Timing question

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: Timing question
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Rick Goelz-Knoxville,TN on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 04:41 pm:

My 24 has a T ignition system, Coilman coils, R V Anderson mag ring, Anderson style timer, i also have the timing kit that Tony Bowker makes. Following the instructions #1 at TDC, test light wired to #1 timer wire at coil box other to the battery connection at coil box, timer rod disconnected, turn the engine until it is at 15Degrees ATDC, turn the timer until the light just comes on and supposedly this is where you re-connect the timing rod at this setting it won't run, now should there be a different setting for the Anderson timer, it has been firing with the exhaust partly open.Someone must have experience with the Anderson timer that can tell me what i am doing wrong, i am just about to put a distributor on it.

Rick


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 05:03 pm:

Which way are your turning the timer until the light just comes on? You would need to be turning it clockwise (as viewed from the front of the car, not from inside the car.). That method should work with any timer. Of course, the timing lever has to be all the way up while you are doing this.

The other thing about that method is, any slop in the timer linkage can play havoc. Just because the rod will go in the timer in that position, doesn't mean the timer will return to that position once it has been advanced. You need to check again after advancing and retarding the timer.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By ex trooper on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 05:07 pm:

If its firing with exhaust starting to open its +180 crank degrees (+90 cam degrees) outa time.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Jim Thode Chehalis Washington on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 05:52 pm:

The timing set at 15 ATDC should be fine. Some folks run it closer to TDC but anything after TDC should get you started.

An easy way to check the timing includes:

1. Tune engine till it is coming up on the #1 compression stroke (not
#1 exhaust stroke).

2. Turn slowly till #1 coil starts buzzing or till your test light goes out.

3. Check the position of the crankshaft pin. It should be between the 9:00 - 3:00 and the 9:30 - 3:30 position. (9:00 - 3:00 is TDC and 9:30 - 3:30 is 15 ATDC)

Don't give up, it is simple.
Jim


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 08:41 pm:

To make sure that #1 is actually at TDC on the compression stroke remove the #1 spark plug. Watch through the hole with a flashlight to make sure both the intake and exhaust valves are closed as the piston moves upward. Then with a small drinking straw or coffee stir stick (McDonalds for either one) you can feel the piston coming up as you pull the hand crank upward slowly.

When the piston gets to TDC you will feel the crank move but the piston will briefly not move. When the piston starts downward it is on the power stroke.

The spark should be set with the piston slightly down from TDC on the power stroke.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Dan Treace, North FL on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 08:51 pm:

Do as Jim posted, take your time.

Here is the gage placed.



Now all set, lead set to coil, and engine cranked to 15 degrees past TDC on #1. Note the LED lamp is lit.



Set the timer rod now to the timer case with the spark rod fully retarded.



Final check is the old way...note the crank pin location....right on for timing the Ford. Photo taken at the same time the LED light lit.



Crank pin straight is TDC, so you want the spark to occur 15 degrees past.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Royce in Dallas TX on Wednesday, October 02, 2013 - 10:33 pm:

There's no way to see the crank pin without removing the radiator or at least the crank. Not real convenient. Especially for my early cars where the crank is riveted to the crank ratchet.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 09:25 am:

Remove the fan belt from the lower pulley and look at the pulley pin holes if you cannot see the pulley pin straight on


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Hal Davis-SE Georgia on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 12:46 pm:

On the '17-'22 Models you can see on either side of the starting crank, but you gotta get on your knees to see it. The radiator apron on the '23 - '27 Models blocks the view.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Mark Strange on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 01:36 pm:

That's what flashlights and inspection mirrors are for.....

mirror01


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Steve Jelf, Parkerfield KS on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 02:49 pm:

Good grief, people! I don't get it. On an early car without an apron, or even a later car without an apron, it's easy to look in under the radiator and see the crank pin. It should be especially easy for Catholics and Episcopalians, who are used to kneeling.


A handy hint: approaching TDC, slowly pull the crank to point straight down; the pin is then horizontal.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Bob Jablonski on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 04:15 pm:

Steve:



AMEN !!!!!! See, one does learn something going to church !!!


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tim Wrenn on Thursday, October 03, 2013 - 08:12 pm:

When I timed mine, once I got the pin exactly horizontal, I "carved" a fine, small groove on the top of the pully so as to be able to see easier standing up. And I'm Catholic, so I can kneel too!!


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