A recent thread about using O rings to seal around the pedal shafts prompted me to post these photos. I have used this method to stop oil leaks around the pedal shafts on aluminium housings.
The alloy housings wear considerably more than the cast iron later covers. I fit a thin walled bronze bush as pictured to take out the wear. The housings are reamed with adjustable reamers driven with a carpenter's brace. Once the holes are the right size, the bushes are installed. The tool in the reverse pedal hole is a fly cutter made from an old 5/8" bolt. The cutter is a piece of tool steel. The tool is driven by a speedbrace and socket.
The centre hole shows the seat cut in the housing to accept a wiping oil seal. The seal is installed in the brake shaft hole. This operation is all done with hand tools. The seals and the bushes are replaceable when worn. The advantage of this method is that there is no drag on the pedal shafts and because the seals are on the outside, the shafts stay well lubricated.
The second photo shows the bush left long on the outside of the cover, and a cup type welch plug fitted to stop oil leaks from the open end found on alloy covers.
My Haighs Chocolate van has had these seals for some 30 000km. I replaced the seals when I had a crack in the cover welded, not because it was needed, but because I could.
Hope this is of interest. I do need a source of National Federal Mogul oil seals no. 340387 if anyone can help. They are not presently available locally.
Allan from down under.
(Message edited by admin on November 04, 2013)
Allan -- I like your idea on how to deal with the clutch shaft leak. I hadn't come up with a good solution for that one. Thanks for posting yours.
I like the idea of using a "brace" to turn the tool. It make s a lot of sense to me.
Nice work. Doesen't show. Perfect solution.
That's pretty neat. Just looks like your picture is backwards since the pedals are on the wrong side (lol j/k).
I bet you could use a similar method of repairing cast iron hogsheads as well. The cutting and reaming may take a little longer, but it can be done with the proper tools. I will definitely store this idea in my brain to be lost when I need it. Good thing the forum has an archive and search function.
Thanks Allan for a great idea. I installed O rings but your seal installations are much better and don't require the squeeze between the cams and the housing.
The CAMS probably do need some lube once in a while though.
The long bushing with the welch plug works well in leaky model A or auxiliary transmission shift rods.
Sent you a PM.
Make sure you cut a "V"-shaped slit in the top of the rubber seal so just enough oil leaks out to lubricate the outside pedal cams.
If you don't the pedal becomes stiff... Unless you get in there with an oil can and lubricate the cam frequently, which most people seem to find more annoying than the oil leak!
I have been machining out the pedal shaft holes, installing bronze bushings, and installing new shafts with a clearance of about .002" and not installing any sort of seal. It provides just enough oil "leakage" to keep the external cams damp, but not enough to to leave more than an "occasional drop" on the ground.
The pedal shafts on the 1923 touring/pickup that I bought in June of this year don't leak, so I'm assuming the previous owner must have done the O-ring treatment. To make sure the cams had some lube, I sprayed them with white lithium grease, it has stayed put so far. I also sprayed the door hinges, brake rod clevis pins, and anything else where it looked like it might do some good.
Allan, a Google search just turned up these: http://www.amazon.com/National-Oil-Seals-340387-Seal/dp/B002NF749A
Many thanks Howard for the link. Bob Cascisa has sourced some for me and they are organised to go. Interesting they only have 5 left in stock. I hope that is not the end of them.
Allan from down under.