I am a little concerned about a couple of things in replacing the hogs head after a band-ectomy. There is a lot to do and line up before the gasket goo sets up. The car is a '21 touring, with a '27 engine. Why I did not check the bands when the engine was out of the car was a big mistake.
#1 How difficult is it to line up the clutch fork? Any tips on doing it correct the first time?
#2 How is the felt held in place in front? Glue it in with some silicone gasket goo?
#3 I plan on laying out the gaskets on the pan, and tying them on place with thread. I will use silicone gasket goo on top of the gasket with a little extra in the front and back corners. Any thing wrong with this plan, or ideas of how to do it better?
#1: This IS the tricky part
#3: That sounds like a good plan.
Dental floss will help keep the clutch fork from flipping down and in the way. A helper will help make the job a bit easier.
Here's how I did my gaskets in 2010. It takes more time and patience, but after 3 years, I still have no leaks. Jim Patrick
I prefer Permatex Formagasket number 2, and lots of it. It sets slowly, fills gaps fairly well, and never totally hardens so it can with some effort be gotten off at a later date. Many people prefer silicon, but I had so much problem from silicon reactions to oil years ago, that I never use it near oil.
Especially use a lot of the Permatex above and below the felt.
I have never tried it, but read on here a suggestion to paint the felt between the block and hogshead with paint (black?) or some kind of varnish before running the engine to prevent the felt from wicking out oil.
I have never had much trouble getting the clutch fork to go into place, although I did get one to go into the wrong place once. It was easy to lift an inch and correct. (Look before you lock everything in place) Basically, just reach through the cover opening with one hand to guide the fork into place while doing most of the lifting (dropping?) with the other hand. Once close with the fork in the right place, a little knocking and shaking and they usually drop into place. Note, I said "usually".
As for your question number 3, it sounds like you are on the right track.
A quick comment for others. The earlier aluminum hogsheads generally slip on easier than the later ones (my '13 slipped on so nice a few days ago), however the aluminum hogsheads are VERY easy to break when tightening the bolts. One must be very careful with them.
Drive carefully, and enjoy, W2
Doug, perhaps a better way to hold the pan gaskets in place is to use some of the pan bolts and some cotter pins. Put the bolts in from below, through the gasket holes and hold them there by putting some cotter pins in place in the bolts. You can use whatever gasket goo you prefer. The bolts can be withdrawn as you get the cover down in position, just pull the cotter and withdraw the bolt. I use just two or three bolts each side to hold the gasket in place.
Hope this helps.
Allan from down under.
Check out this thread. I reinstalled my hogshead recently and all I learned (including the answers to your 3 questions) is there along with additional ideas from many forum contributors.
FWIW in my opinion using the felt strip is a bad idea. It does strain the oil that drips on your garage floor though. ;o)
When installing the transmission cover on my 21 Touring I installed the transmission gaskets the night before using silicone sealer and let them set up until dry.
The next day I secured the bands secured together using the band clip. You can also use some type of thread or plastic ties to do this.
Keeping the gaskets from scooting around and the bands squeezed together are the hardest part and when this done the rest works pretty easy.
Bud, in your excellent post, in steps 10 and 11 you refer to the "rear half gasket" being in place. This is the ball cap gasket that goes between the hogshead and the ball cap, correct? Thanks.
For #1, try using a spring type closepin to hold the closed end of the C up. Gravity wants to make it down. Once in place just remove the closepin.
I also used two small blocks of 1" by 2" wood to hold the front corners of the hogshead up while I was getting everything in place. Three foot sections of rope attached to each block made removing them at the right time easy.
I just did this. To hold the clutch fork up while installing, I used bailing wire and tied it off in the proper orientation. Might not have been the best choice in case of fumble-fingers, but it worked for me. Twine might have been a better choice.
Thank you! A lot of good information. I wondered about the felt strip in front, the cork sounds like a better idea. The car passed it's title inspection this morning, I found the DMV will come to your house to do it for an extra $2, normally they charge $10. I will title it at noon. Plan on pulling the trigger on insurance this PM, so I can take my YOM plates to the DMV in Lincoln, the state capital tomorrow (YOM plates have to be inspected before they are accepted). The pressure is on now to get the car running! One of my buddies is having surgery in two weeks that will put him out of commission for weeks and he wants a ride in the T first
Gotta love them 3 door jobs! Soo... this is the 90s after all, so think outside the box.... After everything is scraped and washed CLEAN, a dusting of spray glue will hold the gaskets perfectly in place. Same goes for the felt, which by the way, and by its own nature, needs to be adjustable for varying thicknesses in rail gaskets. The newer ones are paper and the old ones are cork. You don't want to break a hogshead ear off do you? Trim the felt to gasket joint so it looks like its supposed to.
When the cover is ready to go down, apply some anaerobic sealant (looks like grape jelly) into the corners. Permatex and many others make it, and it absolutely will not harden until the oxygen is removed (hence anaerobic) at which point will turn into plastic and can fill as much as a 1/4" gap. What squeezes out will not harden either so you can do a perfect cleanup and the judges will never know... they may knick you a few points tho since the corners aren't leaking oil; mine don't. I still cant figure out what I did wrong. It doesn't leak any oil, gas or water... Hmmm
I was always elected to make the gaskets for the HYDROGEN GAS cooled generators on the steam turbines. NEVER had a leak in 30+ years. ws
For the life of me I just cant figure out what Im doing wrong ????
Yes, it's the gasket between the hogshead and the ball cap. I didn't want to disturb the 4th main so I only undid the top 2 bolts/nut. The lower 2 bolts were left in. I did cut the gasket that came with the hogshead gasket set in half and replaced the top half, leaving the bottom half in place. Hasn't proved to be a problem as there is no oil leakage.
No oil leakage is kinda scarry with a T, so I keep checking the oil level but its always OK ;o)
I have not used the felt on the last several hogshead installations. I use just a bead of "The Right Stuff". I use black on black hogsheads, and grey on aluminum hogsheads. No leaks ever.