How to Removal the Rear

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Model T Ford Forum: Forum 2013: How to Removal the Rear
Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Tom Smith on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 10:43 am:

A few weeks back I wrote to see what are the "Signs" of the Rear Axle/Transmission having a problem. I came to the conclusion it is best to overall the axle.One thing never touched much but still having some issues after repair the transmission.

I am looking to see after reading many helpful articles on repairing on here and books I have, I feel I can do the rebuild. But one thing not sure of, How do you safely remove it from the car without a lift?

Thanks,
Tom


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Norman T. Kling on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 11:08 am:

To remove the rear axle, you jack up the car and put jack stands under the frame just in front of where the radius rods cross under the frame. Remove the floorboard. Remove the rear wheels and the spring shackles. Disconnect the brake rods and if you have a Ruckstell disconnect the shifter rod. at the front by the universal joint. Remove the 4 bolts around the universal joint ball and the rear axle with driveshaft assembly should slide right back and out from under the car.

The transmission is much harder to remove. You must pull the engine and transmission as a unit.

To pull the engine first turn off the fuel valve and drain the oil and coolant. Remove the floorboard, the hood and the radiator. Note on some cars the rod connecting the firewall to the radiator you must remove the coil box first. Or at least the cover of the coil box. Remove the headlights and the hood sills. Disconnect the fuel line and the ignition wires. Depending on what year you have remove the coil box. Remove the steering column along with the spark and throttle rods. It is easier to remove the engine if you remove the manifolds first. Remove the timer cover and move it out of the way. If it is a 26-27 remove it with the coil box with the wires still attached.
Take out the two bolts holding the front mount cover and remove the two bolts on each side at the rear motor mounts to frame. Remove the 4 bolts around the universal joint ball and if you have a ruckstell remove the shifter. If you have rocky mountain brakes remove the rod connecting the equalizer to the pedal Remove the two nuts under the front radius rod ball. Put an eye in #3 spark plug hole and hang a chain lift from the roof of your garage, or use an engine lift. Pull the engine. You will need to raise the front up so that the pedals will go under the firewall. On some models it might be necessary to remove the firewall first.

To remove the transmission from the engine, you will need to first pull the hogs head from the transmission, then turn the engine upside down and pull off the crankcase. Then remove the 4 bolts holding the flywheel to the crankshaft and separate the flywheel from the engine. Set the flywheel on a bench with the magnets down and then you will need to pull the bolts around the driven plate and remove that plate. Then the clutch discs must be removed and you will need to take out a bolt from the clutch hub and use a puller on the hub. After the hub is removed you will need to remove the woodruff key and you can separate the drums from the rest of the transmission. There is also another gear inside the drums which will need to be pulled with a puller to separate the drums from each other.

This is a lot of work, and you need to be sure that the transmission really needs to be worked on before you pull it apart. Many noises which sound like they are in the transmission are really coming from the rear axle.

I think I covered everything you need to do to pull things apart. Use the books to find out how to fix it.

Norm


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By mike_black on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 11:08 am:

I don't know how to post a link to it, but, go to google and type in: rear end removal steve jelf, MTFCA

About the 3rd one down has pics he did in Nov 2010.


Top of pagePrevious messageNext messageBottom of page Link to this message  By Roger Karlsson, southern Sweden on Monday, October 07, 2013 - 04:23 pm:

Great explanation, Norm. Here's the thread Mike suggests: http://www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/118802/172263.html?1290824949

The books you need are sold here at MTFCA: http://modeltstore.myshopify.com/products/service-manuals

They have it on video too: http://modeltstore.myshopify.com/products/restoration-videos


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