Valve seat insert install

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Valve seat insert install
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:01 pm:

Posting this for those interested in do it yourself - for what ever reason. My reasons - just wanting to learn and be able to fix my own stuff :-)also, always low on funds. I lost compression in one cylinder and found once apart, that just a valve lapping was not going to cut it. My intakes cleaned up pretty good, but my exhaust were in a sad shape and would not clean up.+ after careful looking with a magnifier I had cracks in two of the seats. Very small cracks but cracks. They appeared old to me and I might of been ok as it was/ but that made my decision for me. New seats were in order.
So I started looking for the tools I might need and soon found the Kwik - Way valve seat insert tool, caution - very expensive - on their site $3,000 bucks new! That was out of the question, so I spent about a week looking on e bay and Craigs list. Found several for around 1,500 or so with lots of attachments, still too steep for me. One Saturday morning on E bay, first image that come up. Is the exact tool I am looking for, it said new never used - buy it now $ 300. bucks. I kept going back to the Kwik Way site to compare and it was the same tool. So I jumped on it, however - it had none of the attachments. I have since then found out the attachments are expensive! But again, I have had good luck finding them on E bay for about half price or less, with a little looking. I would not of been able to do this without this tool and I am very pleased with it. Pictures show the pilot and guide installed to start alignment of the base. starting process


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Philip Berg on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:11 pm:

Don't you have to counterbore the block to install new seats?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:22 pm:

you lightly tighten the base, where you can still move it. Then slide the seat driver over the guide and git it so it slides up and down without binding. Oh yes and you must make sure your pilot and adapter are pressed into the valve guide firmly. When your convinced you've got it right, tighten it down.
Then you pull the driver off, as base is in line with the guide. Now you git your cutter out and it goes down on the adapter. Then you git out the gear case assembly and slide it into position. Make sure the driver dogs engage. Then you turn the large wheel up on the top of the unit until you can put one of your inserts under the wheel, then turn the wheel the other way and clamp the insert lightly. This sets the unit for the depth of the cut. The other wheel is turned until in clicks and that engages the power fed.Then tighten the clamp holding the units shaft,Last pic is the tool ready to cut


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:25 pm:

Yes Phill, that's what this machine does.I type with two fingers, so I am slow at this :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:26 pm:

Yes, you sure do have to do some block boring in order to install the new hardened seats. It's only $250 or so for new valves, seats, adjustable tappets, springs, retainers, pins, and a valve guide reamer.

Any remotely competent machine shop should be able to cut him some new valve seats and for not very much.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Seth from NC on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:27 pm:

Haha, I saw the first part of the post and then my phone rang, hit post and find out the machine cuts the spot for the new seat.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:29 pm:

Here"s the cut done and getting ready to put the new seat insert in. Also showing the cutter + adapter


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:42 pm:

Here"s putting in the seat and done. Using the seat driver and a hammer. I froze the seat insert, as I had read on this forum. I could of had it done, many shops around here in L.A. area. Just like trying to fix my stuff myself, plus almost all my vehicles are flat heads. So I should be able to use it again. The cracks I had were small enough that the cutter took them out. I could not even see them without my magnifier.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:45 pm:

Suddenly my computer will note post photo's, well try the last ones latter, Tom


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 12:50 pm:

Might of been operator error :-)


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money - Braidwood, IL on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 06:58 pm:

What about cutting a larger seat for the larger valves on some of the blocks that don't have large cracks? Does it negate being able to install new seats at a later time?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robbie Price on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 07:26 pm:

I found one of those in the junkyard with a bunch of attachments and the metal box.
20 cents a pound.
I didn't know exactly what is was at the time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Erich Bruckner, Vancouver, WA on Wednesday, September 18, 2013 - 08:14 pm:

Tom, very interesting. Dumb questions now....What is the power source?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Lovejoy, So Cal on Thursday, September 19, 2013 - 12:32 am:

Erich just use any electric drill. Doug I think you could,they have or sell hundreds of sizes of cutters and adaptors. I had some advise me to cut them deeper so the seat sets down in and then Pin the metal around the seat? Don't know about that, my instructions said nothing of doing that. Also on my engine anyways, there is not much metal left down there, mine measured about .250 Thousandths and with cutting the hole down .218 thousandths, I would be afraid to go any deeper. Oh yes, also my press fit was .006 thousandths. My answers are totally novice - first time doing this, so check with guys that now. Before going with my info first :-)Robbie those attachments are worth allot !
I have found that out with the Valve grinder I bought also with no attachments :-( dang.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Robbie Price on Thursday, September 19, 2013 - 05:43 am:

Tom,
The thing is I left a lot of them lying on the ground but I have lots of cutters and guides. I will have to pull them out and see what all I have it has been over a year. Mine isn't as pretty as yours.


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