I out about 20 miles on the '27 T today and then it ran low on gas and died (less than 1 gallon left) so I refilled from gas can and it stalled and my carb was dry. This is the 2nd time it has happened with a brand new NH carb. Can someone take a peek at my fuel line arrangement and see if I have a bad set-up? I have a sediment bowl, filter and pipe to carb.
I'll take any suggestions- what would cause my stalling? I have a Viton-tipped needle...could that be an issue?
Why do you have a filter?
Sometimes in-line gas filters can inhibit the flow of fuel if there is not enough pressure.
If your tank is full, there is enough pressure. If there is less than a gallon, it might not be enough pressure.
If you take the gas line off the carburetor with only one gallon, how is the fuel flow?
Then check it without the filter in place.
You might try a filter with less resistance, if you truly need a filter.
: ^ )
For the improved models doesn't the handle have to be in the sideways position for it to be "on"?
Check to make sure the vent hole in gas cap is not blocked. Its a very small hole and best viewed when cap is held up to a light.
The handle on the valve is in the correct position, however if this is a repro valve, some of them had the hole inside the valve drilled off to one side and the valve handle has to be slightly to one side to have full flow. So you need to check to be sure the gas really flows best with that position of the valve. Since it ran until it got low, I don't think the position of the hole is a problem, but it could be.
You also don't need both a sediment bowl and a filter. There should be a fine screen in the sediment bulb which will catch any particles too big to go through the needle valve.
I think the low pressure at low fuel level combined with the filter is your problem. Try it without the filter and see if that will cure your problem. From time to time, open the petcock and drain some fuel from the sediment bulb and from the float of the carburetor. Catch the gas in a clean container and see if it has dirt or rust particles in it. If so, you might need to clean and seal the tank.
I have had bad gas from a station before. It will run fine right after filling but after the car is parked for a while, the water settles to the bottom of the tank and when it gets to the carburetor, it will kill the engine. When that happens drain the sediment bowl and the bowl of the carb and it will run fine again.
Anyway, those are some of the suggestions I have and would start first by filling the tank and see if it runs as good as before. Then if you still have the problem remove the filter and try again.
The handle needs to be down for "on" position but I am glad you are asking, I am always open to new ideas.
I thought a fuel filter would catch some bits of stuff and be a good idea but, If I am potentially slowing fuel and guys don't think I need one- I am open to a straight line to the carb.
Thanks Norman- I'll pop the filter off and see if all goes well. My sediment bowl looks original by the nicks and patina- but it could also be older so I'll check for the screen as well.
I probably have to drain the tank to get at the screen....I'll have to think on that procedure. But very good idea and point.
A good way to isolate the problem when it happens is to:
Open the drain on the bottom of the sediment bowl to see if flow is restricted out of the tank. If ok there...
Break the line at the inlet of the carburetor and check the flow there. If not, the screen or filer is likely the problem. If ok there...
Check to see if the carb inlet is free and that the float valve is opening.
Also Norm's suggestion of using a clean container at the sediment bowl and carburetor drain will give an indication a possible cause of the problem and any need for the added filtering.
Thanks Jim- I'll give it a try this week.
BTW- does anyone have a spare brass inlet fuel elbow for a Holley NH?
The one I am using doesn't thread in well or deeply. Just wanted to ask- I am willing to pay for it naturally.
Any moisture at all will cause those filters to quit, it may have some water from sitting or from the gas the paper filters will stop the flow completely.
Keith is right. I had the same problem with my 26 sedan. Loose the filter as it is your problem. Be sure you have the fine screen inside the sediment bowl.
If your tank is clean, don't worry too much about the screen. I have run my 27 coupe 50 years without one.
Throw the filter out.
It restricts the flow.
I have had that problem on several gravity feed cars.
Fuel vapour lock, that fuel line is awfully close to the manifold?
Norm I believe has the best answer. If you need a fine mesh replacement screen for the sediment bowl, the vendors sell one for the Model A that does fit the T bowl...maybe a little long... but does work.
Replace the lead gasket on the "big" nut, new metal line, should do it.
To get to the screen just shut the fuel off at the valve ( horizontal position ), and open sediment bowl at big nut. Grab a metal container to catch gas as you open the valve to flush out bowl innards, close valve then discard caught gas. May see some dark sandy crap, thats what clogs screen. Clean screens are just that.... no blockages... see thru.
Thanks for the tips- Bob, I'll be cleaning my bowl this week on your rec! Thanks!
Get rid of the copper gas line. When I tightened the original style nut tight enough to stop the drip, the soft copper gas line had compressed so much that a round tooth pick would not go through the pipe. The small area severely restricted the gas flow, as does that gas filter that is normally used on a line with a fuel pump to push the gas through it.
I guess I can buy some 1/4" brake line for a tube instead of copper. Thanks!
James G. has a good idea, plus the soft copper line will crack over time, causing more devastating problems.
On the 26/27 use a copper line and flare fittings, the compression fittings crush the tube and since you only have about 8" it wont flex and crack over time like the underseat tanks.
The shorter the fuel line is from the tank to the engine the more damage the flexing will do.
ESPECIALLY on the '26-27 you need a steel fuel line.
I agree with Aaron, need steel line. Copper will anneal and crack over time from vibration
Our '26 Runabout, ball type shutoff added after sediment bowl, steel gas line.
You might want to get a set of tube bending springs when you start forming your new fuel line. They are very useful in preventing kinks in the tube when you bend it. I bought mine at Sears years ago. Home Depot has them for $4.74.
I followed the shape of the original line. Used steel brake line with pre-formed ends and connectors.
I could have cut & flared ends myself, chose the made to length tubing
James: Is that a Wilmo or Anderson intake/exhaust manifold on your engine ??
Why yes- yes it is. It is a combined intake and exhaust manifold.
Wilmo that is.