On another thread, there was a discussion involving the performance of a "valve job" on a Model "T" engine. Part of the discussion stressed the importance of checking the camshaft for "abnormal wear". In giving some thought to how I would go about such an assessment of camshaft condition, it occurred to me that how I would do this just might not be anywhere near the BEST way to do this:
To show my ignorance, I would say that first of all, checking the camshaft in the block (I would think very difficult) would probably differ considerably from the more thorough method of checking camshaft condition outside of the block, and therefore, obviously free of anything that would prevent access to each and every cam lobe.
What I would probably do (not knowing any better) would be to visually examine and compare each lobe for obvious wear and then, to the best of my ability, depending on whether or not the camshaft is still in the engine block or not, I'd try to determine (eyeball?) if the profile of each cam lobe appears to be identical to all others. Besides doing this "visually", I would measure, as accurately as possible, the width and height of each cam lobe in two directions,....the height from heal to top of cam lobe, and again at 90 deg. to measure the width of the lobe at widest point. Again, pretty simple with an outside micrometer, (and/or good quality calipers) with camshaft removed from engine, but much more difficult (and perhaps not possible with each lobe) with camshaft still in engine block.
I am in hopes that I have posed a question here that will generate considerable discussion, and I realize that such discussion might include everyone from excellent engine builders, as well as shade tree mechanics like me! I guess my thought is that it might not even be possible for anyone but an expert engine builder to identify anything but the most obvious abnormal wear to a camshaft! (???) Anybody???
That's how I check them. I also look for bends and cracks.
You could get your lift with the cam still in the engine if you have a dial indicator. Zero it with the valve closed and see where it maxes out. Of course, adjusting to zero lash first will give you a more accurate result. What this WON'T do is tell you if they are all opening and closing at the same place.