I'm have a set of slightly rusted top irons that I'm going to paint. Remembering what my Dad used to do, I gave the whole unit a dose of Naval Jelly, following the directions on the bottle.
After the prescribed 15 minutes, not a lot of rust removal had occurred. I hosed the whole thing down (as directed) and also scrubbed it thoroughly with sponge and a bucket of clean water. The metal seemed Jelly-free.
I let it all dry off and - - now everything's covered with film of sticky white gunk. What is it? And how do I get rid of it?
I'm assuming I need to clean this all off before painting....
(I did do some Internet research on this, but there didn't seem to be an answer to this particular problem.)
I'd appreciate your input.
Thanks as ever,
Try hot water and some coarse steel wool rinsing with hot water often.
I'm a lacquer thinner guy myself, seems to take off all the crud, and of course, sometimes the paint with it if you're not careful, but sometimes that's what you want anyway, so you can re-do it with primer and then paint.
I've never had much luck with Naval Jelly. The pictures on the bottle always looked much better than anything I ever tried it on.
Rick, the white stuff you have left on your parts is Iron Phosphate that is left after the rust was converted from the Phosphoric acid in the Naval Jelly. It can be sanded off but is okay to paint over after removing all the loose powder but it needs to be dry first. If it is still sticky the jelly still needs to dry at 60 degrees or better for a day or so. Naval Jelly is not really made for more than a light surface rust.
There's a product called POR 15. POR stands for "Paint Over Rust". My observation, it's never a good idea to paint over rust. The end result is awful.
Take the time to remove rust entirely, using either a wire wheel, bead blasting, sand paper, or what ever works best for you.
From my first experience with it over 43 years ago, in 1970, I have never liked Naval Jelly. It is way too slow and weak and does not remove all of the rust. As one who does not like the mess, nor the way sandblasting roughens and sometimes distorts the surface of the original metal, I have been a big fan and proponent of muriatic acid for 43 years. Having used it for so long with a 100% success rate, I am very familiar with it and know how to get the most from it in the safest way, however, for those of you who have never used it, it can be very dangerous, so before using, research it thoroughly and if you decide to try it, use with extreme care and caution. Here is a good 2011 discussion on various rust removal products which include the pros and cons and fears and myths of muriatic acid. www.mtfca.com/discus/messages/179374/180985.html. Jim Patrick
Go get some evapo rust I have had nothing but great results
Evapo Rust at Tractor Supply $20.00 for a Gallon!
Royce, Ive had very good luck with POR 15. Its not a miracle cure but it does have its uses. It works very well in trunks inside doors, quarter panels. Its not meant to put over loose scaley rust. But in seams, and areas hard to get good and clean its great. In areas like quarter panels, seams, door bottoms, ect I pour some in there, use a foam brush to "squish" it into tight places, ect. I then take a air hose and carefully blow it into the cracks and tight areas. Im mostly using it as a rust preventive. Remember to wear gloves, old clothes, protect any areas you do not want it, and a face shield is nice. It will not come off unless it is immediately wiped clean with a rag and lacquer thinner. After it dries it is there forever. Nothing short of sandblasting or sanding it off will remove it. If you get it on you it just has to "wear off"