So I was out driving my T and a guy pulls me over. I figured it was going to be a typical "wow, gee, golly that sure is a neat car" type of gab session. Well this fellow turns out to be the oldest son who just inherited a 26 TT from his late father. He last drove it in 1957. His dad started to do some restoration, but didn't get to far. I visited him several days later and got a bit of the fliver fever myself. It is all there and should make a fine driver fairly soon. He wants to preserve the existing patina which I think is just great. I will lend him a hand as I can. Getting his coils up to par now while he does a once over on the wires. Carb is being rebuilt. First time I have been around a TT. Didn't realize how heavy duty they are compared to standard T.
Here is a link to what I hope will be a growing number of photos of the truck.
All you TT guys please look them over and share about what you see as I know nothing about the TT specifically.
Looks like the body is in good shape. The presence of a water pump suggests cooling system trouble. It may need a thorough clean-out, and maybe a recore. I'd keep the cotton bands as a museum piece. I wouldn't trust them to last long in use. Even if he uses cotton bands, I'd go with new ones.
The bands in the trans look like fairly new cotton and should do for getting going. May need replaced later. The radiator looks to be original round tube. Since he is not sure exactly what his dad did and didn't do, a Jelf style engine flush is probably a good idea as well as a radiator flush. We shall see. The water pump is not hooked up to the belt so I may vote for removal and see what it does without it.
I have rebuilt regular T rear ends but what tends to be wrong with these type? Is there the same thrust washer type issue? I assume there can be significant wear in the worm gear and it still function?
Just noticed the holes slightly ahead of the drivers door. Any idea what was mounted there?
Steve, the old bands were part of a box of "T stuff" from his fathers place. I agree they are fun to look at but should never taste the oil from inside a T. His dad was a "collector" of many things and there are more boxes of T parts so will be interesting to see what is in there that will be of use or of interest only as a collectible item.
The TT rear end is nothing like a regular T rear end. It's a very simple "ring and worm" set-up. There are no adjustments to it. You just bolt it together and you're good to go.
If it was heavily used and/or not properly lubricated it can have wear on the gear contact surfaces, but that's about all. Also, if there's rear end oil at the wheel bearings the inner seals would be bad. These are the ones just outboard of the inner axle bearing, not the inner seal of the outer bearing (does that make sense?).
And yes, there can be significant wear and it will continue to function.
The truck does not appear to have an auxiliary transmission, so it would be interesting to check and see which set of rear end gears it has. The low speed set are 7 1/4:1 and the high speed set are 5 1/16:1, which means the difference between a top speed of a little under 20 MPH vs. a top speed of around 25 MPH (at an acceptable engine RPM).
Good luck and let us know how things go!
H: Very nice TT. Im glad he wants to conserve it instead of restore it. I like them " left in there work clothes" but that is my personal opinion. I agree with the above about doing a radiator flush and a oil flush out. I would also remove the water pump. They are a good way to get grease in your radiator and clog it up. If his radiator looks gummed up from grease, I would flush it with Draino. I take a bucket of hot water (enough to fill the system) and add a can of crystal draino to it. Then pour it in the system and let sit 4 or more hours. There is useally some small flecks of aluminum or ?? left in bottom of bucket that you do not want to pour into radiator is the reason for pre-mix in bucket. Then flush it out with water. If there is signs of calcium or rust build-up I follow up with a solution of CLR (calcium/lime/rust/remover) and water at 1/2 and 1/2 rate. You can get it at Wal Mart. Then flush with water again. Ive been doing it for years with no harmfull effects to radiator. Just remember that if the radiator is junk and all that is holding it together is the rust and scale it will not help you. Also be carefull with the Draino solution and use gloves and eye protection. He may also want to check the windshield to make sure it is not plate glass. He needs safety glass in there if he is going to drive it. Nice C-Cab Hope he starts posting on the forum so we can keep up with the progress.
I LIKE it!
The holes on top of the doors are for the side curtain rods.
It has the original 26 top that is hard to find. Is this and early or late 26 Eric? What is the frame number between the running board brackets on the right top of the frame.
