I was only one inch TOO tall when I drove my `12 into the garage to get it out of the rain....broke the bow (see photo) I need some advise on repair--looks like welding it would work--what about the wood, inside? I`m sure its been done--your expertise/advice appreciated---Thanks, Paul
There shouldn't be any wood where it is broke. Have it welded. Protect the body with welding blankets. Use heat sink putty or wet rags on it above the weld at a point before the wood starts.
Your top wasn't damaged in any other way?
I've done insurance replacements of entire tops, irons, bows, & side curtains for people who have driven their car thru partially open garage doors.
Generally if you have collector insurance, you pay your $50 deductible and take it to a professional shop for repair and most collector insurance generally won't hike your rate up until you have more than one or "frequent" claims.
No other damage---I do have insurance but that would take away the "fun" of fixing it....heres another photo--there is a piece of wood running the full length of the bow strut. Guess that it could be welded but it won`t have any internal structure, at the weld? Other ideas? thanks, Paul
Hi Paul. Not that you asked, but isn't your Ford logo upside down on your running board? Is the R.B. spun end-for-end? Sorry for the thread drift.
Great eye, Jerry! The running board IS reverse welded in---thats the way I got this unrestored car. Decided to keep it that way, for unrestored authenticity. Paul
Looks like it broke where the end casting meets the sheet metal. You need to remove the wood inside the sheet metal before welding.
Paul,there is a pretty good chance I have that bow. You've been looking for an excuse to come over anyway?317-679-6624
And some complain about this Forum....what a great group of people read it anyway!!
I had one break there. The fix I came up with was to drill into the cast end piece and thread for a 1/4 or larger bolt. Thread the hole and screwed in a 4 inch bolt. Inject epoxy into the other piece and slide the pieces together. I did it this way because I did not think the tubular part was strong enough due to rust to hold a good weld. Worked well and has held up.
Paul, if it were my car, I'd send the socket to John Boorinakis. He can re-tube it brand new using your broken piece's original castings. That thin stuff is mighty tough to weld. I tried it on my '14 and after a conversation with John I did what I have suggested to you. I couldn't be happier with the work. Once he had my sockets, he phoned and announced that one side was genuine Ford and the other a Western Auto style replacement. I would never have noticed, but thanks to John I now have all the correct pieces.
Or get it from Uncle Jack ;<)
Ditto what RV said. I had the same problem on my '13. John fixed the bow for $100 plus shipping.
Not being a smart @$$ but I thought the metal part of the top support was a top iron / top socket... the wood section was the bow...?
You are correct Steve - John only fixes top sockets.
As an owner of a 1926 coupe, I'm not at all familiar with the top bows and how they are constructed, but if that is a broken piece of wood inside the tubular bow, how about using a hardwood dowel (such as hickory) in the biggest diameter the wood will take. Drill both ends in the center of the wood at least an inch deep and take a 2" dowel, slather with Titebond yellow wood glue insert each end into the holes making sure the bow is in the precisely correct position to allow it to raise up and down as designed. If you are lucky, the drilled dowel holes will be so perfectly aligned so that the wood grains on each end will fit into the grains of the other piece when you slide the pieces together with the dowel inside. Try to drill the holes as true as possible without wallowing them out or the bond will not be as strong. For extra strength, instead of welding the steel tube, you can wrap a few layers of fiberglass cloth around the steel joint and apply fiberglass resin to it, then once cured, sand it down smooth, dress it out, then paint it black so the repair will be virtually invisible. This from someone who probably does not know what he's talking about, especially if the bow construction is not how I envision it. Oh well. Good luck. Jim Patrick
PS. Also, drill the holes a little deeper than needed to create a reservoir in the bottom, so that, if the dowel is snug in the hole, the glue that is pushed to the bottom of the hole won't cause an obstruction that will keep the dowel from going all the way in. That is why you see manufactured dowels with grooves going long ways around the dowel to allow the trapped glue to get out by squeezing up the sides of these grooves, but if you cut your own dowels from smooth stock, you won't have these grooves unless you cut the dowel the long way with a thin saw to make your own grooves to allow the trapped glue to escape from the bottom of the hole. Be sure to put glue on the dowel and in the hole and have a damp rag handy to wipe off the glue overflow. Once you are ready, work fast to get the glue in and the dowel seated in both holes and the ends together. If you delay, your glue could start to set up and the dowel could get stuck in the hole before you have it all the way seated. Be sure to put glue on the end grains of the original wood ends, as well and try to figure a way to hold the two halves tightly together until the glue sets up. If done right, it could be stronger than before. Jim Patrick
Paul. Let us know how the repair turn out and what you did. It may help others who run into the same dilemma. Jim Patrick
Heres my "fix' for now---Had a great visit with unca Jack yesterday---he had exactly the right piece. I`m sending out the old one for repair, although the suggestions from Jim Patrick and Dale Peterson are good (thanks!) paul
Try that photo again....
one more time?
Looks pretty good. Glad I could help. Your shop is a lot cleaner than mine!