In the garage today installing a FP pinion bearing and have issues with the pinion nut. When I torque the nut to 70lb-ft the slot half covers the hole for the cotter key.
I don't think I can turn the nut another 1/4 turn to line up the next slot. I thought about getting a thin washer and installing behind nut and pinion gear to have the nut stop prior to the hole then when I torque it will line up.
Any suggestions would be helpful, thanks.
If you need to fit a washer between the nut and pinion gear, I would make sure it was a hardened steel one or a stainless steel.
Phillip, grind or file a little off the back of the nut.
Forget the cotter pin. Use "loctite" with the torque and problem solved!!!!
Ran down to the hardware store and bought a thin stainless washer. Installed nut but now the slot in the nut is not deep enough to let the cotter key slide through.
Will take it to work on Monday and mill the slot.
Phillip, why not just get rid of the washer and grind a little off the back of the nut?
I thought about grinding the back but I don't have the equipment to do it right. If I ground by hand there is a possibility that the back of the nut would not be parallel to the threads.
Milling the slots deeper is not an issue, just delays completing a task in one weekend.
A piece of sand paper on a flat surface (table saw) will work just fine, or the side of a grind stone. You only need to take a little off as you need to sneak up on it. I would suggest taking a piece of pipe that just goes over the nut and giving the pinion a smart wack to make sure it seated.
Actually it would take quite a bit to get to the next slot in the nut. At 70lbs-ft of torque the nut slot is over half past the hole in the shaft end. Which means the key will not drop in.
To fix I need to either turn the nut to the next slot (60 degrees) or back the nut up with a washer.
Not a big deal, just a minor issue to resolve. Thanks to all who commented.
You would be surprised how little it takes. It should be more like 80 anyway.
If the hole for the cotter pin is directly between two notches, then you have to turn the nut 1/12th of a turn to line up the hole. If the thread on the driveshaft is 20tpi (just guessing here), then one full turn of the nut moves the nut .050" on the shaft. You only need to turn the nut 1/12th of a turn to line up the hole, so you need to remove 1/12 of .050" which is only .004". Sand .004" off the bottom of the nut using a piece of coarse grit emery cloth on a flat surface. The hole will then line up at the proper torque.
Adam you take all the fun out of the discussion.... Of course you are correct with your clear logic, very good.
Ya what I said only Adam said it so much better!
The 80 should read 80 foot pounds.
The thread on the end of the shaft is 5/8 x 18 tpi. The easiest way to get one to fit is use a different nut. You should have two or three or four of them -- one will be just right. But taking a weenie bit off the back of the nut works.
If you have 2 or 3 or 4 of the nuts - NONE of them will be just right - See Murphy's first law with regard to interchangeable parts.
So with 18 TPI rather than 20 TPI you need to sand off .0046296296 to get 1/12th of a turn
I looked on my measurement chart and rulers but I can't find the weenie unit...now what do I do?
What Stan says is correct. Next, are you sure you are using a Ford nut? There are two styles of them.
OK, from a serious stand point. You can tighten that nut tighter if you do it right. If it strips you are lucky you found out now instead of later. Put the driveshaft in the vise so the nut is as close as you can get it to the vise. On the other side of the vise jaw put a pipe wrench on the driveshaft with the handle blocked against the bench. That will stop the twist you are getting when you try to tighten it more now. Get your 15 inch 15/16 ths wrench and hang your weight on the end of it. You will be amazed at how easily it will pull another 1/12th of a turn more so you can get the pin in. At least with 275 lbs of me on the end it does it. The original nuts are a lot better material than the repop ones which appears to be made out of some kind of soft steel instead of being a hardened nut. If you can't pull it doing that you might have to sand a dite off the back. (a dite is less than a weenie bit)
I have always just tightened it up to the next hole. Never not been able to do it. They rarely strip even with the 400 ft. lbs. or so of torque that Stan is describing. 275 multiplied by an 18 inch wrench = 400 ft. lbs. - (I think).
I hope I understand your measurements correctly, Is it...Two units of dite = one unit of weenie bit? Or is it Four units of dite = one weenie bit? And do two units units of weenie bit = an itsy bitsy?
A dite? That must be one of those Montana units. And where do units like a touch, smidge, or a skosh factor in?
I've heard that the weenie bit is very near to an RCH.
A dite is about a tenth of a weenie bit but is too small to measure. It can only be felt. A weenie bit is bigger than a skosh but takes more power than a touch, which can easily be overdone because a touch takes almost no power. A smidge can only be applied with a BFH and opposed to a dite which can be applied with a wrench, by hand or with a LBFH. A touch can only be applied by a helper who is moving something around so you can insert a bolt into a hole. It is the same as a (Hmmmmmm, this is a family forum) and can vary the same way in size. A touch can be in any direction it can be moved. EX: "It needs to come this way just a (touch)." Touch is correct depending on the audience within hearing distance at the moment.
Hope this helps.
Careful, this is a family forum!
And when everything is all together, check and make sure the drive shaft nut does not hit the differential...
Especially with a Ruckstell. More than once I have had phone calls where it was making noise after assembly. Usually what it is -- the cotter pin legs rubbing on the bell in the Ruckstell. Depending on the drive shaft and the bearing set up, how worn things are, etc, the end of the drive shaft can touch the bell under load and make a terrible racket -- or maybe just a weenie little noise. If the bearings are not all very tight and the holes in the carrier where the axles fit through tight to the bearing surface, the carrier can move just enough under load to pull the bell a bit closer to the end of the drive shaft and let it touch. I've had a couple bells over the years that were worn half way through from the end of the drive shaft hitting it.