The ten bolts that hold the ring gear in place is there a torque setting also what is the best way to safety wire them and when putting the housings back together would it be best to use the gasket set or some type of sealant in a tube? Thanks!!
I don't believe there are any real torque specs anywhere on a Model T - there are some general consensus on some things like about 50 ft-lbs for the head bolts. This is tough to describe but I torqued mine to 'tight'. For point of reference my scale goes from loose (head not touching), to finger-tight, to snug (tighter than you can make it with your fingers), to tight (firm but does not require excessive force to , to gorilla-ed (what moron did this? requires breaker bar), to ridiculous (holy crap, have to beat it off with hammer/apply heat/drill out), to stripped.
I have recently been inside 3 different rear ends and 2 had 1 wire that went all the way around through each of the bolts and 1 had the bolts wired together in pairs. I personally prefer wiring them in pairs so that's how I did mine.
For the housings there is a correct paper gasket to use, I used that plus a healthy dose of Permatex #2 and I have zero leaks.
I prefer to try and answer questions directly as most folks will answer your questions by saying "Buy the book!" which doesn't really help you right now. Having said that, if you are rebuilding a rear end, it is by far worth the time to just buy the Glen Chaffin rear end book and follow it to the letter. Takes out any and all guess work and when followed faithfully will result in an excellently rebuilt rear end.
Good advice from Seth on all points. I just finished my rear end and pretty much did the same except used Ultra Black for sealant. Apparently both work well.
Check the fit of the spider in the differential case. Mine was very sloppy so I replaced it. Almost all the wear was on the spider not the case (luckily).
BTW - hard to beat Fun projects pinion bearing kit!
I use Right Stuff Gasket Maker from Permatex for this application and it works very well.
Before continuing, I need to say I seal up the spool on both ends as well as the axle housings. Only thing I'd add to the good advice above is avoid using sealant that dries fast. If you make a mistake eg a steel washer slips off the pin, you have to undo everything. If it dries, even partially, you have a big job cleaning everything up before you try again. I've used Ultra Black a lot, but honestly, it too dries a bit too fast for me and I've paid the price more than a few times. I believe the Right Stuff is also fast drying although I've never tried it.
The Right Stuff and Ultra Black are really good sealants. Just seems like nothing on a T ever goes together as quickly as you think it should. That's why I like Permatex #2 - it stays wet forever and you can stick it together and take it apart a few times and it's still going to work well. If you fumble around some and then stick and take apart and restick either of the other two - it's time to just stop, clean everything completely and start over.
Here is a picture of my spool as taken out of the car. I plan to wire the same and use Loctite.
Different schools of thought on wiring up bolts, Ford Service shows wiring the ring gear bolts in pairs. Normally what you find and do. Main thing is to not have those bolts come loose.
Took this one apart and the bolts were wired similar but could be better technique. The bolts holding the spider case weren't Ford either, replaced that stud and nut with proper parts.
The gaskets used between the pinion bearing housing and diffy/torque tube are there as shims to set your ring gear/pinion play. While you could use a gasket between the two housings I don't think there was one if you are using a 15-16 housing, not to say you couldn't use one if you needed a bit more space because the setup was too tight (the gasket adds about .005). The same bolts in a Model A setup call for 35 foot pounds.
LOL the crazy thing is i can't remember witch axle goes on what side guess ill have to get the book back out
HAHAHA don't screw that up Robert, you'll have two speeds in reverse and one in forward. The ring gear goes on the DRIVER's side, same side as the handbrake lever and pedals.
Seth helped me out on the one in my car. Im with seth. wiring them two at a time seems to make better sense. that way if a wire brakes you still have 8 bolts safely wired in. We put quite a bit of torque on those bolts, but not excessive. as tight as you can get it with a standard ratchet and your hands. no hammers or bars or pipes allowed.
No Seth i'm at the build up stage of the spool where the spider is witch axle goes on what side or does it matter? Pictures please LOL!
Lots of good advice above. Yes, get the book. Yes, get the Fun Projects pinion bearing.
If you're as slow as I am, The Right Stuff is the wrong stuff because it sets up too fast. Good old Permatex #2 that's been around since FDR was prez is good for me.
I'm pretty sure Robert has the book. I think that is why he gave mine back.
The actual AXLES themselves....it doesn't matter which one goes where. Once you get the differential assembly built up and get ready to put it in a housing, make dang sure the ring gear is on the left side.
Everyone forgot to mention the 3 videos. Together with the book you will end up with an excellent project.
Hi Robert...looks like you're doing a 16 touring.
I'm in Oxford...Just about 2 hours from you. I'm 80% finished with my 16 touring. Happy to swap war stories!
Hal, Yes I got the book you told me to get and also I ordered the three videos by Fred Houston. But you no me i'm not very good at working on any kind of car. It's great to have a web site like this you can ask a question and get back tons of great info!! Thanks guys
The differential should look like this when you install it:
Thanks a lot for the pictures and all the advice you guys are always great help!! :-)