In a way I feel sorry for the poor guy, Little does he know that Model T's tend to multiply.
I'll side with Henry in that the TT rear is nothing like a regular T. I'll add that there is no good/easy way to inspect the inside. I would just make sure it's lubricated proper and run it. If in the future you need to work on it BEWARE they are HEAVY. Guys at the swap meets would laugh at me when I used TT housing halves to hold my easy-up down.
I see the new shells for rear axle bearings are not drilled or dimpled? Loaded question: what lube is best for this diff?
Will have to get a look at the number. I suspect later 26 by some features, but what do I know.
Why did Ford keep using the older sheet metal on the TT instead of the "improved" fenders, etc?
Steve, not those holes. I mean the ones in the side just below the windshield post, ahead of the door.
Also, what about oil lanterns on each side of the cab on this one when sold new?
Looks like a great truck !
Got the coils all dialed in today.
Donnie, the owner is a determined non-computer person, but I will post updates as able.
Anyone know if these are regular RMs or ? I just took a quick pic and didn't get to fondle them.
Those holes might have been for a side mounted hind view mirror. Holes in both sides ?
Lube would be modern equivalent to 600 wt. - that's what I run in my TT Ruckstell rear including the Warford. Some folks prefer 140 wt. in Ruckstells.
AC brand outside brakes most commonly used cables for actuation - could be AC.
Hi: The holes could also be for one of the cable operated swing up or down turn signal indicators. I have seen them mounted at top rear of cab, on the windshield post, ect. May have mounted it to cowl because of the roadster style windshield stanchons. ??
hers some pics of signal.
The pics are from a 1934 version but they were all about the same for earlier versions, other than the mounting
Those accessory brakes look more like AC brakes but it is hard to tell from the pictures.
Forgot to add that if this was an originally equipped electric starter rig, no sidelights would have came with it. If one so desired to add the standard oil sidelights simply attach the open car brackets on the windshield posts' lower two bolts.
Erich - I've enjoyed this thread very much and thank you for posting it.
That said, it sure would be nice to see more pictures of this nice TT.
Keith, I couldn't agree more. This gent lives a little outside of town and I have been working 12 hour shifts lately, but do plan to get out there soon with my real camera, not just the cell phone.
Thank you so far for the help and insights.
Steve, looks like the holes are only on driver side.
My guess on the extra holes would have been for a big mirror. As for "old" sheet metal use, Henry always used up what he had on hand. With the new "improved car" being so different, he had to use up the old fenders and firewalls and lights, etc. some way. Just my guess!
Also, I've known a lot of old T guys that were very knowledgeable, but, they grew up with T's that were not new, and already had overheating problems. When they started to restore T's in the 60's and 70's, they remembered that T's run hot, so they automatically put waterpumps on everything they built--even when they had new radiators! A waterpump is very often a sign that there is a radiator problem, however, on some of these restorations that were started long ago, the waterpump is now THE only cooling problem!
Back in the 1960s I put a water pump on a 26 coupe
cause we put a hot water heater in it. Prior to that we had this sterno finned heater. Yeah It stunk.
Those outside brakes look interesting. Can't determine the maker, although the equalizer shows that they are definitely cable operated. Rocky Mountains usually had their name on the brackets that attach to the backing plates.
The owner is up elk hunting so I will not be seeing this project for a while. Will look more closely at the brakes then.
O.K. now there are a few more images I will put on the link from above to flickr. Owner is still waiting for rebuilt carb, and warmer air temps too.
Those brakes are "Strong Hold" brand. I've got a set of those, and some extra parts. Also, the "C" opening of the cab has a extra horizonal/diagional brace,in the shape of a "Hat channel" I believe that is a late 26 or early 27 factory modification.
Very nice truck indeed.
I can't wait to see it run. Norm has health situation that make working in the cold not fun so it will not be a huge progress just yet. Soon enough though. I will keep posted as progress allows.
Make it run but don't do a thing to the body...or anything else....keep it *as is*.
Well. . . . you might want to find some rusty vicegrips to replace those bright shiny ones!