I'm new to the model t world, trying to fix a flat and then remove the wheel from the car. I'm restoring a 23 touring. .
Some remove the tire with their bare hands. I prefer to use tire irons - I get mine at a motorcycle shop.
For Clincher rims you will probably also need to break the seal of the bead on the rim. I change tires with the wheel on the car. I use a large C-clamp to do this. Then, the tire irons to lift one bead over the rim. Once one bead is free, then I free the other bead to the same side.
For Demountable Clincher Rims The process is similar. I would leave the rim on the car to hold it better.
For Split-Ring Demountable tires , we need advice from someone who has done those.
Removing the wheel from the car is different for the fronts and the rears. Fronts are straight forward, just remember one side has left hand threads. Rears can be a hassle and the hub cap thread mounted hub puller is highly recommended.
Are your wheels Clinchers, Demountable or wire ones.
sorry, had to run by the store to get some jack stands, i have a picture but it wont load up. wood stem wheel 22in has 4 screws that hold the tire/rim to the wheel(4bolts and screw). I know how to take modern tires of cars manually. But the tire seem to go way under the rim, just didnt want to destroy the tire. thx
Resize the picture so that it is smaller than 195K, then it should upload.
Here is a thread with a picture sequence of clincher tire installation while the wheel is on the car:
Thanks, now I will go out and try it. Thx for the link y'all been great help. The Texas Iceman
As the saying goes, welcome to the affliction. Here are a couple of links for folks new to the Model T world.
From your description ("the tire seem to go way under the rim") it sounds like you have demountable clinchers, like this.
A handy hint for mounting and demounting tires: warm tires are much easier to work with than cold tires. I lay mine out in the sun before mounting.
Thanks, Thomas Mullin for the c clamp suggestion it really helped. The tire was about 27 yrs old and wanted to saved it so i can still drive it and until i get my new ones. Great pics and links, Steve Jelf, I still don't understand how to get the tire/rim off the wheel. I took off the 4 bolts and nuts, but don't know what to do next to demount them.
Once you have the nuts off the wheel should pull right off if you grab it so the tire stem is at 12 and your hands are at 4 and 8 on the face of a clock but first you need to unscrew the valve stem cover and then unscrew the nut that it was resting on. Some people do it reverse with the valve stem at the bottom and their hands at 10 and 2 but it really doesn't matter. Once the rim stars to come off you should push it up ( or down if the stem is at the bottom) as you continue to pull it towards you until the valve stem comes out of the hole. You may need to bang the rim a bit with a rubber mallet from behind if it has been in place for a long time.
I don't know of any 22" wheels. If you have demountables like Steve posted above, they are either 30x3 1/2 (23in wheel)clinchers (no split rim) or 30x3 1/2 straight sided tires with split rims (unlikely)or 21's which were demountable split rim, straight sided. On all demountables take off the lug nuts and bump from the back with a rubber hammer. You need the rim off the wheel to remove the tire from a split rim, while it's easier to remove the tire with the wheel on the car if it's a clincher.
Thanks, Val and Mike will try it again tomorrow with a rubber mallet.