The Encyclopedia describes 1909-1915 springs:
All taper-leaf. 7 leaves in the front. 8 leaves in the rear, except for the 1911 Torpedo which used 7. Several types appeared. In one the spring clip was riveted to the leaf, with the bolt running under the spring. On another, the leaf was curled upwards and the clip bolt passed through the curl above the spring. Still another used a separate clip assembly.
Spring perch bushings were “X” bronze from 1909 to about 1912; seamed brass or bronze tubing from late 1911 to mid-1914; and steel from 1914 to 1927. The 1/4” oil hole was added in 1915.
This spring partially fits the description, being tapered and having the clip bolt through a curled end. It's 2" wide like all the others, and lacks the 1/4" oil holes that were in later springs.
But it's about an inch and a half longer than the standard spring, and it has nine leaves. Is it really a Ford spring? Anybody recognize it?
It appears as though there is one leave that is "doubled" up - the two that are closest together - otherwise it appears to be a Ford spring, perhaps a bit tired to account for the extra length ?
I suspect that the broken center bolt is allowing the bottom leaves to spread, which might account for the extra length. The idea that leaves #3 and #4 are duplicates occurred to me too, but the clip seems to fit just right with both of them in there.
A custom made clip made many years ago? They're easy to make.
Try bolt it together without the doubled leaf, I think it'll be closer to stock width when tightened in the center.
Looks like a mix-n-match to me. There is definitely a duplicate spring, maybe added because of the extra weight which caused the spring to spread.
If you remove the duplicate spring and slide the spring clip up it will fit nicely too. I assume it is not riveted to the spring so it can slide it further toward the center where the springs are thicker. It clearly looks like the spread is because the extra spring is arched the same as the one above it so when the center bolt is tightened it will spread the spring. The springs were designed to nestle one onto the other and can't do that with the extra leaf.
Dis-assemble the leaves, paint some slip paint from Lang's (www.modeltford.com/item/3800P.aspx) between the leaves and re-assemble, using a grade 8 bolt through the center and double nut. That way it will be lubricated and the ends will pull up close together as the bottom leaf seats into the leaf above it. Should be a good spring, but with the extra leaf may have less bounce and be firmer than an original spring with the correct number of leaves. Jim Patrick
No, the clip won't slide. On these early springs the clip bolt passes through the curled end of a leaf. If you study the picture closely you can see it. I plan to remove the extra leaf and make new clips to fit. As Roger says, they're easy to make.
Some "early" springs had a curled leave end that was actually part of the spring clip, thus appearing to be upside down compared to later springs - is that the case with this one, Steve or is the clip entirely a separate part ?
Maybe a spring for a wide track with an extra leaf. Any wide track owners out there with the spring dia.
It was probably a beefed up spring that was on a car running gear that had a truck type body on it, that was hauling heaver loads.
The spring clip is right as the bolt goes through the spring as it has a rolled eye on the springs end.
It only has one extra leaf in it, other wise it is a normal rear spring.
After reading very good reports on the forum about UHMW tape, that's what I'm using between leaves.
This front spring picture clearly shows the curled leaf end for the spring clip bolt.
If you have a good authentic spring, you shouldn't be able to light between the leaves when compressed. Be sure to use that nice original bolt. They aren't easy to find.
Many of the original early springs have clips that are l additional leaf to be inserted. I bet that your clips are originals from 1912 - 15 era, and like everyone else I believe it is an original spring.
It needs to be re - arched, otherwise the rear tires are going to be way up in the fenders low rider style when you remove the extra leaf.
I used UHMW tape from McMaster-Carr over 5 years ago. Works great and you never have to lube it.
I have a 15 touring wide track. It has 8 leaves in the rear spring.
I went with a smear of synthetic grease and powdered graphite, a little messy but wipes up with lacquer thinner... no squeeks, no rust, no worry.
FYI. For purists that only want to do it the way Ford did it, the following thread from 2006, contains the original slip paint formula published by Ford for one to make his own gen-u-ine Model T slip paint. Jim Patrick