A big thanks to all that helped. She is running like a swiss watch now. It turned out to be a few things. Number one problem was my fault. I have replaced many coils on cars but this was my first Positive ground car. And of course I had it hooked up backwards. I would never had known this if it wasn't for you all. Id still be burning up points trying to figure out what was wrong. As soon as I switched the wires around I had 6 volts going in and 2.9 coming out of the coil.
Problem number 2. The carburetor flooding was coming from a sticking choke but not sticking all the time.
And then problem number 3. The rough idol. Now this I chased for a while. Turned out to be an open vacuum line at the wiper motor. So now for the embarrassing point. Not only was there an open vacuum line at the wiper motor but someone had switched out the old Trico vacuum motor for a electric one and never sealed the line. I just assumed it was original. So I bought a two stage fuel/vacuum pump for nothing. I have a single stage if anyone has a use for a duel stage pump.
I still cant get the right rear brake hub off but Im at some point it will break free on its own. Iv got the axle nut backed off just enough to give it a little air clearance between the nut and the hub. I'll just keep hitting it with PB Blaster and someday I will see it loosened up. I do the same trick with a stuck Model T hub and it works every time. Then I can rebuild that brake cylinder. Again, Thanks for all the help on this.
Glad it all worked out for you! If you have a drum puller you could put it on the drum and tighten it a little bit to keep tension on the drum while the PB Blaster does its work.
Will, sometimes the brake shoes will groove the drum enough that short of breaking the drum, they will never come off. maybe try backing the shoes off as far as they will go by turning the star wheel. mopars then also had left and right hand thread lug nuts, but you probably know that.
The left side had been soaking in brake fluid for who knows how long from the leaking wheel cylinder and it slid off with just a slight pull from the puller. Iv pulled the right side brake shoes in tight so I know its not the shoes holding it. Iv even heated up the hub with my cutting torches and nothing. Maybe I'll get lucky and the wheel cylinder will start leaking and give it a good soaking from the inside for a couple of months. It will free up then.
Will, I remember I had a 50 plymouth and to get the rear hub off I jacked the other wheel up and used a hammer puller on the axle. A couple of blows with a lead hammer and the hub popped off.
My T70B Panzer garden tractor uses a plymouth rear axle.
It is a tapered axle and I made 2 "pullers" that I quickly ruined.I finally borrowed the right puller.Once I got it on there,and got brave and WACKED the "bleep" out of it,the hubs came off.
Tough to get off for sure.
Plymouths: Very are a simple car. If you use the dual diaphragm vacuum pump it will work going up a hill where as the single one will slow way down when you really need it.
You need one of those pullers that has arms that bolt to the hub with the wheel bolts. The arms hook on to a round plate that is threaded on a big fine thread center that has a hammer block on the end of it. You run the center up tight against the end of the axle and smack the hammer block with a bigger and bigger hammer until it pops the hub off the axle. I've never found anything else that would work.