Working on getting my first start after 35 years. I have a Stromberg RF on the manifold, and need a little guidance on adjusting it for starting. It's clean, and relatively tight. Just need a proper starting point. Thanks for any and all help.
With the throttle arm at idle position, the main adjusting screw should be at two and a half turns from all the way in. The idle adjustment should be 1/2 turn out from all the way in.
Thanks Stan, I'll give that a try and let you know how it goes. Much appreciated.
Stan - I want to get this right, so I just need clarification (newbie here). In the photo below, do I have the adjusting screws labeled correctly, or are they reversed? Thanks again.
You are right. You are missing a critical part, the throttle arm with the various lift indentations the change the main jet adjustments based on speed. It will fit and run like it is but it won't work like it should. PM me with your address and I'll try to find a useable one and send it to you.
If you go to my web site www.strombergof.com you should be able to find several RF photos to show you what part I mean.
Thanks, Stan. The photo I used is one I had found on the web. It's not my actual carb. I know the part you're talking about, and it's correct on mine. I've been on your website several times to compare mine with the ones you have photos of, and all looks good. I'll be checking the carb adjustments this weekend, along with the distributor timing. Got a few coughs out of her on Monday, and hope to get her running this weekend. Wish I could find a manual or instruction book, or even just a diagram with parts ID. Thanks again for your help.
I've been able to get the engine started, but it will only run for 5 - 8 seconds and then quit. On another thread (First Start/Test Run), Mike Black said it sounded like fuel starvation.
I should note that this engine has a RAJO Model 30 (8 valve) head. With the larger valves in the RAJO, should the initial carb adjustments be opened-up more to provide the larger amount of fuel required to keep it running? If so, how much should they be? Thanks for the help.
What is the relationship between fuel tank level and carburetor bowl level? You may not have enough fuel pressure. I've run the Stromberg RF on my cars with stock Model T manifold and tank location. Seems to me the intake carb mount is pretty high for a Rajo head is it not?
You are not using a fuel filter are you?
Ed - No, not using a fuel filter. Straight from the container into the carb.
Royce - I attached a photo to show what my set-up is.
Continued thanks for helping me with this.
Is that the only carburetor you have? I would switch to a known good carburetor, maybe an Of, and if it runs, the issue is the carb internals. Otherwise you may be chasing your tail.
Yes, it's the only one I have. It was cleaned, checked, and tested on a stock T engine a few months ago to a local guy who works on A and T carbs. Reportedly ran well on the test. I'm thinking though that I need to get more fuel to the RAJO than a stock engine would need. Seems like it's using up the fuel in the bowl and then quitting. I just don't know enough about the carb to make the correct adjustments yet.
Try propping up the fuel line to get rid of the sag in the middle - fuel should go downhill all the way to the carb.
Or maybe there is no sag and it's an optical illusion due to the frontal view?
Try a different carburetor like Ed says to see if that is even the problem.
With a catch can under the drain, open the drain and see how much fuel it will flow in a minute. If there is an inlet problem into the carb it will quit flowing fairly soon. 5-8 seconds. It should flow plenty of fuel. Without having the carb here to check I can only guess but my guess is if it quits flowing the screen in the intake area is plugged. I'd throw the screen away. It is under the big plug where the fuel goes in. If it is flowing there OK, you need to check the passage into the main jet which can be accessed by pulling the small brass plugs on the side of the carb. Also remove the main jet and check it to make sure it isn't plugged. Cleaned or not, if the carb has fuel enough to start it and then won't keep it running it is running into some kind of flow restriction from the tank to the main orifice. While an RF would be one of my lower recommendations for an overhead for a couple reasons, it should start and run that engine in all speed ranges until you start loading it. Under load it may run out of capacity but overall, it will run a Rajo on a test stand very well. RF's are notorious for Aluminum corrosion in the internal passages. Every passage (in my experience) has to be very carefully cleaned - not just carb cleaner and blown out, but drilled -- the main feed jet (where the high speed needle screws into the bottom on the carb) has to be drilled to correct size due to the Aluminum corrosion and the holes in main jet ALL have to be cleaned with the correct sized drill.
The movement of the throttle also opens the jet and the rollers on the control bar have to be round so the movement is correct in order for the mixture to be correct at idle, higher speeds and power requirement. Once adjusted, they are great carbs and should run your Rajo well unless you decide you want more capacity for higher speeds and more power.
However, if it is working right, it will run just fine at all speeds and power requirements in this application -- on the test stand.
Bear in mind that this carb was the improved replacement for the million selling OF and Stromberg did not make a carb that would not run. They were the largest accessory carb manufacturer in the world at the time and very highly respected. The problem with RF's today is not that they are not good carbs, it is that they are hard to work on because of the brass parts being corroded into the Aluminum body and the bodies warping. However, the good ones are good and they run easily as well as OF's, probably better in some ways.
Thanks, Stan. I tested the flow, as you described, and it's good. Got plenty of gas out of the drain - nice round stream. Didn't show any signs of stopping until I screwed the plug back in. Also pulled the 3 brass plugs on the side and got gas flow from those also. Didn't pull the main jet, but that's next.
The local guy I mentioned is Joe Schiml. He has a good reputation here, and does work on A (and some T) carbs for guys in the area. He "cleaned all passages, re-seated the float shut-off, and set float level". He also tested it on a stock T engine, and noted it "runs best with gas/air mixture valve 1/4 turn open".
My grandfather installed the carb in 1927, and my dad ran it for many years as well. I have no doubt that it would run the car, but it's sounding more like it may need a complete rebuild to accomplish that. Thanks again for the advice.