Our 1912 has original rods in it, since the crank broke I'm looking at going everything so is their a difference in the later rods.
The later rods are lighter. I don't remember the year, but I believe it was sometime after 1919.
I'm not sure how much difference it makes as long as all four are the same. If you are going to put in lighter rods, I'd suggest you put in aluminum pistons, too.
: ^ )
Early rods were heavier. Later lighter rods would give less strain on your new crankshaft. You must send the lightest type (1920 on) as exchange to the vendors if you buy babbitted rods from them.
Here's from the encyclopedia: http://www.mtfca.com/encyclo/E.htm#eng1
"1915: Connecting rods redesigned for lighter weight. Babbitt now 1/16" thick instead of 1/8"."
"1920: New light-weight rod with 1/16" babbitt introduced."
Roger is correct. The vendors wont take the older rods for exchange.
You can tell by looking at them to see the difference fairly easy. On any T rebuild it just makes common sense to use aluminum pistons and the lighter style rods.
Unless you have a real tight budget that's the way to go.
The most important thing is to have all 4 rods the same. The later lighter weight ones are best, but all 4 should be balanced. I have actually found on one of my engines 3 different type rods! The car had a knock when I got it and I pulled the cover off to adjust the bearings and found the different type rods. I put new repoured rods in it.
Here is a photo from:
Light on left, heavy on right
More photos at the original thread.
I just sent 4 rods to Ron's in Ohio for exchange and they charged me for two cores because I sent two light rods and two heavy ones. I got the heavy ones back.
Maybe if I find two more I can have somebody rebabbit the set some day.
Even in the heavy rods, there is 2 types. Colin, you should have the Dodge Brother's being a 1912 if the originals are still in it, I know most will not bother with them mainly I think because they take some stuffing around to re-pour, well that is the case with my moulds. I have done them for a early T that was for originality.
Thank you I learn something new every day we have aluminum pistons now Dad installed them about 1965.
Aaron, do you need heavy rods or lightweight rods? I have some extra lightweight cores if that what you need. I doubt if I have any heavy rods, though.
I think there is a rod in between the two pictured above. Not as heavy as the early one, but not as light as the later one.
I have some heavy ones if anyone needs them.
There is a very early rod used in 1909, that has a step in it where the two halves come together. If anyone has any of those, Kim Dobbins could use some.
The older we get the heavier everything gets
what year these fit?
I don't think that's a T rod. No pinch bolt at the top. Looks like a 28 AR Model A rod to me but I dunno for sure.
Same journal size as T, part #T487A2
Oscar, That is a late 27 connecting rod. some of those connecting rods also came with aluminum pistons.
Mike, don't think so, no pinch bolt as Stan said. Do a little more research all. o.g.
Mike is correct! Special pistons
What held late model pins in place? Show me. o.g.
I'm with Mike - I have a full set w/aluminum pistons and the floating wrist pin is held in place with c-clips within the piston - not outside as usual.
Here are previous posts on the late 'X' T rods
Correction: a single c-clip is in the top center of the rod.
Correct. C clip in the center of the rod hold the wrist pin in place. I've got a set, Don't know what I'm gonna do with them, but I have a set. I guess keep them out of the hands of the horders.
Egge makes a piston for those rods but they are flat tops, If you shave a head a whole bunch you can make it like the model A's. I have also bushed them down to T pistons but you need to machine the pistons for C clips to hold wrist pin in and shorten the wrist pins, also either machine the piston for side travel or narrow the rod at the wrist pin. They are light so if you want to push the R's a little more they are worth the time installing!
Good information every one, I had thought of having pistons machined to use these but don't know if worth the effort. Good conversation pieces though! o.g.
That is a very late T rod Stan!
I think that I've still got the email from Egge that they sent me stating the part # of the pistons that they sell for the X rods, if anyone is interested.
Please forward to me, Terry - thanks !
I sent Steve a personal message, but I thought that I ought to tell everyone that the email from Egge to me did not state a part number for the X rod pistons. The did say that they thought they had something that I could use, but they requested some additional information. I have a set of the X rods, but didn't get around to using them.
Should be able to use a standard piston with a thick wall bushing.