Do any of you guys put rubber cushions between the pan ears and the frame when you install the engine onto the car?
Just my thoughts:
I've never heard of doing that. On one hand it seems to make some sense in that it would probably cut down a little on vibration and noise. On the other hand the way the ears sit on the chassis it would probably be only a short time before the ears cut through the rubber.
There is better stuff to use than rubber such as fiberglass wafer board but it must be thin or allingment will suffer.With the model T engine needing to be grounded you might also need a extra ground wire on non starter cars?? Bud.
When I put the engine back in my touring car I thought about that. What I was going to do was take a small piece of flat steel and put it in between the frame and engine mount with the rubber in the middle. I dont think it take very much to make it work. I may just try it in the spring.
My thought would be brake handle..? You would have an engine that is floating in rubber,and, when you pull the handle back to engage the clutch ,it wouldn't be a positive disengagment...I'm sure people with more savvy than I have.Will have more to say about it...Carl
The inside section of the pan arm contacts the frame.....whatever is put under the flat mount won't matter ????
If you do that you will cause the pan nose to bend. You will also misalign the clutch pawl. You will also not be able to install the horizontal motor mount bolt, stressing the arms in the corner.
In short, bad idea.
I don't think rubber cushions between the pan ears and the frame are a good idea. You would still have a solid bolt between the pan ears and frame.
More modern rubber engine mounts always have two metal plates with rubber sandwiched between, the the two plates are bolted to the frame and engine separately. There is no solid bolt between the engine and frame.
If you want a rubber mounted engine, buy a more modern auto.
10-4... Leave it alone. It's just something that l have been wondering about lately, as l line up my winter projects. I'm pulling the rear out to fix a leak among other things. Thanks.
I have used a strip of leather with a hole in center to be held by bolt.
Besides there is always a low spot where the arms rested anyway
Dave, to answer your question, yes some people have done this, including myself.
After restoring my Kamper I put it on my list of things to do after a friend had done it with good results. When the motor was out I altered the rear pan ears ( by lengthening them the thickness of the mount ) so that I could add them. This left the motor in its original place. The front engine mount is original.
I had hanging on the wall some Jaguar Mk11 front suspension mounts which looked ideal. I had to cut about 1/4" off the side of them so the bolt hole lined up with the pan hole. The mount has a 5/16" thread in it so I used a short bolt, the other side of the mount has two bolts which anchor it to the frame.
It made a noticeable difference to my car especially sound wise, but it has an enclosed body. In an open car it may not be so noticeable and depending on your actual motor (condition, modifications etc )
I too have done it. It worked fine. I also mounted the front mount on rubber. I did it similar to the way Peter did it, except my rubber mounts were in the middle of the frame and my pan ears were shorter (modified Apco bolt on ears). I then put non functional dummy arms on the top of the frame to hide everything. The whole setup was practically undetectable. I drove the car that way for about seven years. I then took the system off as it didn't seem to make that much difference and I don't really like my T's being modified.