New engine diagnostic tool

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: New engine diagnostic tool
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 07:57 am:

Prototype complete and works great. It provides a temporary vacuum port for vacuum diagnostic testing without altering or damaging any original equipment.

Just a couple examples of its use...
Low compression: leaking valves or bad rings?
won't idle: intake manifold leak or carb rebuild?
runs erratically: worn valve guides or weak valve springs?

this tool will diagnose all of these items and more

fits between the carb and intake manifold in just a minute or two without actually removing the carb...just loosen the two bolts and slide it in place.

First production run is about complete


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 09:14 am:

I think I want one of those. How much and where can I get one?
Tim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bill Everett on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 11:01 am:

Scott, like Tim, I think I want one, also. I'm curious, though; how does it sense the difference between the symptoms you've listed?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 11:07 am:

Engines are air pumps and as such are a system of components. How efficiently the engine operates as a pump depends on the condition of it's components.

A perfect engine pulls a steady vacuum through the carb with no variances...and that's the key.

Fluttering, jumping, low vacuum, too high of a vacuum, rythmic jumping, all are indicators of a specific part of the system working sub-optimally. Instructions will come with the tool, but you can search the WEB for "automotive vacuum chart" and see what information this tool can give you...

regards,

scott


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 11:08 am:

and when I said "air", by that I mean "vacuum"...


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By William L Vanderburg on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 01:24 pm:

Is this the kind of chart you're referring to? And if so, would the same parameters still apply?

vacuum chart


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By BRENT MIZE on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 03:20 pm:

Scott,
Great item. Put me down for ones as well.
Thanks,
Brent


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Keith Gumbinger, Kenosha, WI on Friday, September 20, 2013 - 06:02 pm:

Scott - Me too.

Thanks, Keith


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Doug Money - Braidwood, IL on Saturday, September 21, 2013 - 04:33 am:

Can also be used to get the best efficiency out of driving. The higher you keep the vacuum while driving the better the gas mileage.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Saturday, September 21, 2013 - 09:40 am:

How thick is the plate? Do you have to remove the stove pipe to use it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jared Buckert on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 10:47 am:

That's pretty neat. Any idea what they will cost? Do you need to buy a special vacuum gauge to go with it?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Todd on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 11:30 am:

That's an odd gauge in the picture, it is opposite to the ones in the chart. Never seen a vacuum gauge that rotates "backwards".
Maybe it's from Australia?


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary H. White - Sheridan, MI on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 04:19 pm:

Northern Tool
http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200324171_200324171


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary H. White - Sheridan, MI on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 04:26 pm:

Forgot to add; "For those who like dash gages."


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Cascisa - Poulsbo, Washington on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 05:09 pm:

Ken,

Backwards indicating gauges are generally found South of the Equator. :-)

Be_Zero_Be


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By A. J. "Art" Bell on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 06:03 pm:

While I agree that a vacuum gauge is a great tool to have,
I have to question your “NEW engine diagnostic tool” heading on this thread.
It was very common for shop and back yard mechanics to have a vacuum gauge
back in 50’s and 60’s, perhaps even earlier.
Maybe your neat insert plate for the vacuum hose connector is the “new” part.

The dash mounted version was for ‘leadfoot’ drivers to get better gas mileage.
Keep it in the “Green” to save some $Green$




I haven’t seen my Snop-On version for a long time –
Wonder who I loaned it to ??

Regards
Art


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Moorehead on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 07:04 pm:

Would a tapped hole in the intake manifold
connected to a vacuum gauge give the same results, or does the position of the source have an effect on the results? Would it isolate specific problems if located at the carburetor flange as in your sample?
Thanks


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 07:21 pm:

As long as the vacuum tube pickoff point is after the carburetor butterfly then you have manifold vacuum in the hose and that vacuum generally increases as the carb butterfly closes. On many of the 50's era Ford cars there was also a vacuum tap ahead of the carb butterfly and that was venturi vacuum which increased with carburetor opening since when the carb butterfly was closed there is very little air going past that venturi. That venturi vacuum was used to modulate the distributor advance diaphragm. The manifold vacuum is often used for windshield wiper power and also commonly used on modern cars for cruise control power and control. GM cars generally used weights in the dizzy for spark advance control but Ford used vacuum from both venturi and manifold in combination to determine spark advance on my '55 Ford Y Block engine. It also had a vacuum pump built into the fuel pump to create vacuum when the engine didn't have any while going up a hill.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By John F. Regan on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 07:29 pm:

As long as the vacuum tube pickoff point is after the carburetor butterfly then you have manifold vacuum in the hose and that vacuum generally increases as the carb butterfly closes. On many of the 50's era Ford cars there was also a vacuum tap ahead of the carb butterfly and that was venturi vacuum which increased with carburetor opening since when the carb butterfly was closed there is very little air going past that venturi. That venturi vacuum was used to modulate the distributor advance diaphragm. The manifold vacuum is often used for windshield wiper power and also commonly used on modern cars for cruise control power and control. GM cars generally used weights in the dizzy for spark advance control but Ford used vacuum from both venturi and manifold in combination to determine spark advance on my '55 Ford Y Block engine. It also had a vacuum pump built into the fuel pump to create vacuum when the engine didn't have any while going up a hill.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By A. J. "Art" Bell on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 08:19 pm:

Something that most likely know but just in case, keep in mind the
gauge readings will be different at sea level than they are at inland
higher altitudes. Figure in a drop of approximately one inch for every
1000 foot rise in altitude.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Gary H. White - Sheridan, MI on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 08:28 pm:

John, That 55 ford tea pot carb/dist vacumm set up caused me all kinds of headaches till I dumped that *&$**@# carb and put on a Holly.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Ken Kopsky, Lytle TX on Sunday, September 22, 2013 - 08:35 pm:

I remember my Dad having a vacuum gauge mounted under the dash of the families' new 57 Plymouth station wagon. We (family of six) traveled the nation in that car with Dad always mindful of the speedometer and vacuum gauge. When we weren't playing Highway Bingo, we took turns watching the gauge. :-)

You don't need a very large hole for vacuum port either. A small 1/8" tube pressed into a hole is more than enough. Holes get big when you start adding fittings. The hole can be in the mounting flange of the carb or intake manifold. Just cap the tube when not in use.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Monday, September 23, 2013 - 06:31 am:

Ken
the stove pipe usually needs to be loosened, but not removed

Jared
PM sent to you

William
yes, that chart would apply


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Scott Conger on Monday, September 23, 2013 - 12:01 pm:

Tom
drilling a hole in the intake manifold would accomplish the same thing, but why disfigure or alter an original part? At least that was my thought in creating this tool.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Moorehead on Monday, September 23, 2013 - 10:34 pm:

Scott
Understood. I was just trying to make certain I was not missing something by the different location. Mr. Reagans description satisfied my curiosity. It is a neat deal you have come up with.


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