Getting close engines almost finished. My engine
came in pieces (boxes). Question, it came with the
typical external oil line (from the mag) to where?
It was on this engine by the previous owner. The
way copper tubing is bent, its fine thread adaptor
goes thru the second hole thru the block and the
crank case. So it will dump oil on the ground??
It should go into the timing cover somewhere, but
where. I'm just going by the way its bent. Should
I drill & tap the cover for this.
As it is, it makes no sense to me. sam
move over one more bolt, the one beside the crankshaft, that runs the oil into the pan.
Thanks I just found a pic googling it. That now makes sense. Problem is the pipes too short for
that hole, so Im going for clear tubing.
sam - get a tubing extender.
Thy are available from a reputable Asian company with a website named " want your money.com" for only $5.99 plus $25.25 shipping.
PLASTIC HOSE??? Cut the tubing at the front and place a 3/8 tubing union in the line. Better yet spend the $5.00 and get a new piece of tubing. ws
Not to drift but I can tell you haven't priced copper and brass fittings lately. Was just at the hardware store yesterday getting some pieces for a torch. Man, what used to be a buck and half or less is now over five bucks! A simple 1/8" NPT coupling was $4.59. I asked the lady at the counter why the prices were so high. She replied; "because of the Eagle Ford oil boom". I felt like asking the same question again but stayed silent.
I can't imagine the oil drillers using 1/8" NPT fittings so I guess it's just the locals getting greedy when there's money around.
That was an advantage to working at a power plant with dummies for 30 years. They didn't know a 1/8 union from a 3/4" 90, soooo, theyd go to the fitting racks and get a box full of stuff to make it "work". All the junk was checked out and considered scrap. If I was a good boy theyd let me clean the shop on Saturday and Id be on my way home with pockets overflowing with fittings and fasteners. Fortunately. it was before the chinaman or the texas oil barons' were on the scene, and we just used old Parker Hannifin, and Swagelock stuff.
Yes, nowadays, the chinaman has invaded the homo depot and you pay 5X what their junk is worth; (I try to use Fastenal,) notwithstanding, failure/downtime. BTW, any ol' roustabout will use a 1/8 pipe as a ladder rung, so that's one busted fitting that doesn't get greased. I always try to recycle/repurpose stuff unless its for potable issues.
Now, since Royces blood is boiling about the chinaman comment, go buy a Chinese 1" 90, thread two six inch long nipples into it, and check it with a square. While youre at it, take a MIC and measure the wall thickness in a few spots. Any doubts, look up "The Pipefittters Handbook" for tolerances. Now put that on a 2500 PSI hydraulic line. Just food for thought...
thanks, I called a local- down the street, Gen III all they do is "Ts", they told me just what ya all say;
this pipe goes into the bolt hole next to the front
crank oil seal. OK whats that do, oil just goes into the sump. My plan Is, drill and tap into the timing cover & and weld or solder a something pipe as to drip directly in the front main bearing hole. Maybe
Ill make a fork pipe, a little drip on the gear, and more drip for the front main. I will succeed.
Dang... re-invent the wheel too. Run an oil pump off the generator and force feed a spray at each rod and main. Put an inline filter in there while yer at it.
I've seen a T on a tour burn up the front bearing on a steep hill. I'll keep my mag post oiler AND the oiler on the right side of the hogshead. When the front end is pointing up, more oil is in the sump to be pushed into the tube to the front main.
I'll take a pic when I figure out the bends in this
pipe located internally. Then of course I'll bench
test it to aim this pipe aiming at the front main
oil hole with my oil can. Then I read about many
have made a scoop somewhere where the line comes out of the mag pick up. I read somebody drilled and tapped through and screwed this scoop on (from the
inside) and peened the tops of the screws on the
outside, looks like origional rivits.
anyone got a pic of this scoop??? sam
I think I have a scoop and line hanging around. You are welcome to it. I can't vouch for the condition of the tube, but I think the scoop is in good kit.
I like the one where you tap in to the flywheel housing on the hog's head. The magnets on the fly wheel act as paddles and shove the oil forward to the left side of the engine to the front timing gear box. From there it gets back to number one rod bearing and works its way back to the other rods. It's the thing that Henry forgot to put on his car. The Old Faithful oiler on top of the hog's head is actually on the wrong side of the cover plate because the drums are rotating the wrong way back there. Some oil does get up to the front of the engine and it is usually plumbed to spray on the front rod as it swings about doing its job.
The vendors sell a scoop that fits on top of the hog's head and those work better than the mag post oilers do. Grabbing oil from the flywheel is much better than getting it from the transmission drums farther back in the assembly moving parts.