body to help us document how things were done? Specifically if you could remove the front seat cushion and take photos that show the seat area and what type of supports run up from the rear of the seat frame to the top of the rear seat. That may not show up because of the upholstery, but if you feel and/or can use a mirror to let us know if it has wood support channels, metal support channels, or no channels that would be helpful. Also is the seat frame all metal, wood, or metal with wood attached for upholstery to be attached to?
Please let us know the engine number (xxx for the last three works fine – I do not need that level of detail). And because 1923 – 24 is one of the most mislabeled years, please verify it is a low cowl 1923 model year or a high cowl 1924 model year or include a photo of the firewall that shows the reinforcing ribs and we can tell from that very easily. While the fenders and even the splash apron under the radiator can easily be fitted to the earlier cars and therefore may have been changed out back in 1927 or so, the firewall is not interchangeable between the bodies.
Also if you can find out where the car was originally purchased that will allow us to have a good estimate on which branch assembly plant produced the car (usually the plant with the lowest shipping cost to the location but some times other state boundaries etc.)
From your profile you clearly understand the mechanical items on the 1928-31 Model A Fords and V8s. But it doesn’t list any Ts. Is this your first T or one of many you have had over the years? That helps us better understand what we should recommend if anything. I.e. new to Ts threads and information or you got it already.
Again, congratulations on your new T.
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New info. The car I believe is a 21 but I have not seen the title yet. I had to put an exhaust manifold on to stop the noise. New gaskets and it sounds good for a motor with stock tappets. I had to do a little wiring to correct someone's method of installing a distributor and a toggle switch directly over the reverse pedal. Every time I went to back up, I killed the engine. One wire move and the toggle is gone and the switch on the dash works. I adjusted the low pedal and got a good low but someone has adjusted the pressure plate screws out and there is no high. That gets fixed today and I will go for a proper drive.
Hap, this is my second, I have a 16 transition touring that I have used to tour with for 3 years. I have also rebuilt several motors and transmissions for myself and others so, I do understand T's too. I will try to get a few pics today and post them here.
Hope I can get pictures to post.
New Bergs radiator
I worked all morning to get the transmission adjusted so it would have high gear. Somebody got into it and screwed the pressure plate screws out till there was no pressure on the clutches. The brake band is so worn it does not have any brakes. This is a new experience for me, I have never driven without brakes but know how to use reverse and low to slow down and stop.
The engine runs good and does not smoke or leak too bad.
Not too crazy about the distributor or the water pump but, they work. I did have to put an exhaust manifold on to get rid of an exhaust leak.
And replace the horn, the one that's on there looks like it belongs on a semi!
Nice looking T! Thanks for clarifying that you have had your 1916 for a while. I cannot clearly tell from the photos if your new roadster has the narrow arm rest or the wide arm rest that hang over the side of the body. But that would also be something to help date the body. And if you look at the right front floorboard riser you may find a body number and if it is a Beaudett number they often have the year there also.
Again congratulations on your new T.
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Agree with the others, a great little roadster. Enjoy it!
A little more work today and it is running pretty good. I switched out the brake band for another used one that was better and got good brakes now. The throttle rod was on backwards, timing was off and, I had the fingers 1/2 turn too tight. Everything adjusted and I now have a good free neutral. Reset the timing and reversed the wires on the ammeter to get it showing correctly. It was showing discharge when running and I was not sure if it was discharging or hooked reverse till I hit the horn and it jumped to charge, just backwards. Readjusted low and all works great now. I drove it this morning at 2/3 throttle but now have a full range so, it should do better on hills.
Are we having fun yet????????