Just finished installing reassembled engine. I have an excessive oil leak coming from the crankshaft seal. The two felt seals were installed. A LOT of sealant was used. This is a new crankshaft. Have read a lot of previous discussion on how to fix this and that is my plan. Has anyone removed the lower felt seal and replaced it with the A model rope without lifting the engine from the pan? And what is the best way to knock out the pulley roll pin?
I'd say that you should get yourself one of these: http://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/411
Just clean both sides with some good carb cleaner or the like, and then put it in with plenty of silicone. You'll never have another leak there again!
I should have also mentioned how to knock out the pulley roll pin. Keep in mind that it's tapered. If you try to knock it out in the wrong direction, you'll get nowhere fast! Just uses a good punch (preferably a brass one that won't mushroom out the ends) and tap it out. Coincidentally, I found out that a long 1/4" socket extension works great, but don't tell OSHA that I said that
Cameron - Please explain how you get that seal installed without lifting the block from the pan as Dennis is asking.
Dennis : I have 100 percent results by glueing a modern seal on the outside of the engine. just take off the pulley and glue the seal with his back to the engine . Works for me .
I completely missed that part. The bock itself must be lifted just slightly out of the pan, but not completely. However, I'm not sure that a Model A rope seal can be installed without lifting the block from the pan as well while still ensuring a good seal. Still, this is just me theorizing as I've never had experience with them, so someone please chime in if I'm wrong.
The method that Anthonie described works like a charm. I've done it on two different engines with perfect results. Simple to do.
Did you modify the modern seal to look like the pictures or is it offered in that configuration?
Les ; I modify the seal to have a better glue contact .I use a small seal 5mm most of the time that is small enough to go between the pulley and the engine, if not then I turn about 1.5 mm off the pulley .
I've posted this fix for leaking oil before but some guys still love that oil wicking felt seal.
Toon has the right idea to permanently stop any oil leaking at the crankshaft. The only size that important is the ID. With a larger OD it allows more contact area, I cut all the way around to make it look like a daisy flower and makes a narrower profile, if it rubber seal rubs a bit on the pulley it probably won't hurt anything. Fit the daisy to the front of the block and timing cover and use some Right Stuff or ULTRA BLACK to glue it on. Make sure the surface is Clean!
You will notice that the seal is installed backwards. That is OK and I have not heard of any leaking with this method and almost no one can see it.
I have to say that Garrett Green, 2013 Montana 500 winner from the Orange County club told me about this cool fix.
I think the felt seals provided in the gasket sets are not the correct felt. It needs to be a much tighter, harder felt so that it does not compress so much. With the timing cover off, the felt in the pan can be punched down around the crankshaft to compress it much more. Then more felt can be added each side. An A model rope seal, left 1/8" too long each side can be used in the timing cover when re-installing it.
That said, Toon's modern seal is a much more simple fix.
Just for interest.
Allan from down under.