Hi: Getting ready to order my adjustable tappets. Ive never used the 2 wrench ones. Ive always used the 3 wrench ones because I remember the 2 wrench style does not stay adjusted as long. Maybe they have improved them since I was working on Ts for about 10 years. Thanks... Donnie...
I have used both styles with no real issues other then normal wear. I would suggest which ever type you use, having the lifter bosses trimmed down. It will make adjustment a heck of a lot easier.
I prefer 3 wrench. Harder to adjust ( only slightly). But won't ever creep out of adjustment
Mark, could you explain what you mean by trimming down the lifter bosses?
Hi: I think he is talking about the cast iron lifter boss that is part of the block. When using the adjustable lifters the lock nuts are hidden inside the lifter guide(boss) area of the block. You have to test the gap and then turn the engine to expose the lock nuts to adjust and then turn the engine again to re check. Some people machine off some of the valve guide(lifter boss) area of the block so the nuts are always exposed. I have never done it myself so are there any suggestion as to machining techniques. Thanks.. Donnie..
Donnie is correct. Best way I can tell you how it's done is, the block is mounted flat on the milling machine valve chamber up and a side cutting mill is run past the bosses taking cuts off till the desired amount is removed.
OK I understand the post so, Ok where do I get
adjestable lifters?? I Have milled all ports,
pressed seats, new OD stem valves but NO bodys got
adj lifters, all suppliers says back order. dont tell me I gotta do that V8 thing, grind, check, grind,
check all day for one????
Looks at the supplier link on the home page there are a lot of "other" suppliers than the main ones.
Quite a while ago Frank Harris posted an easy way to adjust valves by counting the flats. It might be what you are looking for.
Here's Frank's method: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/29/29384.html?1179109985
I cut down the bosses on my 1915 and 1919 engines with a hand held angle grinder. It doesn't have to be perfect, just so as it clears the adjusters.
: ^ )
What is the advantage of adjustable on a stock T if that is what you are talking about. I have never had trouble filing for clearance. How many times do you have to re adjust? I never do have to until the next rebuild and have driven thousands of miles. o.g.
If it becomes necessary to do any valve work prior to a complete rebuild, the adjustable lifters (or tappets) are very nice to have. Also, in the even that you mistakenly grind too much off of a valve stem, the only way to "correct" is to alter either the valve face or the valve seat and neither is a very good option. In this case, the adjustable lifter makes such a mistake as grinding too much off of a valve stem a "non-issue".
Actually, in thinking about this, there is one other thing that makes adjustable lifters a nice feature. Given enough time and miles, the stock lifters, hammering against the valve stems can often "dish out" the top of the lifter. In fact, in an engine rebuild with re-use of the stock lifters commonly entails grinding the top of dished out lifters to flatten them or, replacement of the lifters with new ones. This is necessary as "dished-out" lifter tops makes it rather difficult to measure and adjust valve lash by use of a feeler gage. Again, adjustable lifters eliminate this problem and make valve lash adjustment a very quick and simple matter. Okay,.....I'll just say that I think adjustable lifters are a great idea and I'll shut-up now,.......harold
1.Lock nut lifters are made at Bob's in Rockford, Il., they are the only lock nut type, and are the best.
2. All lifters have to be Butt on both ends.
3. Don't Mutilate a block by shorting tower height, they don't have enough wear surface to begin with.
4. Adjust the valves with out the valve springs.
4.-A. You do NOT need to use three wrenches on the lifters if at first you wire wheel the bolt threads, and oil them.
5. Point the cam toe straight down, toward the pan rails, before adjusting.
6. Use a small light spring and put the valve through it and put it in the block.
7. The lifters should have a sticky wheel bearing grease on them on the lifter body, as it helps to hold the lifter up while pushing the lifter body side ways with the wrench. Adjust the lifter, and push down the valve and check the clearance, repeat until the gap is right.
Lifters Butt, on Both ends P
Valve up out of the way, just got done adjusting first valve lifter.
My fathers "jig" from the 30s comes in handy. Its
no more than square stock with a welded pipe the
size of a valve stem that is C clamped to the grinder. My problem is with new hard seats and stainless valves i got more than .040 lash. I rather not grind valves or seats cause I have them perfect.
Then I got a brain flash; Lincoln Y block truck engines have exhaust rotator cups. I found only
a couple in the junk draw go to napa they cant find a p/n. Shot in the dark an in town race car shop, I bring my valve told the story, he said Oh
you need these. Cups plus shims (little disks)
sold in 8 packs. (another words I need longer valves) now these bring me back to -0- lash. I tell ya I walked 50 miles back & forth to the grinder. Nice thing, one I went couple thou too much so just add a shim (disk). all lash done with
no springs next relashed with springs. Third we
spun the cam about 100 rpm as simulating the engine running. I figure this runs it in. We also
run the run in the the whole engine. quiet as as
anyone got an quick idea how to fire this up on
the floor. Or buy on ebay a 26-27 coil box???
or solder wires on some coils, I have many coils.
then garden hose it, let her run all day.
I Butt both ends of a set of Model T lifters today and took some pictures of both ends.
I made 3 passes on the stone and took a picture showing valve end, and Cam end.
This is not unique to any lifters, valve surface, valve Butts, ring gap, ect.
It is up to the builder, and or the mechanic to check these parts for touch up.
This is why some have had lifters go out of adjustment and have had bad wear patterns on cam and lifters.
You can't expect much when high spots have to be worn off.
Herm, newbie question, are Model T lifters supposed to be flat, or are they supposed to have a slight crown on the end that rides on the cam lobe?
Should new lifters be spot faced on both ends before use, or are they good to go out of the box?
Yes, Model T lifters should be flat, both ends. The same with the butt on the valve.
No they are not ground to be any other way.
Even if they were, they are all different.
Thanks Mark, Herm.
I'll stick my neck out to say, New with new, new
with old or old with old all have to get run in.
after awhile, its like wiggling your butt in a
seat, once you are comfortable and happy its the
same thing, only to reset the lash again like dirt
in a bucket add water and tamp thats the final adjustment.
whopps, I hit wrong button, too bad I cant edit on this site. several yrs ago I made up a lapper attachment for a shaper. Thats what I use all the time mostly for modern junk using progresevely course to fine to the car compound 3m stuff
try again no clue how to make 200 kilbytets.
It worked before??????
Are you going to be alright Samuel, or should we send an Ambulance.