Hello, I'm a newbie to this. My Model T has been converted to points, still 6 volt system (6volt battery). When I press on the starter switch I hear its getting power but the starter does not spin. If I take the starter off and apply power the bendix will kick out and spin. Any suggestions would greatly be appreciated, thanks, Clyde
Can you hand crank the engine? I mean so you can rule out a stuck or very tight engine.
Did the starter work fine before and suddenly quit?
Others know more about potential starter issues, I'm just narrowing down the problem area
Cables too small?
Have tried 3 batteries, bought a John Deere 850CCA, same problem. Has the correct cables. I have checked the ground but that possibly could be it. Is there a specific place or one area better than the other to place the ground? thanks
Hey Roger, you can hand crank the engine. I bought the truck this way so I don't know. When you press the starter switch you can hear its getting power (like the starter switch is clicking) but the bendix doesn't sound like it's kicking out. When the starter is removed and I jump it the starter works fine.
Digital Multimeters are dirt cheap at Harbor Fright, and accurate enough. You need to measure the voltage with both leads on the starter, and work your way back to the battery at every connection, including grounds.
If the voltage is near the same at the battery as at the starter, either the starter is bad, or the battery.
Let us know what you find.
thanks, I'll try that!
If it turns out to be the starter where do you all reccomend buying one from or having this one rebuilt? I appreciate yall's help.
Coilman up the road in Kentucky.
I ran into a problem using the starter. My mistake was painting the starter nice and black. Then I bolted it on and it didn't work.. the paint was not allowing the starter to ground and the bolts were issuing a little smoke from burning paint. Make sure the starter bolts are contacting the starter to complete the circuit.
I'm going with a poor ground too. But the starter button/switch needs checking also. (provided you can hand crank the engine of course).
thanks guys, I'll check that out.
an easy way to find a problem is to do a voltage drop test, voltmeter at battery, crank, write down voltage while cranking or attempting to, then volt meter at starter, B+ post and case , crank, write down results, if 1 volt or more difference , there is a problem in connections or cable, then to add a portable ground cable to starter and frame or even negative post on battery, then crank, if problem goes away and it works, Then you know your lacking ground
Many if not most slow-starter problems are related to the ground path for the electricity.
The three most susceptible areas are:
(1) The ground cable from the battery to the frame. Sometimes the cable is bad, but more likely is the connection between the cable and the frame. Make sure both parts (cable lug and frame) are clean and bright, and the bolt is tight.
(2) The ground path from the frame to the engine. The two places where the 'pan ears' sit on the frame provide a rather small area of contact, and there is often rust and grease present. Rather than trying to improve the contact there, it is best to run a cable from a good connection place on the frame (like one of the bolts on the hand brake lever quadrant) to the engine block (like at one of the 5th. main bolts).
(3) The connection between the starter body and the engine block. There can be paint on one or both surfaces, and that can inhibit or even stop current flow.
The second most susceptible place for voltage drop is the starter switch. When that becomes a problem, it's best to install a starter solenoid, and let the foot switch actuate the solenoid.
thanks Daryl and Peter as well as everyone else. I am going to check those out and I'll let you know.
Clyde ; Look at your starter terminal stud or he is good connected to the field assembly. 90 percent of the starter problems is a loose terminal stud.
Anthonie, it will be tomorrow before I can check it out but that may be it. I noticed that the stud seems to be almost pulling through like it was over tightened? thanks for the info