I am installing a set of 2 wrench lifters. What is the correct pre adjustment to use. I have them set by bottoming out the bolt to shortest setting and then I backed them out by turning three flats of the bolt or aprox 1/2 turn. I then measured them and fine adjusted till all the same length. After I install the lifters in engine I will grind the valve stems to clearance on all lifters by the air gap method. Then I will reset the lifters by piston travel with the KRW gauge as I am using a used cam. I measured all the lobes of the cam and they are all within .004 of each other. My main question is did I leave enough bolt length to have enough to work with.
Depends how deep the valve seating surface is in relation to the block deck. Some are deeper/shallower than others. No doubt the new valve ends will have to be shortened to some extent. Piston position timing will give a even running engine, but all clearances will be different due to wear of used parts like crank journals and bearings.
I have always been a believer in setting valves by piston position and it still may have merit with a worn out cam. We did some dyno testing with a Ford cam that was worn about the same as you have and found that the engine made more torque (pulling power) on the low end and more HP by setting the valves at .010” on the intakes and .012” on the exhaust across the board.
Your mileage may very. Setting the valves by clearance gave us about 7% increase and that is about 1.5 HP more. Just food for thought.
Hey Mike, that's a neat set up w/the radiator sideways. Any fan?
We use a box fan. Wanted to be able to get to the front of the motor to change out cams with out having to pull the radiator. Also makes changing out motors faster.