Took my running gear out for a little drive last pm as am waiting for the painting to be finished on the body.
Noticed the exhaust pipe was starting to glow red it was so hot. Up near where it was connected to the manifold.
I was in low gear the entire time because I stayed in my neighborhood.
The engine was huffing and puffing hot when I parked it. This was after about a 15 min ride.
Is this normal for a t? The moto meter had the red line pretty much in the middle of the window.
Advance the spark.
Yes and no. My manifold can glow a dull red now and again, depending on my carb settings. I would try and lean out the carb mixture just a bit. It may not be an issue once you get out on the road and into high gear.
Leaning your carb out will get it glowing - sounds like you are running too lean as it is. Try richening the mixture a bit. Definitely advance spark as far as possible (until she misses a bit, then back off a notch or two until she smooths out).
Not sure what you mean by "middle of the window" on the Boyce. You should be below (well below) the large dividing line that runs across the face of the Boyce.
You are running too lean, definitely don't lean it out any more. I'd richen (counter-clockwise turn) the mixture about an 1/8 to 1/4 turn. And yes, make sure you always advance the spark as far as possible (without causing knock). Try not to run it red though cause you can crack your manifold doing that.
The last possibility I can think of is if your exhaust valves aren't closing well that can cause the same problem. I'd drive it again making sure to richen the mixture and advance the spark before checking the compression and valve lash.
Also, moto-meters can be all over the place. The main way that they help you is when you see it start climbing for no good reason, it's time to shut it off and figure out what is wrong.
Ok. I'll give it another go this pm. I was not aware of advancing the spark that much.
What I have been doing while at idle is adjusting the mixture unlit it sounds like the highest rpm. And then doing the same with the spark.
I'd start from zero as a baseline on your carb. Turn to full seat on the needle valve (do not muscle it in and score the needle or seat) and from there, open 1 full turn. That should be ample (more than ample) for starting. Mine runs best at 3/4s a full turn off full seat (but every T will be different). What you describe above as "highest RPM" on mixture is consistent with a VERY lean setting. Pretty certain that is the source of your glowing.
Once she's going, advance until the knock, then back off a couple of notches until the knock disappears.
Additionally, there is no way a neighborhood drive should require low gear the whole time. I'm in high gear before I'm 1/2 way through an intersection.
I richen my mixture until it runs rough, then lean it until the roughness JUST goes away. Some note the position of the roughness on the lean and rich side and set it half way between. That may give better mileage, but I'd rather risk running too rich than running too lean.
Hmmmm. Ok. That makes sense.
Hi: I just had the same type of problem. I had my exhaust glowing red all the way to the muffler. Two things can cause it, bad timing, or too lean. Some of the causes could be. Timing not set right at timer. Make sure that the coils buzz just barely after top dead center when the spark rod is all the way up. If using a ford style timer you can use the little tool that sets it at 2-1/2 inches from the clamp bolt. New days and some others will require setting it with the top dead center method. Driving technique is a major overheating problem. Listen to the engine. "Be one with It". As a general rule spark advance is in proportion to engine speed. The faster the engine is turning the more advance spark you need. Even at idle you need some advance, all cars are different. When you lug down on hills you need a little less spark advance. But remember it is a little better to have too much as too little advance. Another problem could be a stopped up exhaust. Chipmunks and dirt dobbers love to live in there. You never said if your engine is new or old. If old there could be internal problems. In my case the cam bearings were wore and lose in the block by .020. They fit the cam perfect, but sloppy fit in block. It was allowing my cam to "walk" .020 of a inch. My front tappet clearance was .016. At operating temp this could reduce to maybe .012. So in theory at some times I could have a negative .008 clearance. That would keep my valves open or at least "bounce" them open at very strange times. This type of problem shows up worse at speed and at operating temp. Could also be a problem under a hard load. I am in the process of doing a quick valve job and fixing the worn block holes. Should have it going in about a week or so to see if it fixed my problem. My car would hand crank on mag, idle perfect, give me free starts most of the time but on longer test runs it overheated bad. good luck with your project
How did you make out with the mixture and spark?
All... Thanks for the advice. I richened the mixture and advanced the spark and it now runs MUCH cooler. Took it for a drive yesterday.
The engine is a fresh rebuild and the muffler is brand new.
So, in retrospect... It was probably a combination of both the spark and the mixture being too lean.
Once again ... Thanks so much for the kind help.